Repairing stripped holes in various materials
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Repairing stripped holes in various materials
Looking for insight and how to repair various stripped holes. Case in point, the holes in the left and right dash panels that the gauge cluster screw into. All are completely stripped out. Also have issues in areas where screws right into fiberglass, and into sheet metal. Like sill plate screws, and door panel screws into sheet metal door frame. Obviously, I could always use a larger screw on sheet metal, but just curious if anyone has other ideas. Thanks for the feedback!
Scott
Scott
#2
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2019
Location: Canadian living in southern France
Posts: 321
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79 Posts
What I've done at times is to cut a short length of rubber vacuum hose, push it into the hole, almost flush, and then turn the screw, (with a drop of oil on it), into the hose. It will expand into the hole and grip pretty tightly.
Gauges and tail lights don't weigh much, so it usually works.
Gauges and tail lights don't weigh much, so it usually works.
#3
Race Director
They make #8 screws with a #6 head and so on.
Cracked mounting pods - I usually cut a piece of thin hobby brass tubing and LB Weld it to the outside of the pod, filling the hole, then drill the hole and put the screw back in.
Fill the hole with epoxy, coat the screw with mold release / wax/oil and insert it until the epoxy cures. Then take the screw out.
For thin tin/ metal you can solder a nut to a thin piece of brass and pop rivet it to the tin using 1/16 pop rivets, then use a machine screw with the same head. Or just use the brass / tin to cover the hole and redrill .
Creativity goes a long way, as does a really good tap and die set.
Cracked mounting pods - I usually cut a piece of thin hobby brass tubing and LB Weld it to the outside of the pod, filling the hole, then drill the hole and put the screw back in.
Fill the hole with epoxy, coat the screw with mold release / wax/oil and insert it until the epoxy cures. Then take the screw out.
For thin tin/ metal you can solder a nut to a thin piece of brass and pop rivet it to the tin using 1/16 pop rivets, then use a machine screw with the same head. Or just use the brass / tin to cover the hole and redrill .
Creativity goes a long way, as does a really good tap and die set.
#5
Race Director
There are a few old posts on this.
I have used carter pins in the holes, copper wire, Loctite, silicone, wood dowels,.
Nut Sets work well as do pop-rivet bases with the post removed - crazy / epoxy glued in the hole.
There is also an electric heating tool that puts a "staple" into the plastic.
Many ways to do a quick or Permanente repair.
I have used carter pins in the holes, copper wire, Loctite, silicone, wood dowels,.
Nut Sets work well as do pop-rivet bases with the post removed - crazy / epoxy glued in the hole.
There is also an electric heating tool that puts a "staple" into the plastic.
Many ways to do a quick or Permanente repair.
#6
1967 Pedal Car Champion
#7
I’ve used a piece of edger/weed whacker line. Single or even double (single piece folded over) put in the hole, turn the screw in and cut off the excess.
#8
Burning Brakes