Which bellhousing to use?
#1
Pro
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Location: Ontario
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Which bellhousing to use?
I've got the engine out of my '69 coupe and am stripping and repainting it.
While out I plan on replacing the clutch. This motor appears to be an ex-truck engine acording to the suffix codes. The bellhousing on the engine is a big heavy steel unit.
Are there any benefits, aside from the obvious weight reduction, to swapping the steel bellhousing out for an aluminum one?
TIA
Dave
While out I plan on replacing the clutch. This motor appears to be an ex-truck engine acording to the suffix codes. The bellhousing on the engine is a big heavy steel unit.
Are there any benefits, aside from the obvious weight reduction, to swapping the steel bellhousing out for an aluminum one?
TIA
Dave
#2
I unloaded my overweight Lakewood for a polished aluminum Lakewood. It looks very nice and is much lighter. Of course, it is not blowproof and that is what you give up when going to aluminum. From what I have been told, the newer billet flywheels are much less likely to explode. I also do not make a practice out of frame bending holeshots like some others do. If you are going to drag race the car, I believe that a blowproof bellhousing is a requirement.
Last edited by Grutzy; 12-25-2005 at 08:48 AM.
#3
Race Director
I am running a Lakewood blow sheild on mine. Yes the steel flywheels are less likely to explode but the clutch disc can disentigrate at any time and take the pressure plate with it. For normal driving an aluminum is fine. If you do any drag racing or high rpm shifting a blow sheild is cheap nsurance. My aluminum belhousing is tucked neatly under the workbench right now.