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Willcox Wiper Motor Testing Video done! 68 and 69-72

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Old 02-19-2010, 08:21 PM
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0Willcox Corvette
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Default Willcox Wiper Motor Testing Video done! 68 and 69-72

Ok.. now I've gone and done it..

I hope this helps people with motor problems.. I think if you watch this, and download all the info pages off the web site you should be able to fix your motor or at least diagnosis it as the problem. You can find these pages listed under the Repair and Install Help Section of our site. http://www.willcoxcorvette.com

1968


1969-1972


1973-1982 <--- 73-82 will test exactly the same as the 69-72 with the exception being the 12 volt input wire. You won't have one. All you need is to make sure the case is grounded and you apply 12 volts to the center terminal. Then jump the grounds as shown in the video and the motor should run.

18243

Willcox Inc.

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 03-17-2012 at 10:15 AM.
Old 02-20-2010, 01:52 AM
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DZRick
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Excellent!

You just made my Christmas card list Ernie.
Old 02-20-2010, 02:09 AM
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Thanks Rick!

I'm still working on all of them. I'm going to edit these and put the diagrams and pictures in with them.. I hope..

The vids are a ton of work for me since I'm very lacking in experience with them. I don't like to do the edits....

I had to put something up. I'm getting about 20 wiper motor emails a week.. combine this with tach questions and this alone is becoming a load!

Ernie
Old 02-20-2010, 02:27 AM
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DZRick
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I'm only going to pick your brain to save me the trouble of taking everything apart again.
Would you care to guess what caused my '68 motor to quit during my inspection? I turned the switch on, the door opened and the wipers came on, blades went half way up the windshield then quit.
I didn't care because I try to stay out of the rain but I want everything to work now.
If it's just a matter of me needing to test everything using all your papers and now the video so be it, but if you can keep me from tearing into my dash/console again you'll get on the gift list as well.

I hope everyone appreciates all the trouble you go to.

Last edited by DZRick; 02-20-2010 at 02:29 AM.
Old 02-20-2010, 07:34 AM
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GPGG70
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Mr. Ernie Dear sir, You just made my day this morning.
The last test for when the motor is running and clicking is what my motor on my coupe is doing. So when I get back to that project I now know that it's a ground problem.
So see all that hard work you put in to providing us vette owners with this video has paid for it self, well for me it has and I thank you very much.
Old 02-20-2010, 08:04 AM
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Ernie,
That was great. Just watched the 69-72 video with my morning coffee. You're a great asset here on the forum!
Glenn
Old 02-20-2010, 10:39 AM
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Very humbling guys thank you!

DZ.

Ok.. watched this again this morning trying to isolate your problem. Here are my jot notes... And argggg I think I need to take the 68 video one more step. "chicken or egg thing".

Cant be the Brown wire. If you have a break in the brown wire the solenoid would lose power which would then put vacuum to the relay and move the door enough to release the limit switch. This in turn would cut ground to the motor. This would stop it mid stream.... but it can't be this because then the door would have come down on the arms and you'd have noticed it. This was why the wiper arm switch was installed on the 69-72 cars.

If the green wire was broken the motor would not have stopped it would have ran in high speed and if green wire is good and the break was in the blue wire the motor would have parked.

It cant be the yellow wire.. if it's removed the motor parks.

Blue and green wires removed with power on red and yellow give you a run/click on non stopping motor.

Maybe a break in the red wire from the headlamp switch. This is a constant 12 volt wire. Motor stops instantly.

Before you do anything, make sure the black ground on the blower motor circuit is good! Then, if I had to guess.... I'd go with the limit switch ground next. 68 people have it ruff since parts on the 68 work different than the 69-72. The limit switch is not a power breaking switch on the 68, it is a ground breaking switch and when this ground is lost the motor stops instantly... but remember if the ground is gone the motor stops and when the motor stops you lose power on the brown wire to the tach solenoid... Ha Ha.. see round and round we go. See chicken or the egg again.

