bobs77vet

i have a Lincoln Migpak 125 this is a fluxcored 125v set up with 4 heat settings and 4 speed settings something similar to this set up, except on mine if you want to upgrade to the Gas set up you need to buy the regulators etc...the upgrade is about $100

http://www.welders-direct.com/mercha...t_Code=K1873-1


i have a hot rod project that requires me to probably box the frame, weld in cross members and the front IFS. i have an arc welder and oxy/acteylene set up also and I have 240 volts in the garage ...heres the question should i upgrade my Lincoln Migpak 125 or simply move up to this welder?

Http://www.welders-direct.com/mercha...t_Code=K1642-3

the difference between the two choices is about $600. seems like using the Stick welder of boxing the frame or welding inthe IFS is kind of passe these days...any thoughts? Or should i be looking at something else? thanks bob


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markdtn

I would upgrade to a better MIG. Look on Ebay at seller "weldingsuppliesatioc" or similar. Theyt have great prices. I bought a Hobart Handler 180 for around $575 delivered last year. Then you need a bottle-around $100.

Twin_Turbo

not necessarily a bigger welder but i would get one with more control, stepless wire speed is a must if you ask me.

RobRace10

Upgrade to a 220 Volt mig. I have a Miller 210 with Spool gun and it is so much better than my old 110 volt machine even with gas. That was probably similiar to what you have. You want to make sure you can get enough heat and penitration and the small machines just don't have the kick.

Kenny Bonnell

If all you can afford is to upgrade, do it, the gas will make a much cleaner weld. However, you still only have a 120 welder, and for the welding you want to do to a street rod project you should ahve a 220 volt welder, it will provide the needed heat for good penitration for the frame welding. About 8 years ago I built a 53 Chevy pickup, and put a Nova subframe under it and chopped the top, and I started with a small welder as you mentioned with the gas kit, I ended up buying a nice 220 volt welder and have never regretted it. You want any chassis welding to be nice and strong, so go for the bigger welder.

bobs77vet

i remember many years ago.. 18 to be exact the Mig welder I learned on had a "pulse" setting in addition to the heat setting and wire control ....do they still make welders with this setting or is that not an option any more?

68/70Vette

I'm trying to learn about welders. I looked at the performance specs of the above two welders. The specs say that they can weld 0.023 to 0.035 inches of Stainless and 0.035 inches of Aluminum.

I don't understand. Sheets of SS or Aluminum that are 0.035 inches thick are basically just thick foil. In otherwords being able to weld 0.035 inches of SS or AL seems almost useless since almost nothing is that thin.

If you wanted to weld aluminum sheets of more common thicknesses, what would be the first starting point? Thanks

Twin_Turbo

yes, pulsemig...you learned on an expensive machine but actually easier to weld with (if you have a modern machine that automatically adjusts the settings to your wire speed and heat settings, the odler machines where you had to do it all by hand are a pita..almost confusing and taking intricate knowledge of what you're welding and why you set the settings at what they must be set at). It's a non contact transfer type (sort of spray transfer) where the pulse melts a droplet of the filler wire and then the appropriate current pushes the droplet across the arc into the puddle, this wat the wire never atually touches the puddle, making nicer welds at lower settings (it's done at lower setting than actual spray transfer) and giving much less spatter. Pulsemig, unlike normal mig welding is NOT a constant voltage welding process, there's a sort of cooling down period after the droplet has been transferred, this makes it very suitable for welding on thinner metals

Eddie 70

We have one or two of these at work. I have not used one yet but the guys that do use them are well pleased with them.
Miller MAXSTAR 150 STL

chevy69

Hi Bob, I had shown you some pics of this same work I did on my '47 Ford PU and my '38 Dodge biz coupe on your "suspension for hot rods" thread. All of this work was done with my Millermatic 175. It's a great machine, and will set you back about $675 incl. shipping. I bought mine on eBay and love it. You will also have to buy a gas bottle from a local supplier the first time you buy your shielding gas. Boy, that welder would sure look cool under you Christmas tree

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...llermatic_175/

bobs77vet

thanks guys, i looked at my Lincoln tonight and this is what it is Lincoln mig pak 100 and these are the ratings:
rated DC output 88amps 20% 18 volts
CSA rated DC output 62 amps 20% 20 volts
rated ACinput 115 volt 1 phase 20 amps
CSA 115 volt 1 phase 15 amps.

it does have a variable feed speed control and 4 heat settings

whats CSA mean?

MotorHead

Canadian Standards Association

I have the same MIg Welder, where and how much to upgrade to gas ?

bobs77vet

my welding store says like $100 plus the tank....Chevy69 has done what i'm about to do on my hotrod. i just wonder if the Lincoln migpak100 has the ability to penetrate and create really good welds on the structural frame parts.....don't want to be skimping in that area....i love this welder though, and it has been great.

bobs77vet

go back and look at that again....look at the "bullet" just before that....i think they are talking about the "MIG wire size" not the thickness it can weld. and they are talking about aluminum mig wire and SS mig wire, its a poorly constructed sentence.

read this advertisement it clears that up

http://cgi.ebay.com/LINCOLN-SP175T-M...QQcmdZViewItem

68/70Vette

Thanks for the reply. Now, going back it's pretty obvious that the weld thickness specifications relate to the thickness of the weld wire not the material to be welded. For someone like me who's unfamialiar with welding machine specifications it was not initially that obvious.

bobs77vet

so what are you going to buy?

68/70Vette

I've looked at the websites selling welders. They don't say which brands are made in North America. Hobart, Lincoln, Miller, etc. Maybe I'm being a little too fussy but I'd prefer to not buy something made in Taiwan or China. Something about $750 to about $1200 would be about my speed. Hobart has a good ring. I grew up in Dayton Ohio and Hobart's manufacturing facility was in Troy Ohio just a little North of Dayton. But anyhow, any comments abot the best quality of welders???

Thanks

bobs77vet

i have been happy with my Lincoln, but hobart, miller are al good units. i may stop by the local welding shop tomorrow and see what they have.

J. Swisher

Miller and Hobart are the exact same brand with the exception of Miller being the heavier duty of the two. If you look the two brands appear nearly identical with the big difference being the wire feed mechanisms, the weight of the machine (heavier innards that mean better duty cycles), and different guns. Bought a miller 210 and cant be happier, makes novice welders even lay down good beads, and plenty of power not to have to worry about penetration for work like what you are doing. Also has the option to add a spoolgun for welding aluminum. This is one of those things that I would seriously consider buying local though. Picked mine up from the local Airgas for less than I could have bought it on ebay, and got good deals on wire, gas, and a tank. Best part is I got to try it before I actually bought it. Also have the benefit that if you do have questions that you can talk to somebody face to face if you do have questions or have problems. just something to think about. also check here for mind boggling information about welding http://www.weldingweb.com/

bobs77vet

thanks J...any body using arc welders for frame repairs any more?