chevy69

The car continues to come apart. I almost have the rear end out, but can't seem to budge the rear end crossmember (bolts are out). I've heard heating up the bushings will help loosen it up. The motor is in the shop and hopefully I'll hear in the next day or two how it looks inside. The frame is the second frame I got out of CA and has been checked, blasted and powder coated. The upper and lower A-arms are out for sandblasting/powder coating now. Soon I will start rebuilding the chassis and throw a local pizza and beer body moving party

Scottys78

Hvymtlc5

shakin head ...soooo much work

71rdster

You're doing great. Looks like your frame is in really nice condition. Try some penetrating oil around the rear cross member bushings for a day or two, then try using a large gear puller to separate the cross member from the frame. Search the archives. I know there are pictures of someone using that technique. GL

Orville

Maine Vette

Great job! You're right, that rear crossmember can be a b*tch! I backed the bolts out about 1/4", shielded the crossmember with a piece of wood, and used a BFH to drive it free. Leaving the bolts in prevented the crossmember from going crashing to the floor.

Your photos are giving me flashbacks of mine several months ago!

chevy69

I have a BFH, and I will use it

fotyfobravo

That is a LOT of work.....I have never gone into a Vette that far, but did a similar job on my 70 GMC Pickup....still got a bit to go. Good Luck !

chevy69

your truck is lookin' good

VetteNut72

Good work

I know what you are going through as I am just getting ready to put the body back on my 4 year frame off.

I live in Tucson if you need any help or advice with your project ( believe you me, I've been there ) look me up.

Craig

1981 corvette

Looks great!!!!!! Keep the pics a coming.

chevy69

Wow craig, that looks great! I hope my chassis looks that nice, although I sure hope it doesn't take me 4 years

I just "got the call" from the shop on my motor, and it's not real pretty inside. Looks like $3300 for a total rebuild. The crank is salvageable, but the heads (valves) are shot, the cylinders have rust inside from sitting so long and will need to be bored. There is a whole host of new parts that need to be replaced. I wonder if I shouldn't just "moth ball" the original parts and go with a crate engine? I may start a separate post to explore that option.

markdtn

I have successfully used a "pickle fork" tie rod tool to separate the crossmember from the frame. Especially if it is off the body.

BKbroiler

Forum member EdT is the guy who posts the pics showing the puller on the diff crossmember. That technique works.