'68 Vs '69
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 8,950
Likes: 4
From: Lafayette LA
'68 Vs '69
I'm in the market for my first C3. I am only considering original body 68-72s (with manual transmission). I really prefer the 68-69 gills and round turn signals. I have heard & read to stay clear of the 68 due to so many one-year-only features that are hard to find or super expensive should they need replacing.
My question is, can the 68-only parts easily be replaced with 69 and later parts? I am not restoring a car, I am looking for a nice driver. Other than exterior appearance, originality does not matter to me at all.
Here are the differences I know about:
Ignition switch on dash.
Can't be that expensive to fix if necessary?
No map pocket on passenger side
Doesn't matter to me either way
Different door panels
Do the 69-later panels fit with no mods?
Panel around shifter looks different
Do the later panels fit?
Push button exterior door handle.
Can these easily be converted to 69-82 handles & locks
Larger steering wheel.
Later stock smaller steering wheels are fine with me, but will they fit the 68 column?
327 instead of 350
NOM is fine with me
7" rally wheels instead of later 8"
Easy fix here. Either width wheels are fine with me. I'm not trying to match numbers or date codes.
What other differences are there that I don't know about?
My question is, can the 68-only parts easily be replaced with 69 and later parts? I am not restoring a car, I am looking for a nice driver. Other than exterior appearance, originality does not matter to me at all.
Here are the differences I know about:
Ignition switch on dash.
Can't be that expensive to fix if necessary?
No map pocket on passenger side
Doesn't matter to me either way
Different door panels
Do the 69-later panels fit with no mods?
Panel around shifter looks different
Do the later panels fit?
Push button exterior door handle.
Can these easily be converted to 69-82 handles & locks
Larger steering wheel.
Later stock smaller steering wheels are fine with me, but will they fit the 68 column?
327 instead of 350
NOM is fine with me
7" rally wheels instead of later 8"
Easy fix here. Either width wheels are fine with me. I'm not trying to match numbers or date codes.
What other differences are there that I don't know about?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 8
From: Charlotte (Area) North Carolina
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 8,950
Likes: 4
From: Lafayette LA
For example, if I bought a 68 with cracked door panels. Would I have to shell out big bucks and scour the planet for one year only door panels, or could I just use the later door panels?
I can't afford an already restored car. All of the cars in my price range need TLC.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
In my opinion, search for a '69. Know how much money you intend to spend. They're all fun and require maintenance which equals additional funds.
Now go to Prejean's and have some crawfish, boudin and alligator.
Travis
Now go to Prejean's and have some crawfish, boudin and alligator.
Travis
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 8,950
Likes: 4
From: Lafayette LA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,397
Likes: 649
From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
They're similar enough, look at both years and get whichever one is the best buy in terms of colours/options that you want. That way you've got twice as many to choose from and are more likely to find a good buy on exactly what you're after.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,447
Likes: 3
From: Syracuse NY
I'm in the market for my first C3. I am only considering original body 68-72s (with manual transmission). I really prefer the 68-69 gills and round turn signals. I have heard & read to stay clear of the 68 due to so many one-year-only features that are hard to find or super expensive should they need replacing.
My question is, can the 68-only parts easily be replaced with 69 and later parts? I am not restoring a car, I am looking for a nice driver. Other than exterior appearance, originality does not matter to me at all.
Here are the differences I know about:
Ignition switch on dash.
Can't be that expensive to fix if necessary? New '68 switch is only about $55
No map pocket on passenger side
Doesn't matter to me either way
Different door panels
Do the 69-later panels fit with no mods?Yes
Panel around shifter looks different
Do the later panels fit?Yes
Push button exterior door handle.
Can these easily be converted to 69-82 handles & locks
This one might be tough but I did read a thread awhile back where a member modified the lock assembly using a later year lock
Larger steering wheel.
Later stock smaller steering wheels are fine with me, but will they fit the 68 column? Not sure if a later stock wheel will bolt on but if not there is always after-market wheels
327 instead of 350
NOM is fine with me
7" rally wheels instead of later 8"
Easy fix here. Either width wheels are fine with me. I'm not trying to match numbers or date codes.
What other differences are there that I don't know about?
My question is, can the 68-only parts easily be replaced with 69 and later parts? I am not restoring a car, I am looking for a nice driver. Other than exterior appearance, originality does not matter to me at all.
Here are the differences I know about:
Ignition switch on dash.
Can't be that expensive to fix if necessary? New '68 switch is only about $55
No map pocket on passenger side
Doesn't matter to me either way
Different door panels
Do the 69-later panels fit with no mods?Yes
Panel around shifter looks different
Do the later panels fit?Yes
Push button exterior door handle.
Can these easily be converted to 69-82 handles & locks
This one might be tough but I did read a thread awhile back where a member modified the lock assembly using a later year lock
Larger steering wheel.
Later stock smaller steering wheels are fine with me, but will they fit the 68 column? Not sure if a later stock wheel will bolt on but if not there is always after-market wheels
327 instead of 350
NOM is fine with me
7" rally wheels instead of later 8"
Easy fix here. Either width wheels are fine with me. I'm not trying to match numbers or date codes.
