alconk

Alright after fighting with my mushy brake pedal for months I have decided to replace the calipers with the ones with the O-ring. But there is a big difference in price from rebuilt to new. So what would you reconmend? After the car sits even for a few hours then push on the pedal for the first time it's very mushy but after a couple pumps it's pretty hard. And I think it's coming from the front bleeders becasuse they are wet. I even replaced them with stainless ones and are tight.

Lemon Ray

Alconk, if you have original calipers and the car has spent any time sitting (several months) you most likely need to replace your calipers - all four. Pull them off and inspect them. If you see a bunch of corrosion and built up greasy oil the calipers are leaking. The cylinder itself corrodes which cause the caliper to draw microscopic air bubbles into the system and then mushy brakes. Hope that helps.

ddawson

Well you could just replace the bleeders but I would inspect each caliper.

No reason for new, Either send yours in to be cleaned and O ringed or just use your as cores.

alconk

I did replace the bleeders. I did not know you could send them in to be O ringed. Who does that?

mds3013

You can rebuild them yourself. Look through this thread. mike...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html

leadfoot4

Yes, but the key to that write up, is the author's calipers were already re-sleeved with the stainless inserts. The OP didn't mention if his calipers already had the sleeves, or they were still the original cast iron finish (in which case, I'd recommend having them sleeved).

speedreed8

contact Muskegonbrake they can probably rebuild yours.
http://muskegonbrake.com/corvette/co...aliper-rebuild

muskegonbrake

Thank You speedreed8!

alconk, we would be more than happy to sleeve and rebuild your original calipers if you desire (as there is an approximate 4 week turn-around) or we can exchange them with newly rebuilt calipers. In the exchange we can even match your casting numbers on your calipers so numbers jive with the ones your car would have came with. If this interests you give us a call toll free at 800-442-0335 or stop by our website at www.muskegonbrake.com.

-muskegonbrake

qwank

The best deal would be rebuilt lip seal calipers. I have no issue with lip seal style, but I drive my car a lot and it only sits for about 5 months over the winter.

I like rebuilt better because you have a better chance of getting original castings, instead of the new Chinese made ones. Although one of my calipers is chinese, and it has had no problems yet.

I keep a full lip seal kit in my tool box just in case I have to rebuild one.

alconk

WellI don't know if the calipers are original or not, how would I be able to tell? Because if the PO replaced one or two somewhere along the line with a Chinese unit I'd just toss it.

Rally68

These calipers are available as rebuilds at just about any parts store. If you give them your cores, the rebuilds cost about $65. I purchased one after I cranked off a bleed nipple; I was back on the road the same day and it hasn't leaked a drop in 2 years since...

Also, if you're getting new calipers, Speed Bleeders are well worth the money...my 2c

Mike Ward

If you can't get a hard pedal to start with, o-ring calipers won't help.

qwank

Chinese ones won't say "Delco" on them

John 65

Through the years for my current and past vettes I also use the rebuilt Delco Moraine brake calipers from the local auto parts store. Most recently Autozone. I had one leak probably 7? years after it was purchased, went back with my receipt and they exchange it at no cost. Lifetime warranty I believe, plus no shipping fees. If not having the original caliper back on the car is not an issue, check it out.

redvetracr

don`t be so sure of that....

Paul L

I have used a couple. They (from NAPA) are aluminized and do not rust. Are they SS-sleeved? I do not know. I do know they have served me well since last May and come with a lifetime warranty. Don't be too quick to knock the ability of the Chinese to produce fine products. I would imagine the likes of NAPA, with its purchasing power and Q/A demands, will not tolerate a flawed product.

Stroh

Whatever you do, don't by the sleeves and rings and try doing it yourself. I've done it, or I should say failed at it twice and afterword, heard that basically the success rate is minimal. I went with oreilly rebuild and have been very happy with them.

68/70Vette

Don't know how "financial" you are, but consider replacing them with aluminum calipers. Stainless Steel Brake Corporation (SSBC) or Wilwoods. I have SSBC on my 68 and 70. I think Wilwoods cost less. They seem to be the most popular brand lately.

If you have an old Corvette also consider replacing all the brake lines, the one you have are probably rusted inside. The brake lines can replaced with the body on..at least for SB cars. SS brake lines with SS fittings are pretty much corrosion proof. An then....you can replace the MC with a new rebuilt (it never stops). Finally with an all new brake and dry brake system, you have an option for silicon brake fluid. I have it in my 68, works fine, very hard pedal.

I like the aluminum calipers because they are so much lighter.

alconk

I think the non hard pedal is coming from the leaking bleeder valves that have been replaced twice. Fronts only, rears do not leak.

alconk

Whew... just checked them out, yes alittle pricy for me. Don't need nothing that fancy for me. Thanks for the comment though.