I'm building a C3 Subwoofer box and had a questions about different years
#21
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
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I've seen it mentioned here before, but not very often. What about mounting the amp to the vertical section of flooring behind the seat and in front of the storage compartment. Similar to how most people mount amps in regular cab trucks. Personally I'm not too hot on the idea of mounting my amp to the back wall under that big piece of glass. Mostly because my rear window isn't tinted and I don't have any plans to do so, and my rear cargo cover spring is broken.
#22
I built a single "false floor" for the back compartment on my 68 vert. It's about 2" high and slopes down in the back. Two boxes angle up on each side to enclose 2 6 X 9 Polks. It's made of plywood and fiberglass to match the contours.
A CD changer and amp is mounted in between the 6 X 9s.
I removed the original batter/storage/jack compartment doors and built 1 big door in the false floor. This has 3 8" subwoofers in it.
A small arm rest addition contains 2 4" coaxial speakers that sit flush between the seats.
I can now axctually hear my stereo over the sidepipes!
Gary
A CD changer and amp is mounted in between the 6 X 9s.
I removed the original batter/storage/jack compartment doors and built 1 big door in the false floor. This has 3 8" subwoofers in it.
A small arm rest addition contains 2 4" coaxial speakers that sit flush between the seats.
I can now axctually hear my stereo over the sidepipes!
Gary
#23
Drifting
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Location: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
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Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
I've seen it mentioned here before, but not very often. What about mounting the amp to the vertical section of flooring behind the seat and in front of the storage compartment.
Theres enough room to fit them in the storage compartment.
Not sure on the T-top problem but since I smooshed a nearly full sized box for 12"ers and my rag top why not have mounts on the box and floor so the tops snap in? Angled in any way they fit but they don't shift.
I still like the canvas top for the T-tops. Leave the tops at home where they're safe.
#24
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Got my kickpanels glassed today, All I done to this point was knock the high spots down. I still need to add filler and then smooth it out. The last thing to do is cover them in black vinyl to match my interior.
They stick out 1" deeper than stock and have a slight upward angle to them. But the 6.5" coaxials will be a nice addition over the factory size 4 x 6's speakers.
They stick out 1" deeper than stock and have a slight upward angle to them. But the 6.5" coaxials will be a nice addition over the factory size 4 x 6's speakers.
#25
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Ok, I've prototyped a 8" storage enclosure box, it actually fits pretty good (please excuse the mess, I haven't started working on my interior yet)
Specs:
.30 cubic feet ( this will be ok for small box subs)
3/4" mdf construction
Grey trunk carpet for durability
Terminal cup on the bottom for speaker hook up.
I would still add a grille over the sub for protection.
The storage trays and factory jack will need to be removed, The nice thing is it doesn't take up any extra room so you can have room for the t-tops and get better sound out of the stereo.
Specs:
.30 cubic feet ( this will be ok for small box subs)
3/4" mdf construction
Grey trunk carpet for durability
Terminal cup on the bottom for speaker hook up.
I would still add a grille over the sub for protection.
The storage trays and factory jack will need to be removed, The nice thing is it doesn't take up any extra room so you can have room for the t-tops and get better sound out of the stereo.
#27
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
Looks good, but how hard is it to access the battery if need be?
I put it up on ebay now, just do a search for "C3 Subwoofer enclosure 1968-1982" Starting bid is low.