Need help with how to buy the right C3 Vette
08-02-2009, 11:13 PM
#1
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Need help with how to buy the right C3 Vette
Well I'll admit I'm new at the Corvette scene but I've always wanted a 1969-1972 and now I finally have the money saved to buy one. My dream car is a matching 1970 350/4sp orange or blue coup.
1) Prices online are so varried it's hard to tell what a vehicle is really worth.
2) Are 4 speeds more desireable than automatics.
3) What are the things I need to look out for becasue I don't want to get ripped off becasue I was poorly informed.
I'm looking to fly and test drive a 1970 Blue Coup 350/4sp. The guy wants 22k. I've seen similar vehicles online for 18K. Where is the price point of a matching vehicle like this worth with a nice interior and nice paint.
1970 CORVETTE COUPE T-TOP. MULSANNE BLUE/ BLK VINYL INTERIOR. 350/350,4 SP, A.C, P.S., P.W., T/T WHEEL, AM-FM RADIO, RALLY WHEELS, S/S BRAKES. LESS THAN 1000 MILES SINCE ENGINE REBUILD. PAINT 3 YRS OLD. VERY CORRECT CAR
1) Prices online are so varried it's hard to tell what a vehicle is really worth.
2) Are 4 speeds more desireable than automatics.
3) What are the things I need to look out for becasue I don't want to get ripped off becasue I was poorly informed.
I'm looking to fly and test drive a 1970 Blue Coup 350/4sp. The guy wants 22k. I've seen similar vehicles online for 18K. Where is the price point of a matching vehicle like this worth with a nice interior and nice paint.
1970 CORVETTE COUPE T-TOP. MULSANNE BLUE/ BLK VINYL INTERIOR. 350/350,4 SP, A.C, P.S., P.W., T/T WHEEL, AM-FM RADIO, RALLY WHEELS, S/S BRAKES. LESS THAN 1000 MILES SINCE ENGINE REBUILD. PAINT 3 YRS OLD. VERY CORRECT CAR
08-03-2009, 01:06 AM
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You are going to get a lot of repsonses on this but one thing I would suggest is getting it up on a lift and take a very close look at the underside. The birdcage is going to be one area you definitely want to look at. You can look at it without the car being on a lift though. I would say that the 4 spd is more desireable. I have a '81 with a automatic and I love my car but the next one to join it in the garage will definitely be a 4 spd. Make sure the person you are buying from has all supporting documentation on repairs and such things as that so that you can verify everything he is saying has been done to the car. Good luck with whatever you find out there. I will be looking for one in the '70-'72 era in the next couple of years or so. Beautiful cars.
08-03-2009, 10:43 AM
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08-03-2009, 05:54 PM
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Hi A8,
If you don't know very much about 69-72 Corvettes I think you need to find someone who is VERY knowledgeable, in the area where the 70 is located, to look at the car with you.
Old Corvettes (and Corvette sellers) can be very deceiving. I'm not trying to scare you, just trying to encourage you to get some guidance.
Regards,
Alan
If you don't know very much about 69-72 Corvettes I think you need to find someone who is VERY knowledgeable, in the area where the 70 is located, to look at the car with you.
Old Corvettes (and Corvette sellers) can be very deceiving. I'm not trying to scare you, just trying to encourage you to get some guidance.
Regards,
Alan
08-03-2009, 06:53 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Rust Rust Rust. Watch out for Rust. It is what turns a decent car into a parts car. Check the frame and birdcage for rust. It is a very good idea to take someone with you that knows there stuff about Vettes. If you post the location of the car on the forum, someone from here might be able to meet you there and help you look it over.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
08-03-2009, 07:10 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
My neighbor told me last night as he was looking at my 71 with the body on a dolly in the driveway and the chassis in the garage with the engine and trans removed, "now you can have YOUR dream car". He said if I'd have bought one already restored, I'd have someone elses dream car 
08-03-2009, 07:22 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Assuming the car is good - the specs are quite nice.
Same car in a convertable with AC, and a blue interior would be worth a bit more, than a coupe with black interior. Agreed with all to get a veteran to check it out with you.
-W
Same car in a convertable with AC, and a blue interior would be worth a bit more, than a coupe with black interior. Agreed with all to get a veteran to check it out with you.
-W
08-04-2009, 12:23 AM
#8
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Thanks for all the god info. It's great to see some many people trying to help a newbee like myself. I spoke to the guy today and he said he's owned it since 2001 and had it repainted and put over 8k in the car. He aslo stated he won't budge off of 22k and that he believes the car is worth 30k in a better economy. He also said it was rust free. Here are a few pics.
