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HP Rating for a L48 - 1975

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Old 09-04-2005, 05:41 PM
  #41  
dath
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Originally Posted by glen242
Sears timing light - the clamp on plastic inductor for the #1 wire slipped down near the headers = melted inductor clamp. Replacement cable from Sears = $45.

Hooked it up and kept the inductor clamp up near the distributor. Clamp starting melting again! Now I know the 383 puts out more heat than the 350 but WTF? BTW, the engine runs 195* water temperature at idle.

I would recommend a dial back light with a metal inductor clamp. My old non-dial back has a metal clamp and I never had a problem. Guess I'll use it, along with the damper, which is marked out to 60*.
Glen - My light doesn't have that problem. The clamp is plastic, but I've put it really close to my headers (not touching, that's just crazy talk there ) and have never had a problem. I have the slightly more expensive dial-back chrome one. I've been very happy with it no matter what, I agree, the dial-back is the way to go. It is very handy, not just for performance tuning, but also on cars that don't have nice timing marks (like my friend's Tercel that I helped with the other day). . .

-dath
Old 09-04-2005, 07:19 PM
  #42  
KALAWAY
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I hate this thread topic. I have a '75 L48. At least its a Vette.
Old 09-05-2005, 02:47 PM
  #43  
dath
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Kalaway - You're right, at least it's a Vette You can easily get more power out of it, especially if you don't have to smog it where you live. Putting on headers and a free flowing dual exhaust would give you a good bump up, especially with a little tuning of your HEI unit and the carb.

-dath
Old 09-05-2005, 03:40 PM
  #44  
The Green Hornet
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Originally Posted by dath
Kalaway - You're right, at least it's a Vette You can easily get more power out of it, especially if you don't have to smog it where you live. Putting on headers and a free flowing dual exhaust would give you a good bump up, especially with a little tuning of your HEI unit and the carb.

-dath



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