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Cadium Dichromate Finish--How to Duplicate

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Old 03-26-2009, 07:00 PM
  #21  
71white
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any one know of a shop local to me in Calif?
Old 03-26-2009, 07:07 PM
  #22  
1971Coupe
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Originally Posted by 1971Coupe
I called Virginia Vettes yesterday, the guy said up front, it's basically a gold paint and
will not give you the cad dichromate look, but the gold color is close.

Look up plating guys in your neighbourhood, I found someone to do mine for $50.
That's what he said over the phone, but also said to get others to have theirs done
to split the cost.
forget the plating idea, I went today, the actuator would have to come apart, and I don't think thats possible without damaging it.
Old 05-21-2017, 10:06 AM
  #23  
NRAROX
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I know this is an old thread . . . but, Alan and 7T1Vette, what brand paint did you use?
Old 05-21-2017, 10:44 AM
  #24  
Alan 71
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Hi n,
I used spray paints from the craft/hobby store.
Since this thread was current I've been learning about and doing zinc plating with the equipment from Casswell.
It takes some practice but does a very good job. It's a LOT more expensive than a few cans of spray paint.
The trick to the paint is to not end up with just one color but to try to duplicated the appearance of the dichromate 'wash' over the zinc. You should see some green and blue hues along with a little silver.
Actually I think the painted actuators are 'prettier' than the plated parts but the plating is more authentic in appearance.
Really, a can of gold or copper does a pretty nice job by itself!
Regards,
Alan

Painted.


Plated.
Old 05-22-2017, 04:32 AM
  #25  
hunt4cleanair
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi n,
I used spray paints from the craft/hobby store.
Since this thread was current I've been learning about and doing zinc plating with the equipment from Casswell.
It takes some practice but does a very good job. It's a LOT more expensive than a few cans of spray paint.
The trick to the paint is to not end up with just one color but to try to duplicated the appearance of the dichromate 'wash' over the zinc. You should see some green and blue hues along with a little silver.
Actually I think the painted actuators are 'prettier' than the plated parts but the plating is more authentic in appearance.
Really, a can of gold or copper does a pretty nice job by itself!
The difference is distinctive and the two photos show the contrast. Quite interesting...leave it to Alan! LOL

So how did you like that Casswell system? I'm tempted as well.
Old 05-22-2017, 09:24 AM
  #26  
NRAROX
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Thanks, Alan. I must use paint as the actuator I'm using has (had) a few small dents in it that would really 'pop' with nice paint. I'll give it a shot. Your plating job looks great.
Old 05-22-2017, 10:11 AM
  #27  
Alan 71
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Hi h4,
I like the Caswell system very much.
You have to follow the directions carefully and it takes a bit of practice.
It's not at all inexpensive but a good choice for someone who wants to keep control of fasteners and small parts.
If you consider fasteners to be just a bag or container full of fasteners, then sending them to a commercial plater makes sense.
I'm doing cold Black Oxide (the easiest to do), zinc and manganese phosphate (pretty easy to do), and clear zinc and zinc w/ dichromate wash) the most difficult.
I bought the 3 amp rectifier but now wish I'd purchased the 5 amp model which allows larger parts to be plated.
Regards,
Alan

The zinc system.


The phosphate system.


These are original parts from my car.
This shows the finishes except for the zinc phosphate which is a lighter gray than what is on the control arm bushing retainers.

Last edited by Alan 71; 05-22-2017 at 10:15 AM.
Old 05-22-2017, 01:49 PM
  #28  
hunt4cleanair
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi h4,
I like the Caswell system very much.
You have to follow the directions carefully and it takes a bit of practice.
It's not at all inexpensive but a good choice for someone who wants to keep control of fasteners and small parts.
If you consider fasteners to be just a bag or container full of fasteners, then sending them to a commercial plater makes sense.
I'm doing cold Black Oxide (the easiest to do), zinc and manganese phosphate (pretty easy to do), and clear zinc and zinc w/ dichromate wash) the most difficult.
I bought the 3 amp rectifier but now wish I'd purchased the 5 amp model which allows larger parts to be plated.
Regards,
Alan
the dichromate looks excellent. I worked with the cold black oxide and while its pretty easy, I was diappointed by its longevity...maybe I didn't get one of the zillion steps spot on.
Old 05-22-2017, 02:20 PM
  #29  
Alan 71
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Hi h4c,
I've found the make-up of the steel (I guess its 'alloy') has a big affect on how dark the part actually gets and remains.
I have some fasteners that get very black quickly, while others just get a opaque dark brown.
Also, any plating remnants on the surface seem to defeat the oxide process too.
Everything I read indicates I'm just 'dicking around' with plating when compared to what people who really understand the processes involved are doing.
Regards,
Alan
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Old 05-22-2017, 02:36 PM
  #30  
L-46man
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Corvette Central has carburettor zinc di-chromate paint....pretty close.

Last edited by L-46man; 05-22-2017 at 02:37 PM.
Old 05-22-2017, 03:27 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by L-46man
Corvette Central has carburettor zinc di-chromate paint....pretty close.
Yeah...but its not plating!
Old 05-22-2017, 03:41 PM
  #32  
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This is the system Im going to use ASAP.



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