Last question has anyone ever used USCORVETTES to buy a corvette? I saw the website and thought about giving them a call. Anyone heard about thier reputation. Thanks
Last question has anyone ever used USCORVETTES to buy a corvette? I saw the website and thought about giving them a call. Anyone heard about thier reputation. Thanks
08-04-2009, 01:22 AM
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Hi A8,
If you don't know very much about 69-72 Corvettes I think you need to find someone who is VERY knowledgeable, in the area where the 70 is located, to look at the car with you.
Old Corvettes (and Corvette sellers) can be very deceiving. I'm not trying to scare you, just trying to encourage you to get some guidance.
Regards,
Alan
If you don't know very much about 69-72 Corvettes I think you need to find someone who is VERY knowledgeable, in the area where the 70 is located, to look at the car with you.
Old Corvettes (and Corvette sellers) can be very deceiving. I'm not trying to scare you, just trying to encourage you to get some guidance.
Regards,
Alan
Alan is wise on this. I bought a 74 auto. I love my car but should have had someone with vette experience look with me. I was in the market, sounds wierd, for a 74 specifically. Getting assistance will definitely help.I believe 4 sped manual is much more desireable and wish mine was.
Check the for sale section here also.
Good luck and welcome
Frank
08-04-2009, 01:32 AM
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Last question has anyone ever used USCORVETTES to buy a corvette? I saw the website and thought about giving them a call. Anyone heard about thier reputation. Thanks[/QUOTE
yes i did use them once, bought it sight un seen, they gave me alot if information about the car, but they were not totally truthfull!!! i ended up having to do alot of work on the car that they told me was already done.
be carefull when looking, always see the car yourself, and if possible, have someone with you that is very experienced with corvettes.
Jim
yes i did use them once, bought it sight un seen, they gave me alot if information about the car, but they were not totally truthfull!!! i ended up having to do alot of work on the car that they told me was already done.
be carefull when looking, always see the car yourself, and if possible, have someone with you that is very experienced with corvettes.
Jim
08-04-2009, 07:14 AM
#12
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I bought a corvette buyers guide, and a corvette blackbook, went to shows, asked questions started hanging out at local corvette clubs (although I never joined one) and soon I started compiling a list of things I knew I wanted and what to watch out for.
I too, knew I wanted a bumper car/shark 68-72 and there are alot of them out there. Alot have issues, and there are some great deals out there. You just have to be in the right place at the right time and know what you're looking for.
The fall of the year you will start seeing some great deals, or at least I always did. Happy hunting!
Bob
I too, knew I wanted a bumper car/shark 68-72 and there are alot of them out there. Alot have issues, and there are some great deals out there. You just have to be in the right place at the right time and know what you're looking for.
The fall of the year you will start seeing some great deals, or at least I always did. Happy hunting!
Bob
08-04-2009, 07:51 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
08-04-2009, 08:03 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
Having just successfully completed this kind of search, here's what I would recommend:
1. Look at a lot of cars in-person. That will give you a good sense of what's available for what price.
2. Research all the posts on this topic on this forum. There is a wealth of information and a lot of valuable experience on this board.
3. Wait for the car you want. There are a lot of these cars out there, and new ones are popping up for sale all the time. While you may have to wait a bit, you will come across the car you want for your price-range.
4. Be clear about what is negotiable and non-negotiable in looking for a car. For me, I wanted a big-block, but I would gladly take a small-block car in extraordinary shape. I was open to either a convertible or t-top, but wanted a light-color interior. I could have dealt with a faded paint-job, but the frame had to be rust-free. Be ready to pass on a car that fails on the non-negotiables, even if it has other very desireable traits.
5. Be ready to buy. If a good deal shows up, it sells VERY quickly. Overpriced cars will linger unsold for months, but you have to be ready to jump on the good ones when they appear.
6. Buy the best car you can afford. I don't think it's ever cheaper to fix up a cheap car than to pay more for a better car.
1. Look at a lot of cars in-person. That will give you a good sense of what's available for what price.
2. Research all the posts on this topic on this forum. There is a wealth of information and a lot of valuable experience on this board.
3. Wait for the car you want. There are a lot of these cars out there, and new ones are popping up for sale all the time. While you may have to wait a bit, you will come across the car you want for your price-range.
4. Be clear about what is negotiable and non-negotiable in looking for a car. For me, I wanted a big-block, but I would gladly take a small-block car in extraordinary shape. I was open to either a convertible or t-top, but wanted a light-color interior. I could have dealt with a faded paint-job, but the frame had to be rust-free. Be ready to pass on a car that fails on the non-negotiables, even if it has other very desireable traits.
5. Be ready to buy. If a good deal shows up, it sells VERY quickly. Overpriced cars will linger unsold for months, but you have to be ready to jump on the good ones when they appear.
6. Buy the best car you can afford. I don't think it's ever cheaper to fix up a cheap car than to pay more for a better car.
