Rookie's first attempt at a restoration...
#181
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: Minnesota in the summer, Las Vegas in the winter
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Jeremy
I think you're okay on the lock washers. I would not change them out.
Question: Will you have this beast on the road this coming summer? What are your plans for a completion date?
I think you're okay on the lock washers. I would not change them out.
Question: Will you have this beast on the road this coming summer? What are your plans for a completion date?
#182
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Well, I think I'll have the chassis completed by the time summer rolls around...then I have an entire body to finish. I finished high school last year and took a year off to work this year - so I'll be going to university this September. Honestly, I don't think it will be done before August...there is a ton of bodywork to do. It should be done by mid 2009 if everything goes as planned.
#183
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I am not looking forward to this differential rebuild, I am actually quite nervous. Even with all the help from Gary and all the other forum members, I can't help but imagine that something horribly bad is going to go wrong. I want to take my time on it...taking it step by step. My father doesn't have the patience I have - I have a ton of weight on my shoulders. I feel like crap when I don't work up to his pace...he gets mad at me for not listening to him. I don't know what to think anymore. We're working towards the same goal, we just have different ways of getting there.
#188
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Yeah, it did get the juices flowing - I haven't had anything to work on because my frame isn't done yet...probably sometime this week. I ran outside after I got it and polished it as per Gary's posi tuning paper - that's how excited I was . Here is what it looks like now...nice and smooth...
I still got a bit of polishing to do, but only odds and ends. I can't wait to get my parts in the mail, then the I can actually assemble the unit.
I still got a bit of polishing to do, but only odds and ends. I can't wait to get my parts in the mail, then the I can actually assemble the unit.
#189
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Okay, its done. I put in another hour last night to put the finishing touches on it...no more cast edges - polished to perfection using a carbide burr, die grinder, sandpaper and an air tool that uses round scotchbrite pads...or as least that's what I think they are.
It doesn't look much different than the pictures above, but trust me - its much smoother.
It doesn't look much different than the pictures above, but trust me - its much smoother.
#191
Advanced
Member Since: Jun 2007
Location: Hatfield/Williamsport Pa
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Awesome. Glad to hear your frame is done. I just read most of the posts through the 10 pages. I'd like to do a similar rebuild on a solid bumper C3 in the next couple years. I'm 20 year old. Looks like your doing this right and too the best ability. Congrats and I can't wait to see the frame.
#192
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for the compliment. I just walked across the street from where I work (the powdercoater's is literally a 20 foot walk away). I almost crapped my pants when I saw how good it looks So damn happy right now
#195
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Springfield MO
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St. Jude Donor '07
The basic reason why I don't recommend the flex coupling rebuild "kits" is that the kits come supplied with common bolts. You should NEVER make a bolted connection through rubber. You must have shoulder bolts so that you make a metal to metal bolted connection. You are steering your car through this part!
In many cased the stop pins that are supplied in the kits do not match the size or shape of the original stop pins that were hot riveted in place on the original equipment flex coupling.
Also the "kits" do not supply a method of conducting electrical current from one side to the other. All of the GM/Saginaw flex couplings either have a ground wire or strap that is wrapped around the inside of the rubber disc or the GM disc itself has a fine wire mesh molded into the face of the disc.
BTW, I have written about a dozen letters to various suppliers outlining my concerns about the above mentioned kits. A few wrote back that they would contact their supplier of the kits. None have contacted me to indicate that the parts in the kits have been corrected.
Thanks for letting me vent!
Merry Christmas,
Jim
In many cased the stop pins that are supplied in the kits do not match the size or shape of the original stop pins that were hot riveted in place on the original equipment flex coupling.
Also the "kits" do not supply a method of conducting electrical current from one side to the other. All of the GM/Saginaw flex couplings either have a ground wire or strap that is wrapped around the inside of the rubber disc or the GM disc itself has a fine wire mesh molded into the face of the disc.
BTW, I have written about a dozen letters to various suppliers outlining my concerns about the above mentioned kits. A few wrote back that they would contact their supplier of the kits. None have contacted me to indicate that the parts in the kits have been corrected.
Thanks for letting me vent!
Merry Christmas,
Jim
I agree with Jim on those kits, biggest piece of crap out there. The rag itself in addition to Jim's comments is too flexiable. I had a couple of new in the bag (chinese made) here. I gave one away and tossed the other. Who knows how long the GM rags are going to be around. If you guys plan on keeping your cars you may want to put one on the shelf.
I have (1) NOS 63-66 rag here that is like gold now, the 67-82 may follow in the future.
I have (1) NOS 63-66 rag here that is like gold now, the 67-82 may follow in the future.
#196
Drifting
Yeah! Nothing like a fresh canvas to create on!
Your frame came out very nice and I especially like the satin look that it has.
Your frame came out very nice and I especially like the satin look that it has.
Last edited by Aggitated Monkey; 01-03-2008 at 07:37 PM. Reason: sp
#200
Safety Car
Thread Starter