Uh oh... it wasnt just U-joints
#1
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Uh oh... it wasnt just U-joints
Replaced the driveshaft U-joints and still getting a clunk on shift, vibration, grinding noise, and all kinds of bad stuff. Mechanic says $1500-2000 parts & labor for pretty much all of the rear end except the differential. Sound reasonable? He called to let me know before he spends an hour or two diagnosing.
Thanks guys. Not looking forward to dumping this kind of change.
Thanks guys. Not looking forward to dumping this kind of change.
#2
Le Mans Master
Check/replace the transmission mount and the differential mount, if the noise is still there then replace the halfshaft U-joints.... that's alltogether less than $100 in parts and you can do this job at home... piece of cake...
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Definitely do the halfshaft U-joints; not that expensive either.
My 80 was making a terrible sound and it appeared to be the rearend (I say that because I got under the rear and had someone shift it from park to drive and to reverse, etc, and noticed no movement on the halfshafts). Turned to be the inner right side U-joint, so I replaced all 4. I may still need the rearend replaced or rebuilt.
My 80 was making a terrible sound and it appeared to be the rearend (I say that because I got under the rear and had someone shift it from park to drive and to reverse, etc, and noticed no movement on the halfshafts). Turned to be the inner right side U-joint, so I replaced all 4. I may still need the rearend replaced or rebuilt.
#7
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Originally Posted by jaycjackson21
Replaced the driveshaft U-joints and still getting a clunk on shift, vibration, grinding noise, and all kinds of bad stuff. Mechanic says $1500-2000 parts & labor for pretty much all of the rear end except the differential. Sound reasonable? He called to let me know before he spends an hour or two diagnosing.
Thanks guys. Not looking forward to dumping this kind of change.
Thanks guys. Not looking forward to dumping this kind of change.
#8
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Originally Posted by 70BBvert
Why would you agree to spend $1500 - $2000 instead of diagnosing the problem?
#10
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Originally Posted by jlaw68
if you don't want to diagnos it yourself then it would be worth the hour of labor to have him tell you exactly what it is.
#12
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by big_G
...BTW, I probably can't do what most of you guys do for a living.....
GUSTO
#15
Tech Contributor
the price depends on just what work is going to be done. I just took in a 69 differential, rear bearings, and 1/2 shaft. Car looked good, owner take care of it,etc
First thing I did today was cut out the old jonts with a torch. When I took a look I found that one of the 1/2 shaft yokes is bad. At some time in the past the outer joint cap must have blew out because the inner yoke was worn down a good 1/8" where the joint neck was hitting. I'm guessing that instead of replacing the shaft Bubba just installed a new joint,charged the guy for a shaft and that's how's it's been since( a long time looking at it). I haven't got into the T arms or diff yet. I gave a price for all the work,based on rebuildable cores, needless to say the price goes up.
Look over the quote, it may be reasonable or it maybe very high. Open any vendor catalog and you'll get an idea on part cost- retail cost.
Gary
First thing I did today was cut out the old jonts with a torch. When I took a look I found that one of the 1/2 shaft yokes is bad. At some time in the past the outer joint cap must have blew out because the inner yoke was worn down a good 1/8" where the joint neck was hitting. I'm guessing that instead of replacing the shaft Bubba just installed a new joint,charged the guy for a shaft and that's how's it's been since( a long time looking at it). I haven't got into the T arms or diff yet. I gave a price for all the work,based on rebuildable cores, needless to say the price goes up.
Look over the quote, it may be reasonable or it maybe very high. Open any vendor catalog and you'll get an idea on part cost- retail cost.
Gary
#16
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You could go to http://www.dragvette.com/index.html to get new half shafts complete with solid u-joints for $218. That's my plan and I'm told they just bolt in. Seems like a logical alternative to having the original shafts rebuilt.
#19
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by jaycjackson21
I was lazy - half-shaft U-joints and Im in good shape now. $400 parts and labor.
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
Good news that the problem is fixed - $400 is not too bad
I di however notice that on your profile photo the rear is sitting very high. Do you have a re-arched leaf spring ?? I'd get some 8" bolts and get the rear down, at the current height the half shafts are angled (they should be almost horizontal when the weight of the car is on the wheels) - if they are angled too much then your U-joints wear very very fast.
#20
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
Good news that the problem is fixed - $400 is not too bad
I di however notice that on your profile photo the rear is sitting very high. Do you have a re-arched leaf spring ?? I'd get some 8" bolts and get the rear down, at the current height the half shafts are angled (they should be almost horizontal when the weight of the car is on the wheels) - if they are angled too much then your U-joints wear very very fast.
I di however notice that on your profile photo the rear is sitting very high. Do you have a re-arched leaf spring ?? I'd get some 8" bolts and get the rear down, at the current height the half shafts are angled (they should be almost horizontal when the weight of the car is on the wheels) - if they are angled too much then your U-joints wear very very fast.