Cadium Dichromate Finish--How to Duplicate
#22
Le Mans Master
I called Virginia Vettes yesterday, the guy said up front, it's basically a gold paint and
will not give you the cad dichromate look, but the gold color is close.
Look up plating guys in your neighbourhood, I found someone to do mine for $50.
That's what he said over the phone, but also said to get others to have theirs done
to split the cost.
will not give you the cad dichromate look, but the gold color is close.
Look up plating guys in your neighbourhood, I found someone to do mine for $50.
That's what he said over the phone, but also said to get others to have theirs done
to split the cost.
#24
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi n,
I used spray paints from the craft/hobby store.
Since this thread was current I've been learning about and doing zinc plating with the equipment from Casswell.
It takes some practice but does a very good job. It's a LOT more expensive than a few cans of spray paint.
The trick to the paint is to not end up with just one color but to try to duplicated the appearance of the dichromate 'wash' over the zinc. You should see some green and blue hues along with a little silver.
Actually I think the painted actuators are 'prettier' than the plated parts but the plating is more authentic in appearance.
Really, a can of gold or copper does a pretty nice job by itself!
Regards,
Alan
Painted.
Plated.
I used spray paints from the craft/hobby store.
Since this thread was current I've been learning about and doing zinc plating with the equipment from Casswell.
It takes some practice but does a very good job. It's a LOT more expensive than a few cans of spray paint.
The trick to the paint is to not end up with just one color but to try to duplicated the appearance of the dichromate 'wash' over the zinc. You should see some green and blue hues along with a little silver.
Actually I think the painted actuators are 'prettier' than the plated parts but the plating is more authentic in appearance.
Really, a can of gold or copper does a pretty nice job by itself!
Regards,
Alan
Painted.
Plated.
#25
Safety Car
Hi n,
I used spray paints from the craft/hobby store.
Since this thread was current I've been learning about and doing zinc plating with the equipment from Casswell.
It takes some practice but does a very good job. It's a LOT more expensive than a few cans of spray paint.
The trick to the paint is to not end up with just one color but to try to duplicated the appearance of the dichromate 'wash' over the zinc. You should see some green and blue hues along with a little silver.
Actually I think the painted actuators are 'prettier' than the plated parts but the plating is more authentic in appearance.
Really, a can of gold or copper does a pretty nice job by itself!
I used spray paints from the craft/hobby store.
Since this thread was current I've been learning about and doing zinc plating with the equipment from Casswell.
It takes some practice but does a very good job. It's a LOT more expensive than a few cans of spray paint.
The trick to the paint is to not end up with just one color but to try to duplicated the appearance of the dichromate 'wash' over the zinc. You should see some green and blue hues along with a little silver.
Actually I think the painted actuators are 'prettier' than the plated parts but the plating is more authentic in appearance.
Really, a can of gold or copper does a pretty nice job by itself!
So how did you like that Casswell system? I'm tempted as well.
#26
Instructor
Thanks, Alan. I must use paint as the actuator I'm using has (had) a few small dents in it that would really 'pop' with nice paint. I'll give it a shot. Your plating job looks great.
#27
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
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Hi h4,
I like the Caswell system very much.
You have to follow the directions carefully and it takes a bit of practice.
It's not at all inexpensive but a good choice for someone who wants to keep control of fasteners and small parts.
If you consider fasteners to be just a bag or container full of fasteners, then sending them to a commercial plater makes sense.
I'm doing cold Black Oxide (the easiest to do), zinc and manganese phosphate (pretty easy to do), and clear zinc and zinc w/ dichromate wash) the most difficult.
I bought the 3 amp rectifier but now wish I'd purchased the 5 amp model which allows larger parts to be plated.
Regards,
Alan
The zinc system.
The phosphate system.
These are original parts from my car.
This shows the finishes except for the zinc phosphate which is a lighter gray than what is on the control arm bushing retainers.
I like the Caswell system very much.
You have to follow the directions carefully and it takes a bit of practice.
It's not at all inexpensive but a good choice for someone who wants to keep control of fasteners and small parts.
If you consider fasteners to be just a bag or container full of fasteners, then sending them to a commercial plater makes sense.
I'm doing cold Black Oxide (the easiest to do), zinc and manganese phosphate (pretty easy to do), and clear zinc and zinc w/ dichromate wash) the most difficult.
I bought the 3 amp rectifier but now wish I'd purchased the 5 amp model which allows larger parts to be plated.
Regards,
Alan
The zinc system.
The phosphate system.
These are original parts from my car.
This shows the finishes except for the zinc phosphate which is a lighter gray than what is on the control arm bushing retainers.
Last edited by Alan 71; 05-22-2017 at 10:15 AM.
#28
Safety Car
Hi h4,
I like the Caswell system very much.
You have to follow the directions carefully and it takes a bit of practice.
It's not at all inexpensive but a good choice for someone who wants to keep control of fasteners and small parts.
If you consider fasteners to be just a bag or container full of fasteners, then sending them to a commercial plater makes sense.
I'm doing cold Black Oxide (the easiest to do), zinc and manganese phosphate (pretty easy to do), and clear zinc and zinc w/ dichromate wash) the most difficult.
I bought the 3 amp rectifier but now wish I'd purchased the 5 amp model which allows larger parts to be plated.
Regards,
Alan
I like the Caswell system very much.
You have to follow the directions carefully and it takes a bit of practice.
It's not at all inexpensive but a good choice for someone who wants to keep control of fasteners and small parts.
If you consider fasteners to be just a bag or container full of fasteners, then sending them to a commercial plater makes sense.
I'm doing cold Black Oxide (the easiest to do), zinc and manganese phosphate (pretty easy to do), and clear zinc and zinc w/ dichromate wash) the most difficult.
I bought the 3 amp rectifier but now wish I'd purchased the 5 amp model which allows larger parts to be plated.
Regards,
Alan
#29
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
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Hi h4c,
I've found the make-up of the steel (I guess its 'alloy') has a big affect on how dark the part actually gets and remains.
I have some fasteners that get very black quickly, while others just get a opaque dark brown.
Also, any plating remnants on the surface seem to defeat the oxide process too.
Everything I read indicates I'm just 'dicking around' with plating when compared to what people who really understand the processes involved are doing.
Regards,
Alan
I've found the make-up of the steel (I guess its 'alloy') has a big affect on how dark the part actually gets and remains.
I have some fasteners that get very black quickly, while others just get a opaque dark brown.
Also, any plating remnants on the surface seem to defeat the oxide process too.
Everything I read indicates I'm just 'dicking around' with plating when compared to what people who really understand the processes involved are doing.
Regards,
Alan
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#30
Melting Slicks
Corvette Central has carburettor zinc di-chromate paint....pretty close.
Last edited by L-46man; 05-22-2017 at 02:37 PM.