4docj

Hello. new to the forum. I was wondering if someone could help me with the value of this car: 1970 454 convertible, NOM. The engine stamp looks like T??31CGV (see pictures below). block number is 3963512 and head numbers are 3964290.

car needs repaint, speedometer doesn't work, definitely some TLC. not heavily optioned - no ac, no pb, no ps. has tank sheet but poor quality, can't read much.

what kind of investment value does this car have? what's your best guess on how much to bring this car up to par? i'm sure this isn't enought information, but if you could give ranges, i'd appreciate.

thanks in advance!

http://www.texasclassiccarsofdallas....20Corvette.htm

zwede

Without having seen it in person I'll go $15K-$20K as is. But I can't tell how bad the paint is from the pics, you say "needs repaint". If it needs paint right away to look decent I'll lean more towards $15K. If it's a 5-footer more towards $20K. With all little things fixed, detailed and painted it will probably max out in the $25K-$30K area.

I don't really think in "investment" term for these cars. Stamps may be a better choice if that's what you want. You buy the car because you love it.

longbros

The CGV suffix code is from a 70 Impala automatic I am pretty sure. Be sure to verify the other big block features like, big block tach, larger front sway bar, rear sway bar, caps on half shafts, etc.

Alan 71

Hi 4dj,
This could be a great car for driving and fun. BUT NOM and "investment" don't really go together. Almost always a car with the original engine or a well done number's matching engine will be the better "investment". I'm echoing zwede.
Don't let this discourage you if you're not really interested in having an original engine car. You just need to be careful that you don't put too much money in it that you won't get back when you decide to sell it.
Beyond all that you just need to be careful about the usual 68-72 kind of things, and remember it's a 40 year old car. Rust being probably the biggest single issue to look for.
Regards,
Alan

10caipirinhas

For me having no AC, no PS and no PB is a huge plus. To each their own obviously.

I am studying these cars before buying one, and am of the opinion that there is no investment value in them like others said. In other words, no upside for 25+ years.....if at all. But that is not why I want one........

Good examples of all the chrome bumper C3's have probably flatlined price wise, and I think that you won't lose any of your purchase price in the long run, provided you do your homework and buy a "real" car. Where you will lose money is in maintaining a 35+ year old car and fixing it up to your personal taste...........others will also share their opinions, and trust me, I have been wrong before.

The front end of the yellow car is quite crooked if you look at it in the pic on their website. Both in attitude/ride height and the bumper/panel fit. I'm not experienced enough with C3's to say why.........if this is common, an easy fix, or indicative of a major and poorly done accident repair, or whatever.

It also seemed to be idling high in their video.....around 1,200 rpm.

GPGG70

I dont own a BB but do have 2 1970 SB vettes. I see a lot of things about the car that's not right.
The fuel line and filter going to the carb is a fire hazard for sure.
The seats are not correct or even close.
But what tic's me off is the stupid radio playing during a taped road run. Why?
Also the pic's while up on the lift. Dam if it's up on the lift why not show pictures under the car other then 20ft away. RUST Maybe?
The front end passenger side looks like it still has the original grill but the driverside is a replacement for a A-14 build car. Also it's been a red vette at one time in it's life but is a yellow vette from the factory. The other thing is the headlight bezel. They look like replacements and should be painted yellow, same as the car. So why are they not painted? Hummm. Maybe has been hit in the front driverside would be my guess and that's where you'll have to look the car over real good to determine if it's been hit before, and you might take someone with you with a lot of 70 experience to help you look at it if your considering the car. 15 to 17k MAX.

spinadog

Strange that you have a freshly painted motor but the underside shot shows a silver or bare metal oil pan

but, air cleaner not original and this was possibly a dual snorkel car (has late '70 cross-hatch tail lights), PCV not in place, no shielding, etc.

Those blacked out bezels would also have me worried too. Can't tell if the gills have the vertical chrome but it looks like they do (also wrong for '70 but not sure for late '70). Has knockoff el-cheapo valve covers - no dimples or brackets for the spark plug holders. All consistent with a NOM motor....

I think this girl has some front end stories to tell....

4docj

just logged back in and wow some great replies. so thanks everyone for the help. i figured 36k for the car was a joke. i offered 15 and the consigner wouldn't even take it to the seller. oh well. i guess better off finding a true original if possible. i'll keep looking. thanks again!

i don't mean to start something here but i did find a guy who said all i have to do is deck the block and restamp and the value wouldn't be that affected. is this common? is this guy saying that i now have a 'matching numbers' car?

Faster Rat

[QUOTE=4docj;i don't mean to start something here but i did find a guy who said all i have to do is deck the block and restamp and the value wouldn't be that affected. is this common? is this guy saying that i now have a 'matching numbers' car?[/QUOTE]

Why would you want to do that? Only crooked and deceitful people practice this...then try to sell the car to some dupe for more money than it is actually worth. If it doesn't bother you, then go for it.

4docj

not saying i would do it - just wondering how common the practice is and if it is common how you verify your 'numbers matching' car is truly numbers matching??

Alan 71

Hi 4dj,
As I said in my post we're talking about 2 different things here.
The original engine is of course the engine the car left St. Louis with.
A numbers matching engine can be an engine with the proper casting numbers and dates that has had the pad surfaced to appear to have original type broach marks and then the VIN derivative,the engine build date and suffix stamped to tie it to the car it's now in.
This whole business is enough to make many people go wacko, but at the same time is important to some people.
I think it all comes down to what the car IS, how it's DESCRIBED, and what the PRICE is.
A good example is my base engine 71, it has the original engine and original pad, but it doesn't matter much. But, if it were an LT-! or ZR-! the pad would be much more important.
Again, many many people say "much ado about nothing". "It's just a car... enjoy it".
Regards,
Alan