74 ignition weak links?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
From: Triangle Area NC
74 starting system weak links?
I'm beginning repair on a tired 74 454 4 speed car. It's got a good engine, tranny and suspension, but the rest is very tired.
I am having intermittent starting problems. From time to time NO start,sounds like nothing to the starter solenoid. From what I understand, these cars have a neutral safety switch, a clutch depress switch and seatbelt buckled interlocks, all in the path of getting power to the starter solenoid.
Is there a typical weak link to this system before I start down this winding road? Any easy way to bypass some of these systems in the problem solving process? Thanks John
I am having intermittent starting problems. From time to time NO start,sounds like nothing to the starter solenoid. From what I understand, these cars have a neutral safety switch, a clutch depress switch and seatbelt buckled interlocks, all in the path of getting power to the starter solenoid.
Is there a typical weak link to this system before I start down this winding road? Any easy way to bypass some of these systems in the problem solving process? Thanks John
Last edited by johnmb; Apr 9, 2009 at 08:43 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
Since you have a 4 speed, you won't have a neutral safety switch.
If you have a volt meter, you can check for 12 v at the solenoid terminal when you turn the ignition to START.
Or, if you have a remote starter switch you can hook it up to the terminal on the solenoid to test the solenoid and starter. If that works but the key doesn't then you pretty much have the ignition switch, the clutch switch and wires.
You can probably jumper across the wires to the clutch switch to eliminate it as the problem. Just make sure you have the car in neutral when you do it. I would depress the clutch as well just to be double sure.
If you still have the problem, you can check for continuity on the wires.
You can also check for 12 v on the ignition switch terminal that goes to the solenoid to check the ignition switch.
One of the above should find your problem.
If you have a volt meter, you can check for 12 v at the solenoid terminal when you turn the ignition to START.
Or, if you have a remote starter switch you can hook it up to the terminal on the solenoid to test the solenoid and starter. If that works but the key doesn't then you pretty much have the ignition switch, the clutch switch and wires.
You can probably jumper across the wires to the clutch switch to eliminate it as the problem. Just make sure you have the car in neutral when you do it. I would depress the clutch as well just to be double sure.
If you still have the problem, you can check for continuity on the wires.
You can also check for 12 v on the ignition switch terminal that goes to the solenoid to check the ignition switch.
One of the above should find your problem.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
From: Triangle Area NC
You're right of course...STARTING system. Never type when you're hungry and dinner is on the table.
Yes, it cranks sometimes, other times it acts as if there's no battery in the car, no click, no nothing. Battery is fine, cables clean, lights work, etc. I guess it could be the ignition switch, the solenoid, the clutch depress switch, the seat belt interlock, etc. Lot's of variables, but I'll check the solenoid first (if I can get some jumper leads up there above the headers).
Yes, it cranks sometimes, other times it acts as if there's no battery in the car, no click, no nothing. Battery is fine, cables clean, lights work, etc. I guess it could be the ignition switch, the solenoid, the clutch depress switch, the seat belt interlock, etc. Lot's of variables, but I'll check the solenoid first (if I can get some jumper leads up there above the headers).
