mayor28

I am doing a lot of preliminary research about how to redo an interior.

Sound Deadener for engine / exhaust sound and road noise.
Insulation for heat dissipation.
Some people say both.

I would like to reduce some of the road and engine noise in the car. Sound deadener makes sense to do this, but do I need both?

Corvette guys seem to love putting new insulation under carpet installs because of the heat from the engine and tranny. Is it really necessary? I haven't noticed a lot of heat as is right now. I don't think the car has anything except the stock carpet.

Sorry for the long post.

Appreciate the help.

-Matt

mayor28

Additionally, here are the products I am looking into:

Armaflex
Dynamat
FatMat
Reflectix
RAAMmat
B-Quiet

Any others that you may have worked with????

jordan89

This should be an interesting thread. I'm getting ready to install my carpet and am not sure if I should install the insulation and the carpet, or to also add some kind of sound deadener. Although insulation is not just to keep heat out, it also keeps some of the road noise out.

wan2run

mayor28

No replies yet?!

I appreciate any feedback at all. Whatever you may be thinking.

7T1vette

If you want a solid, quiet car...buy a C5/6/7. So, since you have a C3, all you need is heat insulation [and you have to do that]. Reflectix is very effective and the least expensive heat insulation material. It is not the most durable material; but, if you don't mis-treat it during installation, it should work well for many years. That is my recommendation. I installed it in my '71 coupe when I lived in Phoenix and I've been pleased with it for nearly 5 years, now. It is also very easy to install. All you need is some 3M spray adhesive and some [aluminum] foil heat/a/c tape to join the pieces.

RobRace10

I haven't driven mine yet, but just installed Dynamat, then 1/8" Dynaliner on top of that. In the real high heat areas over the headers, pipes and gearbox I also put some Reflectix type material. The new carpet also has some backing material. I need to order a little more Dynamat for the doors.

MakoShark72

Thats what I did....minus the Dynaliner...

mayor28

How many square feet of material do you need to do the entire interior?

Including doors?

Excluding doors?

MakoShark72

I used about 72 sq ft of Dynamat Xtreme...that's 2 "bulk packs" (36 sq ft each) as sold on ebay, around $300. Did entire cockpit, doors, and t-tops..doubled up on firewall, and trans tunnel.

Rob

mayor28

I guess I should not have made this a poll.......

onaqwst

same here.. i doubled up on the firewall and trans tunnel

Dustup7T2

Before I start extolling the virtues of my choice, let me be clear that I haven't put my car to the ultimate test yet: it hasn't seen a single mile of road use yet.

The choice I made combines all the features your poll questioned: sound deadener and heat protection. An added benefit is product thickness: 1/8" thick. It's called Hushmat.



That may influence those who already stacked layers of sheet protection to get what they want and had to consider jute and carpet fitment. This is as easy as Dynamat too: peel and stick.

It's priced comparably to Dynamat, so it ain't cheap. I paid $220 for a box of 20 ea. 12"x24" sheets, IIRC.

I've been busy fitting out under the hood and fixin' to move into the cabin in next week or two to finish there so no cabin progress lately.

Here's a pic from last august; still looks almost the same.



I bought it because the mfgtr says it sticks to any existing surface. I did clean the oil-soaked fiberglass floor and tunnel as best I could but without harsh chemicals. Just soap and hot water. Didn't want to melt holes in there.

I wanted inverted too. So far, so good. It's another option to think about.

onaqwst

you can also use a heat gun to stick it down and for better adhesion

mayor28

thanks for the pics and hints.

rosslato

why not use a product that does both?
http://www.insulation4less.com/Insul...l-48-Inch.aspx

nw2571

I went only the Reflectix route on my interior redo last year. I have long tube headers and my foot wells went from nearly unbearable, to very reasonable with only two layers in the forward area. One layer installed from seats back.

I have no regrets for not putting in Dynamat or something that is more designed to eliminate noise. I generally have the tops off and/or windows down whenver I drive the car. On top of the tune of the Flowmasters in the back, road noise is a non-thought. Dynamat is expensive. Isn't it relatively heavy too?

One word of advice.... don't put any insulation directly in front of the e-brake slider. I did and it caused the slider to bind up really badly. I have since went back and cut that section out.

71corvette

I would like to suggest another alternative. Check out Low E insulation from a website called lobucrod.com. You can also find his product on ebay. This stuff is only about 1/8 inch thick, it is closed cell foam with aluminum backing and is only $40 for a 4ft x 10ft roll. It cuts beautifully with a box knife or scissors. I originally bought the reflectix from home depot but it is much thicker and it is made from bubble pack closed cells. I'm sure it would work well too but this Low E stuff is thin and your carpet will fit nicely if you keep the original type jute padding on the back of the carpet. It forms easily and sticks great using 3M #77 spray glue. I made my own firewall pad out of the stuff using 2 layers. You will need two rolls of it. So, for $80 you will have something that is really nice.

dboz

I used Lizard Skin.

cottoneg

Didn't Wilcox have something for this?