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I am looking at a pretty nice 1982. The only significant thing I can find wrong with the interior is a crack (about 3 inches long) on the passenger side of the dash.
Can anyone give me a feel for the cost and trouble of replacing the dash cover on an 82? I know that sometimes they can be repaired, but I have been told the repair option usually doesn't last.
Might cost a few bills for a nice new one, and a few hours to replace the old one. You'll need to remove the screws the hold the knee pads to the upper dash, the console screws, and the A-pillar trim.
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
The dash is not very hard to pull and replace. There are two options for replacement. A new dash pad $400-500 or the dash cap $100. The cap is a piece of sh**. I have one, trust me, buy the dash.
The dash is not very hard to pull and replace. There are two options for replacement. A new dash pad $400-500 or the dash cap $100. The cap is a piece of sh**. I have one, trust me, buy the dash.
There is a third option, the dash overlay - I've had one on my 81 since 1999 and it looks just as good, if not better, than an original dash would look. Note though that I also have a black interior, so for any other color you would have to paint it.
That is the second option I was referring to. Mine is crap.
Are you sure you're referring to the same one? I've seen one that's specifically called a cap that was just the top piece, not the entire overlay. I don't have any experience with those, but I've installed two of the type I'm referring to and liked them both. The trick is to let it sit in the hot sun for a while before working with it so it softens up and goes into place. Looks as good as original when it's done right.
I just replaced a dash in my '81 about a month ago. The original had two long cracks. Each starting from the top speaker cavity, down the front to the tach gauge and the glove box. Overall, installation wasn't that hard.
But, one thing I discovered was that it would have been a lot easier to do the installation without the windshield in place. But then, that would have created a whole other problem. Suffice it to say that with the windshield in place, it's a bit tight to do the install. Because of the rake and taper of the windshield and A-pillar, you'll have to do some gentle maneuvering to make the new dash drop in place undamaged.
With 20/20 hindsight, I would have seriously considered buying a brand new replacement rather than picking up a used original. (My "new" old replacement was just brittle enough to crack upon installation. So I ended up with a "new" dash that "only" had one noticeable crack instead of the two in the original...)
Heck, for what it cost me to get a used dash, I even started to wonder if I should've just popped for the $100+ to get the dash cap that Ron R. was referring to, and just carefully install it over the original.
Yes we are talking about the same one. Kind of like when I said in my second post that we were talking about the same part.
The added material made the fit of the gauges, switches and glovebox door fit terrible.
You did read the instructions, right? It's not a just 'stick it on' installation, you have to shave a little off the glove box door and there is some drilling and prep. When you do everything up right it's a great fit and a great looking dash. I've done a couple of them and posted a full walkthrough in another thread once, there is some work to it but not nearly as much as a new dash.
I think I need to remove my dash this weekend to get to a couple of bolts that humans shouldnt have to get into that position to get to.
So what am I actually looking at having to do? The guage clusters have already been removed.
It's not that hard. Remove all the screws that hold the upper dash and the knee pads together. Then remove the A-pillar trim. Then, pulling up ever so gently in the middle of the dash get it to flex up so the sides are still pointing downward, and slide it up and out. It will come out easily if the pad is bowed slightly in the middle.
Note: The defrost vent duct may catch so when you lift up look under and get it clear before you really pull.
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Durango - that is for the early 3 piece dash. pbcanney has a '81 so the directions will be a little different.
There are two screws in each door jamb. Remove the center gauges and the glove box liner. Loosen the speedo cluster. There are two brackets that are attached to the underside of the top dash pad. One is above the glove box the other on top of the speedo cluster. They need to be unbolted and the dash will fall loose. Be ready for it because you need to make sure the ears of the dash don't support the weight. Once loose, work it out slowly. Biggest tip I can offer is to remove your steering wheel so you don't have to try to work around it. It's easy to take off, it's only screwed on. You can also remove the A-pillar trim to make it a little easier.
To put the dash back on, re-attach the brackets to the dash pad that you removed earlier. There are brackets attached to the car below the windshield. When you get the dash in place you push forward and the brackets on the dash clip onto the ones on the car. The rest is just sticking screws and parts in the places you took them from.
When I bought my 79 I found a guy who had a good replacement for my cracked dash, and when I bought it he offered to install it for $100. Everyone I talked to said I'd be crazy not to pay him to do it. BTW, I was also having the windsheild replaced around that time and asked they guy did he want to put the dash in without the windshield, and he said it didn't matter to him, so no first hand experience here, but instead what I was told.