What other differences are there that I don't know about?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
There is no reason to avoid a '68. Just check out the "odd" features to make sure they work well. They are essentially the same vehicle except for the items you mentioned. If you find a '68 in your price range that looks good and checks out, buy it. 
P.S. Something to consider in your search is that '68-'70 had higher compression engines which may...or may not...run well on today's hi-test pump gas. The '71 & '72 (and later) engines had lower compression and will run on today's regular [base engines] or hi-test [perf. engines]. The '70 and up years also had flares built into them behind each wheelwell to keep the 'road rash' from eating up the under body panels. That's why I opted for a '71 or '72 when I was looking.
P.S. Something to consider in your search is that '68-'70 had higher compression engines which may...or may not...run well on today's hi-test pump gas. The '71 & '72 (and later) engines had lower compression and will run on today's regular [base engines] or hi-test [perf. engines]. The '70 and up years also had flares built into them behind each wheelwell to keep the 'road rash' from eating up the under body panels. That's why I opted for a '71 or '72 when I was looking.
CF Community Team
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From: Cape Cod, Mass.
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When I was shopping for a C3 a few years ago, all I wanted was a 68 or a 69 because I wanted a 427. I found a well sorted out 68 Lemans blue 427/390 coupe and love it. Lots of 1 year only features which I think distinguish the car. Door panels, seat covers and many of the other parts are readily available. Some are not. I've driven both and basically they are the same car except for a few minor changes for 69. You can't go wrong with either year as long as you do your homework and buy a nice car. Good luck
Racer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 251
Likes: 3
From: Louisville Kentucky
68 doors
This is what I know from experience. I have been mislead on this forum in regards to 68/69 doors.
The inner door panel on a 68 is not interchangable with 69 door panels. The door pulls on the 2 years are completely different. If you try the 69 panel on the 68 door you will not have screws to hold the door pull to door.
Also, you cannot convert a 68 push button to the 69 style. I even tried to swap door skins and this would not work. The 68 has a completely different door frame that interferes with the 69 style mechanism.
With that being said 69 style doors are easily found and you could replace the entire door. Plus you should be able to sell the 68 doors for quite a bit more than you could buy the 69's.
Find the best car possible. You will not regret buying a 68 actually the uniqueness grows on you. The 68 doors really set the car apart from the rest of the C3's. IF you get a 68 be sure to join the social group here on the forum "68 owners unite".
The inner door panel on a 68 is not interchangable with 69 door panels. The door pulls on the 2 years are completely different. If you try the 69 panel on the 68 door you will not have screws to hold the door pull to door.
Also, you cannot convert a 68 push button to the 69 style. I even tried to swap door skins and this would not work. The 68 has a completely different door frame that interferes with the 69 style mechanism.
With that being said 69 style doors are easily found and you could replace the entire door. Plus you should be able to sell the 68 doors for quite a bit more than you could buy the 69's.
Find the best car possible. You will not regret buying a 68 actually the uniqueness grows on you. The 68 doors really set the car apart from the rest of the C3's. IF you get a 68 be sure to join the social group here on the forum "68 owners unite".
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 8,950
Likes: 4
From: Lafayette LA
Sounds like I can expand my search into the 68s.
In my price range, I doubt I will be buying anything with an original motor anyway. I would like to stay under 14K. I'm looking for something with no body damage, decent (not show quality) paint, and no birdcage rust.
I'll pay a little more for a car with flawless paint and body if it's a good color.
Interior work is easy. I can do any of that myself, so an interior that needs a little work won't run my off. Same with mechanical problems. I can fix things. I just can't do body work, painting, or welding.
I would even consider a car with frame rot if the birdcage somehow wasn't rusted. I would expect to pay less, and with the money saved I would buy an SRIII frame.
I'll pay a little more for a car with flawless paint and body if it's a good color.
Interior work is easy. I can do any of that myself, so an interior that needs a little work won't run my off. Same with mechanical problems. I can fix things. I just can't do body work, painting, or welding.
I would even consider a car with frame rot if the birdcage somehow wasn't rusted. I would expect to pay less, and with the money saved I would buy an SRIII frame.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 13,238
Likes: 1,092
From: YANKEES UNIVERSE 70 454-LS5 500 ft-lbs Torque
If you dont mind the 68 or 69 as you like both,than i would buy the better of the two regardless of the one year only items of the 68.As someone said previously if you want a 68 than buy the 68.Right now is a good time to buy as plenty are available.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 13,178
Likes: 99
From: West Chester OH
2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Cruise-In IX Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08 thru '13
I bought a 68 because it was the first car that met my needs (no restoration needed, no rust)
If you find a 68 with the one year only parts, their availability isn't an issue.
Another 68 only - back up lights on the lower rear valence instead of in the tail lights
Good luck with your search.
If you find a 68 with the one year only parts, their availability isn't an issue.
Another 68 only - back up lights on the lower rear valence instead of in the tail lights
Good luck with your search.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
If you buy a '68 or '69 because of "desirability" and it doesn't have the original engine....forget it. It is no more valuable than a '70-72. On the other hand, in today's market, you may be able to pick up a '72 coupe with the original engine for around $15K. If it needs mechanical work on the steering/brakes/suspension, you can probably get it for less [since you can do that work]. But, unless you can shoot your own paint, buy one with a paint job that you can live with; re-doing the paint is an expensive proposition.