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How hot does your C3 run?

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Old 07-16-2005, 12:38 PM
  #41  
grayhook
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I doubt the guys with electric fans that say they have no highway cooling problem take their cars on long trips.
Not a long trip but i have drove it for about 45 min. on the hwy on one ride on a hot muggy 95º mississippi day and no problems.
i have a electric fan. i added the pace car spoiler and just cruise'n around town mine stays right on 180. on the hwy it drops to 170. and i have a 3.70 rear gear and run about 3800 rpm's at 70 mph.
Old 07-16-2005, 06:00 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Pauld
Around 190 all the time
Old 07-16-2005, 06:04 PM
  #43  
Corey_68
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
I doubt the guys with electric fans that say they have no highway cooling problem take their cars on long trips.
Yep it's all one big lie....
Old 07-16-2005, 06:19 PM
  #44  
rosslato
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I doubt the guys with electric fans that say they have no highway cooling problem take their cars on long trips.[/QUOTE]

florida and back to mich at least 6 trips
Old 07-16-2005, 09:07 PM
  #45  
DVNTST8
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Originally Posted by ruby76
runs 195 until I get over 50 mph, then 220-240

That's what mine does.
Old 07-16-2005, 09:30 PM
  #46  
turtlevette
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11

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Originally Posted by Corey_68
Yep it's all one big lie....
well if you at least had a few specks of dust on that car, we might believe you actually DRIVE it.

might
Old 07-16-2005, 09:47 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
these cars run hot on the highway because they just don't have enough frontal area.
They are bottom breathers, just like 70s-2000s Firebirds and Camaros (and 68 on up Vettes). If you have a chin spoiler that is intact, it forces all of the air that would normally go under the car up and into the radiator. If there is ANY damage to the chin spoiler, it will definitely effect the radiator temps at speed. I had an 82 Trans Am which had almost no grill area, and I got a 40 degree difference in radiator temps after installing a new GM chin spoiler after I broke one the previous winter.
Old 07-16-2005, 11:09 PM
  #48  
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160 t/stat it runs about that without the air on. With the air on it goes up to 190-200 on a 90o day.

If your car is running hot check all of the seals around the shroud and the support. These seals will make a big difference.
Old 07-17-2005, 01:17 AM
  #49  
1971corvette
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Originally Posted by Schmucker
160 with 180 thermostat, stock L48. Apparently I have to coolest running C3 ever. I know the gauge is accurate because I have a 190 thermostatic switch on my electric fan and the one time it kicked on (idling for 20 minutes) the gauge read 190.

According to my gage, I am running under 160 in Houston weather.
It is reading between the first 100deg. mark and second line on the
gage, third line is 210deg.
guess I'll have to check it some day.
I am using one 16" electric puller,fan turns on every so often.
Guess I will have to stuff some cardboard in front of my radiator to
make it run warmer.
Old 07-17-2005, 02:22 AM
  #50  
carl a
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i run at 195. have all new cooling parts, radiator,, all seals new lower dam ect
Old 07-17-2005, 02:33 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
these cars run hot on the highway because they just don't have enough frontal area.

I have tried the electric fan route and in my experience they are worthless. The factory installed a heavy duty fan clutch that must create a negative pressure area behind the radiator to cool properly. The heavy duty fan clutch works harder than standard fan clutches at highway speeds. I doubt the guys with electric fans that say they have no highway cooling problem take their cars on long trips.
I drive my car almost everyday in city traffic and I have taken a couple of long trips as well and the dual electric fans work like a charm.Its the best mod Ive done.
Old 07-17-2005, 11:11 AM
  #52  
turtlevette
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11

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i can only go on my own experience. I put dual pusher fans on my radiator to aid in cooling and when turned on while on the highway they do squat to help. The guage doesn't even move. A stiffer fan clutch aids greatly in highway cooling. Better yet a locked up fan clutch works the best on really hot days.


Sorry if i seem to doubt, but i have put over 400K miles on my car over a 25 year period so i trust my own experience over the vast majority here that put a few hundred miles on their car per year, don't take their car on long trips and basically dive like their grandmother.

Last edited by turtlevette; 07-17-2005 at 01:17 PM.
Old 07-17-2005, 06:51 PM
  #53  
0Tom@Dewitt
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
I put dual pusher fans on my radiator to aid in cooling and when turned on while on the highway they do squat to help.
No one recommends "pusher" type for cooling. All the fan companies recommend pullers now. When you drive on the highway, the ram air effect is probably twice the air (or more) than the fans could pump. So in this case, I think your fans were "blocking" the free air flow.

That's why spal doesn't even make a dual pusher! And their puller package has relief checks in the shroud to allow free flow at higher speeds.

You might have had a bad experience with dual "pushers" but I have hundreds of happy customers with dual "pullers".
Old 07-17-2005, 07:48 PM
  #54  
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11

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i've tried puller fans before too. Less effective than the mech fan.

So you think it will make that big a difference if i mount the fans on the other side of the radiator?

As far as making air move the little 1/16 hp electric motors just aint gonna move the air a mechinal fan being driven by a 300 hp motor will.
Old 07-19-2005, 09:23 AM
  #55  
JGreen
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I checked the temperature at the t-stat housing and at the neck on the radiator. the readings (per the infra-red thermometer) were around 170-180. My gage is reading around 220-230. My sending unit is in the head, between the number 1 and 3 cylinders, and acts as though it is getting transient heat from the exhaust, and causing the gage to read false readings. For example, I drove the car to work today (first time ever ) and the faster I went (higher RPM's) the higher the temp went. When I was stuck in traffic basically idleing, the temp came down. All the seals are in place and brand new, and the motor only has about 50-100 miles since rebuild. Also, there is no t-stat in.
Old 07-19-2005, 07:50 PM
  #56  
gh78
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and I learned today after mine over heated due to a blown hose, if it runs hot, turn head lights on to let air into radiator and it will drop temp. quick
Old 07-20-2005, 03:36 PM
  #57  
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180 rock solid....all temps....

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Old 07-20-2005, 08:33 PM
  #58  
0Tom@Dewitt
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
So you think it will make that big a difference if i mount the fans on the other side of the radiator?
No, I know it will! 90% of the auto companies used pullers and I think they know more than you and me put together. As far as THAT is to believe.

I think the thing you're missing with the mech vs. electric arguement is the fact machanical fans don't give you the air you need, when you need it. At idle and slow traffic, the mechanical fans are limited by the engine rpm, but with an electric fan you can have the air of going 60 mph when you're at a stop light.

Most cars don't even need an electric fan, if they are stock and everything is working right but will an electric fan provide more air at idle than a mechanical? Yes they will.
Old 07-20-2005, 09:23 PM
  #59  
R 73 454
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You did make sure to "burp" the coolant as you filled it, right? I leave the coolant sending units and stat out when filling the coolant. The first time I fired my 454 up NOT using this procedure I watched the plastic wire seperator melt before my eyes. An air pocket in the head can stay trapped a long time. My '73 454 with A/C (notoriously hot combination) runs around 190, however on a slow cruise night with lots of stoplights will keep my eye glued to temp guage, teakettle! What year is your car, I missed it if you stated it. (lot of replies!)
Old 07-20-2005, 09:37 PM
  #60  
PatsLs1vette
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mine runs 180 all day in traffic on a hot day goes to 190 then right back down.dual electric fans


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