Rookie's first attempt at a restoration...
#2021
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Initially, the body will get 3 coats of Evercoat Slick sand. Its pretty much sprayable body filler. The key to using this stuff though is to sand it until you break through everywhere, and to remove as much of it as possible. Make sure you guide coat it. This stuff saves you a ton of time. Ten years ago this stuff sanded like concrete, and it wasn't very popular. However, evercoat has their sh*t together now and it sands like butter. Guide coat it, and knock down the orange peel with 120. Switch over to 180 grit and block it completely. Slick Sand cannot be directly painted over - you need to prime it with regular primer.
Once the Slick Sand has been blocked I'll give the body 3 more coats of 2K high build primer. I'm still not sure which paint system I'm going with, so just choose a 2k high build primer from your paint system...always buy the quality stuff. Guide coat the primer, block it with 320. Guide coat it again, block it with 400. Then guide coat it once more and finish it with 600. If you break through to the slick sand anywhere, you'll have to spot prime those areas and do the process over again.
Last edited by stinger12; 10-18-2011 at 07:00 AM.
#2023
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I worked all weekend on the right rear flare. Hopefully by the end of the week I will have some mud on it...I still have a lot of grinding, glassing, and shaping to do, but at least now I am happy with the overall shape. Next thing I need to concentrate on is making it round...
Last edited by stinger12; 10-24-2011 at 01:09 AM.
#2025
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Been really busy this past week. Work is amazing, Byron is teaching me so much, and I am working on my dream car right now...a pro touring 69 camaro. After hours I'm working on Rick's 3000 HP, '65 Ford Fairlane. That thing is a beast of a machine.
Then, with whatever time I can scrounge up, I have been chipping away at this rear flare. Mike gave me the go ahead today to start laying some everglass. So here is an update with pics...
My goal is to have this flare finished by the end of next week.
Then, with whatever time I can scrounge up, I have been chipping away at this rear flare. Mike gave me the go ahead today to start laying some everglass. So here is an update with pics...
My goal is to have this flare finished by the end of next week.
Last edited by stinger12; 10-30-2011 at 03:33 AM.
#2026
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Getting closer. The finished lip on the rear flare is 1/4" higher than the lip on the front flare. I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. Its functional, yet still looks great from every angle. The tire is centered perfectly in the opening, and remember, this car has been set to ride height already (both the front and back).
Lots of the flares I have seen are mounted lower than the front ones, with the tire extremely close to the lip. Mine pretty much look stock from the side, but still have that aggressive look. They are functional, and allow you to play around with a different rim and tire size down the road.
The other thing I have been taught by Mike is to make sure they look identical to the front ones, only on a larger scale. They are symmetrical to the front ones.
I have an idea on how I am going to duplicate the right rear flare for the left side. I'll show it to you once I finish the right side (almost done).
Lots of the flares I have seen are mounted lower than the front ones, with the tire extremely close to the lip. Mine pretty much look stock from the side, but still have that aggressive look. They are functional, and allow you to play around with a different rim and tire size down the road.
The other thing I have been taught by Mike is to make sure they look identical to the front ones, only on a larger scale. They are symmetrical to the front ones.
I have an idea on how I am going to duplicate the right rear flare for the left side. I'll show it to you once I finish the right side (almost done).
Last edited by stinger12; 10-31-2011 at 08:33 AM.
#2028
Drifting
#2031
Drifting
Good job, Jeremy! How many times have you sat where the driver's seat will be and made "engine noises" while you raced the invisible car next to you?
Looks like you could be doing that for real inside a year if you keep after it. It looks great!
Looks like you could be doing that for real inside a year if you keep after it. It looks great!
#2032
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#2036
Safety Car
Thread Starter
You guys remember when I built the quarter panel edge forward so there was almost zero gap to the back of the door? Well, once all the filler work is complete, all I have to do is sand down the edge to open it up to the correct size. See, I planned ahead! The door is perfectly centered between the a pillar and b pillar, exactly where it needs to be so the weatherstripping seals and doesn't bind on the door when shut. All this prefitting and planning is coming together.
#2038
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The right quarter panel is all roughed in. It just needs a few touch ups before slick sand.
Throughout the entire build, I have been using 4 marked spots on the garage floor which have been levelled with boards. This is crucial when you build any car for that matter. You need to take measurements of everything. Allthread has been used to simulate the stance of the car once complete. Once its all together, the front springs will be cut to get the car to sit exactly like it is now. Always check to see if your frame is still level, when there is no weight in the car, stuff can change ever so slightly when you push the car in and out of the shop - I have had this happened to me once. It wasn't much, but a readjustment of the front allthread was needed to fix the problem before I mounted all the flares in position for good. Here's another thing to consider. If you have all brand new tires with no wear, then all you have to do is set the psi to 30 for each tire. However, if you have worn tires, setting all of them to 30 psi will set the height different on each tire to the ground (not all tires wear evenly). So play around with the psi in each one until the bottom lip of the rim is the same distance to the ground on all four corners.
I am jumping to the left quarter panel and starting the flare work. I want to show you what you get out of the box.
I don't know about you guys, but I think they look like garbage. They are not round. There is no even lip around the perimeter of the tire. The gap behind the tire has not been fixed to make the wheel look centered in the flare. Get this - the three pictures I posted above were taken with the frame levelled, all tires having 30 psi, and the highest point on this lip is equal to the highest point of the lip on the right side. So, this is where it has to be bonded. From there I have to modify it exactly like I did on the right side, which is no easy chore. And to be honest, I don't think they look good from any angle straight out of the box. Which is why I am completely reshaping them so they look over the top.
More tomorrow.
Throughout the entire build, I have been using 4 marked spots on the garage floor which have been levelled with boards. This is crucial when you build any car for that matter. You need to take measurements of everything. Allthread has been used to simulate the stance of the car once complete. Once its all together, the front springs will be cut to get the car to sit exactly like it is now. Always check to see if your frame is still level, when there is no weight in the car, stuff can change ever so slightly when you push the car in and out of the shop - I have had this happened to me once. It wasn't much, but a readjustment of the front allthread was needed to fix the problem before I mounted all the flares in position for good. Here's another thing to consider. If you have all brand new tires with no wear, then all you have to do is set the psi to 30 for each tire. However, if you have worn tires, setting all of them to 30 psi will set the height different on each tire to the ground (not all tires wear evenly). So play around with the psi in each one until the bottom lip of the rim is the same distance to the ground on all four corners.
I am jumping to the left quarter panel and starting the flare work. I want to show you what you get out of the box.
I don't know about you guys, but I think they look like garbage. They are not round. There is no even lip around the perimeter of the tire. The gap behind the tire has not been fixed to make the wheel look centered in the flare. Get this - the three pictures I posted above were taken with the frame levelled, all tires having 30 psi, and the highest point on this lip is equal to the highest point of the lip on the right side. So, this is where it has to be bonded. From there I have to modify it exactly like I did on the right side, which is no easy chore. And to be honest, I don't think they look good from any angle straight out of the box. Which is why I am completely reshaping them so they look over the top.
More tomorrow.
Last edited by stinger12; 11-10-2011 at 01:55 AM.
#2039
Safety Car
I hope you have chosen some sick metalflake color that will have a lot of depth in it to show off all the hard work you've done to make the body beyond perfect./:\
#2040
Safety Car
Thread Starter
We just painted a 69 Camaro at work. It went black with white stripes. I think that is the color combo I am going with. Man, did that thing turn out sick. I didn't want to paint it black because its a pain to keep clean, but that camaro really changed my mind when I saw it all polished up.