08-04-2009, 10:44 AM
#15
Team Owner
IF the car you described above is in good condition, with little rust and is as original as stated, $22K is not unreasonable. You can always offer less and 'dicker' with the price; very few folks advertise the lowest amount they will accept. Start at $17K and work up slowly.
On the other hand, if the car is NOT as advertised, look it over carefully for the experience and either take a pass on it or offer significantly lower, if you are still interested. If it has significant rust on frame/birdcage, skip it altogether.
On the other hand, if the car is NOT as advertised, look it over carefully for the experience and either take a pass on it or offer significantly lower, if you are still interested. If it has significant rust on frame/birdcage, skip it altogether.
08-04-2009, 12:41 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
This 70 sounds like a great find with nice options.
Here's a few things to look for:
Check for rust in the frame and kick-ups, area in front of the rear wheels where the frame goes up & over the rear suspension & bird cage. Surface rust is ok. When you lightly tap it with a hammer it should have a metallic ping. If bad rust it will sound more like a dull thud.
The bird cage is the steel frame around the passenger compartment. Look for rust along the windshield pillars, viewed from outside the car. Also pull the kick panels (down on the sides by your feet) inside the car to see what the body mounts look like and if there's just surface rust or serious rot, if the owner will permit you to.
If you can get it up on a lift and let the wheels hang so you can check the front & rear wheel bearings. Grab the 12 & 6 o'clock positions on the tires and pull back and forth to see if there's any movement. Front bearings are an easy replacement, but the rear is much more involved and costly to repair.
Check engine for visible oil leaks around the valve covers & oil pan.
Just a few things to look for when you check it out.
The radiator support is another rust prone area to check. Replacements run around 300-350 and are a PITA to remove & replace.
Check headlight operation and wiper door and that they open fairly quickly. Vacuum system issues are common.
Ask to see all repair & maintenance receipts.
Remember, ALWAYS buy the best car you can afford. Post some Pics if you can. This will help us give you a better evaluation.
Glenn
This is the "Bird Cage" if you don't know what it is.
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/juliet/rearsusp.htm
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...home&pageID=11
Good luck!
Here's a few things to look for:
Check for rust in the frame and kick-ups, area in front of the rear wheels where the frame goes up & over the rear suspension & bird cage. Surface rust is ok. When you lightly tap it with a hammer it should have a metallic ping. If bad rust it will sound more like a dull thud.
The bird cage is the steel frame around the passenger compartment. Look for rust along the windshield pillars, viewed from outside the car. Also pull the kick panels (down on the sides by your feet) inside the car to see what the body mounts look like and if there's just surface rust or serious rot, if the owner will permit you to.
If you can get it up on a lift and let the wheels hang so you can check the front & rear wheel bearings. Grab the 12 & 6 o'clock positions on the tires and pull back and forth to see if there's any movement. Front bearings are an easy replacement, but the rear is much more involved and costly to repair.
Check engine for visible oil leaks around the valve covers & oil pan.
Just a few things to look for when you check it out.
The radiator support is another rust prone area to check. Replacements run around 300-350 and are a PITA to remove & replace.
Check headlight operation and wiper door and that they open fairly quickly. Vacuum system issues are common.
Ask to see all repair & maintenance receipts.
Remember, ALWAYS buy the best car you can afford. Post some Pics if you can. This will help us give you a better evaluation.
Glenn
This is the "Bird Cage" if you don't know what it is.
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/juliet/rearsusp.htm
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...home&pageID=11
Good luck!
08-04-2009, 06:02 PM
#18
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So I'm going to look at this car on the weekend of the 22nd of August in Kansas City. He's a deal for any Corvette guru that lives in the area. I'm an active duty USMC Pilot and will be conducting the Harrier (yea, the one that hovers like in the movie "True Lies") demonstration flight for the Kansas City Airshow that weekend. If you are a guy who can look at a car for me an let me know if its a good deal and has the savvy corvette eyes I can give you and your family or friends free tickets to see the Airshow in Kansas City. I'll also give you a chance to hop in and look at the jet and I'll buy the beers all weekend. Any takers??? 21-23 August in Kansas City.
08-04-2009, 06:34 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Don't forget to look into 68's, 68's and 69's seem to be the most sought after c3's then 70-72's
one year only items make a nice 68 car worth a lot kinda like a nice 58 wit hte one year oly venter hood, tach & chrome pieces on the back.
here is a 68..I love this pic!
one year only items make a nice 68 car worth a lot kinda like a nice 58 wit hte one year oly venter hood, tach & chrome pieces on the back.
here is a 68..I love this pic!
08-04-2009, 08:52 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
Somewhere along the line the ulimate American muscle car that was the 1968-69, slowly evolved into the gutless, automatic only, power seated, Grand Turismo known as the '82. Not saying you can't whip a 1982 into shape... but the 68-69 come out of the chute ready for combat.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; 08-04-2009 at 09:00 PM.