Center Gauge Cluster Assembly
12-29-2009, 08:25 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Gents - I did forget to remove the extra E2... will do tonight.
Roger - look at my last set of pictures - the third one - you can see the texture of the Amp gauge paint in it - but notice it is not as obvious in other photos ...
Otherwise - interesting discussion.
Roger - look at my last set of pictures - the third one - you can see the texture of the Amp gauge paint in it - but notice it is not as obvious in other photos ...
Otherwise - interesting discussion.
Last edited by kaiserbud; 12-29-2009 at 08:41 AM.
12-29-2009, 09:58 AM
#22
Race Director
Looks like your close to re-installation.
12-29-2009, 10:50 AM
#23
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hey Rog - yeah - its the paint on the restoration - and although you 'can' see it.... (and I am too picky)... its all good. As you can see in the previous photos - it mostly does not show. But it is a markedly rougher finish. 
Yes - I am going to try to ''bench test' teh gauge set next - I am thinking that I can use ya'lls troubleshooting pdf to do so.
On the mechanical Oil gauge, I did not tape the hole over the years and hope nothing is in the hole. I will stick a vaccuum cleaner nozzle to the fitting. But - I would think sending 'controlled' air pressure to it would work... ????
Yes - I am going to try to ''bench test' teh gauge set next - I am thinking that I can use ya'lls troubleshooting pdf to do so.
On the mechanical Oil gauge, I did not tape the hole over the years and hope nothing is in the hole. I will stick a vaccuum cleaner nozzle to the fitting. But - I would think sending 'controlled' air pressure to it would work... ????
Last edited by kaiserbud; 12-29-2009 at 10:44 PM.
12-29-2009, 06:53 PM
#25
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Of all the wiring diagrams I've looked at the 68 is the worsts I've ever seen. It has wires changing color when they don't, wrong color wires and so on.. Makes it hard to use. This was one reason I re-drew the 68 wiper diagram... I have another one done to replace the old rude looking one, but I've not put it up on the site.
Yes that would mean the dash lights are on the bulb would be hot. Gray in most cases would be the dash lamp circuit.
The faces on all gauges should be smooth free of ripples with a black satin finish. There is a restoration shop doing re-faces that seems to have a problem with the black finish. I'm not sure why but I've seen some gauges in our shop with this ripple in them. It's not really a big deal since you will likely never notice this in the car.
There is a detailed sheet on the web site on how to clean out and/or repair the oil pressure gauge. http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...repair_new.pdf. If you use a aerosol cleaner with a spray nozzle sometimes you can actually get the gauge to give you reading when you spray it out.. You have to be careful about what you use since the gauge is back in the car and it can damage the clear lens. Brake dry with a nozzle seems to work pretty good.
If you do try this, the brake dry will shoot out the back of the gauge and go everywhere. Wrap up and protect the gauge housing from the off spray and were some protective cover on your eyes.
Willcox
12-29-2009, 10:41 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The faces on all gauges should be smooth free of ripples with a black satin finish. There is a restoration shop doing re-faces that seems to have a problem with the black finish. I'm not sure why but I've seen some gauges in our shop with this ripple in them. It's not really a big deal since you will likely never notice this in the car. I am glad you also noticed - thought I was fulfilling the '****' name they call me at work "Corvette Owner"
There is a detailed sheet on the web site on how to clean out and/or repair the oil pressure gauge. http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...repair_new.pdf. If you use a aerosol cleaner with a spray nozzle sometimes you can actually get the gauge to give you reading when you spray it out.. You have to be careful about what you use since the gauge is back in the car and it can damage the clear lens. Brake dry with a nozzle seems to work pretty good. Thanks - I will check it out. Good deal that you have these sheets - great support
If you do try this, the brake dry will shoot out the back of the gauge and go everywhere. Wrap up and protect the gauge housing from the off spray and were some protective cover on your eyes.
Willcox
There is a detailed sheet on the web site on how to clean out and/or repair the oil pressure gauge. http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...repair_new.pdf. If you use a aerosol cleaner with a spray nozzle sometimes you can actually get the gauge to give you reading when you spray it out.. You have to be careful about what you use since the gauge is back in the car and it can damage the clear lens. Brake dry with a nozzle seems to work pretty good. Thanks - I will check it out. Good deal that you have these sheets - great support
If you do try this, the brake dry will shoot out the back of the gauge and go everywhere. Wrap up and protect the gauge housing from the off spray and were some protective cover on your eyes.
Willcox
Also - just thought we could use 'canned air' - like you use to clean computer parts?
What is Brake Dry?
01-06-2014, 05:47 PM
#27
Advanced
Gauges are looking good.
The odd thing I spoke of was about the rusty old cluster I posted. If you look it doesn't have a hole for a bulb for the Headlamps indicator.
( Nothing to do with your gauges. )
Temp gauge at 9:00. Thats normal for sitting on the bench. When the gauge gets power it will change.
("IF" you had power to the gauge and it was at 9:00 that would mean the wire to the temp sender in the head was unhooked.)
The clock capacitor. I think its bolted to the correct spot but the brass end on the black wire will slide inside the power wire when you put it on the clock spade. The cap should stop the clicking when the clock rewinds when on AM radio.
Can't really see the texture in the pic of the amp meter
The odd thing I spoke of was about the rusty old cluster I posted. If you look it doesn't have a hole for a bulb for the Headlamps indicator.
( Nothing to do with your gauges. )
Temp gauge at 9:00. Thats normal for sitting on the bench. When the gauge gets power it will change.
("IF" you had power to the gauge and it was at 9:00 that would mean the wire to the temp sender in the head was unhooked.)
The clock capacitor. I think its bolted to the correct spot but the brass end on the black wire will slide inside the power wire when you put it on the clock spade. The cap should stop the clicking when the clock rewinds when on AM radio.
Can't really see the texture in the pic of the amp meter
I'm reworking my center instrument cluster on 69 and found this informative thread... Got a question, changing my factory clock for a quartz clock do I still need the capacitor hooked to the power terminal of the clock?
