I've tried about everything I can think of !.............Here's th deal. I bought the '73 a couple years ago, it's got a 350 original block with Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Performer Carb & Intake, Hooker sidepipes & 400 Turbo. When I got it, it didn't want to start when it was hot, so I would just let it cool down and it would start. Finally I bought a PowerMaster mini high torque starter, but it never work, I tried every shim, checked the flywheel and smooth every tooth, the thing would not disengage, so I sent it back and put the original starter back on. The original starter always sounded like metal to metal at certain spots, but it would always start if it was cold........Next thing I did was put a Taraus fan in place of the electric fan the PO had on. Then I put another mini high torque starter on, it made a grining noise also sometime, but would start fine when hot for about a month, then it started grinding bad, so I took it off to check the flywheel. I use the old starter bolts that were to long so I used nut for a thick washer, so I thought maybe the stater shifted a little. Took off the starter and check the flywheel, was chewed up a little, so I smooted every tooth again and bought new bolts the right length, put it back on, still making grinding noise. So I put original starter back, tried to start it and the solenoid went out. Bought new solenoid, when to start it and the switch went out. Had a remote switch that came off a Camaro I bought that had lost the key for, put it on an it cranks but won't start. It had been sitting for a couple months. I thought the plugs had fouled out, put new plugs in, still won't start, acts like it flooding, hold gas to the floor, acts like it wants to start but won't, thought it was carb, took it off checked float and for trash, every thing looked fine, even took a Quadrajet off my Blazer that I knew was right, still won't start.It's getting fire( some). Checked timing put new points, rotor button,condensor the cap looked good, still won't start. I bought a new switch earlier, but hated to drop steering wheel , so I put on the remote. I thought maybe it was the remote switch, so I put the new switch on, it's doing the same thing the old one was, It works in every position except start, the gauge lights dim when you go to the start position. I have noticed the (+)coil wire gets hot when trying to start, it has two wires spliced together, one goes to the starter ( s ) the other goes under the dash ( switch I quess) they look sort of burnt..............????? What can I check next and what electrical tools do I need. Such a sad story ! Would be nice to have it back on the road. Winter project is to pull motor and see what's going on with grinding noise.... Maybe a new wiring harness ? H.E.L.P ( S O S ) !

 

I think that you might have a bent flywheel or a flywheel with a tooth count that doesn't match the starter you're using.

The no-start problem also sounds like an electrical problem. If the car used to start before you installed the remote system them your problem might lye in the wiring of that remote start kit. Try removing it and putting it all back to the way it was when it ran and see what happens.

Do you have a wiring diagram of your car's ignition system so you can make sure you have all the proper wiring and delete the un-needed Bubba wiring that cam on the car?

 

Check to see that you are getting 12 volts to the coil when cranking. Cars with points need 12 volts supplied to the coil from the starter during cranking. Then when you release the starter the voltage is dropped down and supplied from a resistor wire. I’m not sure on the voltage from the resistor wire I think it’s 8 volts. Anyway if you are only getting voltage from the resistor wire it will not want to start.

 

The switch went out, so I thought, in start mode the guages would dim, but nothing happened, not even a click. That's when I put the remote one on. I did disconnect the remote switch. Even with the new switch it did the same as the old switch. I also put a different coil, no change.

 

Have you checked the fusible links at the starter?

 

Are those resistor wires coming from the coil (+) going to the starter ( s ) and the switch ?

 

How do you check it ?......I don't have an ohm meter, I need to buy one.

 

It's the other way around. The power comes from the starter to the coil.

Fusible links, when they block, get burned from the cylinder to the end of the end of the wire. It's that short length that's the link that cab blow or become weak.

 

Divide and conquer,

you got way to many variables going on.
start with your basics.

1. you need 12V solid at the starter, with good connections,
if you have this you should be able to jumper the start solinoid and the starter should crank all the time.

2. you must have 12v for your ignition,
if you have this you will have spark at any plug wire during cranking.

3. figure out the mechanical problem with the starter,
sounds like your ring gear is chewed up, make sure your starter is setup proper clearance with the ring gear.

4. forget the remote start unil you have ever thing working correctly.

 

Yes there should be 2 wires going to your coil positive. One goes into the firewall on the drivers side the other goes to your R or S (I don’t remember off hand) pole on the starter.


An easy way to check what I was talking about, is run a jumper wire that you are sure has 12 Volts to the coil +. If the car does start you will need to kill power to this wire to get the car to shut off. Just be sure you can break the power going to this wire while the engine is running. You can run it to switched power or however you like for the test. That should eliminate any problems with the wiring coming from your starter.

 

Most remote starters have an iginition interlock relay, some fail open (incase someone removes the power) you may have made your own problem with the remote start ?

 

I put the remote on after the factory switch went out, the solenoid went out first. I can jump the solenoid with a screwdriver.