Disassembly Of Front Suspension - Question
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Disassembly Of Front Suspension - Question
I started a thread a few days ago about detailing my engine bay, and got some good advice there, but here's a specific question on the same subject.
If I use the correct tools to disassemble my front suspension, will the removal of the ball joints (or any other suspension parts) cause damage such that they should be replaced?
I don't have any reason to do the disassembly, other that to clean the parts up and paint them.
Thanks for your input.
If I use the correct tools to disassemble my front suspension, will the removal of the ball joints (or any other suspension parts) cause damage such that they should be replaced?
I don't have any reason to do the disassembly, other that to clean the parts up and paint them.
Thanks for your input.
#2
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St. Jude Donor '10
I am right there with you. I too would love to hear comments on this exact thread. Here is a bump and I will listen closely.
Thanks for posting this.
David
Thanks for posting this.
David
#3
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Cruise-In II Veteran
Original ball joints are riveted to the arms. You will have to knock the heads off/drill out the rivets if you want to remove them.
If you work with care and use the correct tools, you could probably disassemble and reassemble the suspension but you need to keep in mind you are working with 40 year old parts.
Good luck.
If you work with care and use the correct tools, you could probably disassemble and reassemble the suspension but you need to keep in mind you are working with 40 year old parts.
Good luck.
#4
Team Owner
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If you replace components, insist on knowing where the parts were made, who made them. Original AC Delco parts (idler, ball joints, tie rod ends) are getting scarce and expensive. Moog (made in the USA) is a great choice.
Pull off the rotors and clean the dirt off the spindle. Replace the spindle to rotor dust gasket....etc.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input so far ... much appreciated.
I should have been more careful with the wording in my OP ... I am planning on replacing all of the bushings in the assembly ... I was just wondering about the metal parts.
I do have original riveted ball joints, and I will be sure to determine if they are still good. If they are okay, can I do this dis-assembly while leaving the ball joints mounted on the upper A-arms?
I should have been more careful with the wording in my OP ... I am planning on replacing all of the bushings in the assembly ... I was just wondering about the metal parts.
I do have original riveted ball joints, and I will be sure to determine if they are still good. If they are okay, can I do this dis-assembly while leaving the ball joints mounted on the upper A-arms?
#6
Tech Contributor
yes. If the BJ are good no problem,the lowers wear 3x as fast as the uppers.
#8
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Hi 70Y,
I restored my front suspension and only replaced the a-arm bushings, upper and lower rubber bumpers, and sway bar link bushings.
You just have to be VERY careful when taking things apart.
Regards,
Alan
I restored my front suspension and only replaced the a-arm bushings, upper and lower rubber bumpers, and sway bar link bushings.
You just have to be VERY careful when taking things apart.
Regards,
Alan
#9
Drifting
70 Yellowbird,
Take a look at the pic's and you my allready know this, if you hit the strikeing pads on the spindles and the tie rod where I have circled in red you wont tear up anything and you can get the whole front end off to rebuild the A-Arms. I'm in the process of re-installing everything and never tore up any of the rubber grease covers.
All I wanted to do was to clean up everything and replace the A-arm bushings while I had my radiator out.
Notice that in the bottom picture I lossend both castle nuts on the upper and lower ball joints then wacked the top ball joint strike pad and then the bottom then I removed the nut off of the top ball joint. Take special care when you do this and support the bottom a-arm with a floor jack. At this point the bottom ball joint is loose then I lowered the A-arm very slowly with a chain wraped around the spring and had no problem getting the spring out. Now is when I removed the remainder of the lower ball joint from the spindel.
As far as the the steering assembly goes other then the tierod ends I havent goten that far yet. Hope this helps.
Take a look at the pic's and you my allready know this, if you hit the strikeing pads on the spindles and the tie rod where I have circled in red you wont tear up anything and you can get the whole front end off to rebuild the A-Arms. I'm in the process of re-installing everything and never tore up any of the rubber grease covers.
All I wanted to do was to clean up everything and replace the A-arm bushings while I had my radiator out.
Notice that in the bottom picture I lossend both castle nuts on the upper and lower ball joints then wacked the top ball joint strike pad and then the bottom then I removed the nut off of the top ball joint. Take special care when you do this and support the bottom a-arm with a floor jack. At this point the bottom ball joint is loose then I lowered the A-arm very slowly with a chain wraped around the spring and had no problem getting the spring out. Now is when I removed the remainder of the lower ball joint from the spindel.
As far as the the steering assembly goes other then the tierod ends I havent goten that far yet. Hope this helps.
#10
Burning Brakes
Hi,
As far as damage goes, keep in mind:
You can always snap a bolt.
I ruined one ball Joint, the splitter was not straight and bended the pivot.
Lower bolts are on tight!!! Especially the rear one, took a lot of torque, and some heat to get is loose.
Castle nuts are usually damaged when you bang on them.
Brake dust shields are also fragile.
As far as damage goes, keep in mind:
You can always snap a bolt.
I ruined one ball Joint, the splitter was not straight and bended the pivot.
Lower bolts are on tight!!! Especially the rear one, took a lot of torque, and some heat to get is loose.
Castle nuts are usually damaged when you bang on them.
Brake dust shields are also fragile.