So verify the brown/white stripe wire is a good ground at the limit switch connector, then make sure you have continuity on the limit switch and make sure your ground is passing thru the limit switch. If you have this ground working fine, and you have the blower motor ground about the only other thing that would make it stop mid stream would be the red power wire from the headlamp switch.

You just need to get at these wires and see. You know.... last resort.. the motor may be bad too!

Just a note that I caught walking through this with my coffee.. look at the voltage output changes on the brown wire when both the blue and the green are removed.. 8-12 up and down.. another diagnostic tool.

Thank you again for the kind words!

Ernie :o

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 02-20-2010 at 10:42 AM.
Old 02-20-2010, 10:48 AM
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shmoky
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GREAT video. With all the papers and this video anyone (even Me) should be able to fix/repair the wipers now.

copied--pasted--saved 2X

shmoky
Old 02-20-2010, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Very humbling guys thank you!

DZ.

Ok.. watched this again this morning trying to isolate your problem. Here are my jot notes... And argggg I think I need to take the 68 video one more step. "chicken or egg thing".

Cant be the Brown wire. If you have a break in the brown wire the solenoid would lose power which would then put vacuum to the relay and move the door enough to release the limit switch. This in turn would cut ground to the motor. This would stop it mid stream.... but it can't be this because then the door would have come down on the arms and you'd have noticed it. This was why the wiper arm switch was installed on the 69-72 cars.

If the green wire was broken the motor would not have stopped it would have ran in high speed and if green wire is good and the break was in the blue wire the motor would have parked.

It cant be the yellow wire.. if it's removed the motor parks.

Blue and green wires removed with power on red and yellow give you a run/click on non stopping motor.

Maybe a break in the red wire from the headlamp switch. This is a constant 12 volt wire. Motor stops instantly.

Before you do anything, make sure the black ground on the blower motor circuit is good! Then, if I had to guess.... I'd go with the limit switch ground next. 68 people have it ruff since parts on the 68 work different than the 69-72. The limit switch is not a power breaking switch on the 68, it is a ground breaking switch and when this ground is lost the motor stops instantly... but remember if the ground is gone the motor stops and when the motor stops you lose power on the brown wire to the tach solenoid... Ha Ha.. see round and round we go. See chicken or the egg again.

So verify the brown/white stripe wire is a good ground at the limit switch connector, then make sure you have continuity on the limit switch and make sure your ground is passing thru the limit switch. If you have this ground working fine, and you have the blower motor ground about the only other thing that would make it stop mid stream would be the red power wire from the headlamp switch.

You just need to get at these wires and see. You know.... last resort.. the motor may be bad too!

Just a note that I caught walking through this with my coffee.. look at the voltage output changes on the brown wire when both the blue and the green are removed.. 8-12 up and down.. another diagnostic tool.

Thank you again for the kind words!

Ernie :o
Good God, Ernie.
I'm almost sorry I asked, that had to take you as long as writing one of your troubleshooting papers if not longer.
I will put it to good use though and I will have working wipers this year, thanks to you.
Old 02-20-2010, 12:05 PM
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ernie, many thanks to the wiper god,ill be checking your videos as soon as i finish this note. but i still need the 3 prong terminal board with resister. long live ernie
Old 02-20-2010, 07:06 PM
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Rick..

I was no problem, it spurred an itch in my mind and I couldn't let it go.

Tom-

You should be able to get this terminal and resistor off a yard motor. Most older passenger cars used a similar motor and terminal board.




Ernie
Old 02-21-2010, 01:12 PM
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bump
Old 02-23-2010, 09:37 PM
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last bump for these..
Old 02-24-2010, 10:53 AM
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Simply awesome... this sure does make thing easier.
Old 02-24-2010, 09:28 PM
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Thanks Majic!

If I can shake this cold.. well do more of these real soon!

Willcox
Old 02-25-2010, 04:59 PM
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Missed this before today, Ernie. You da Man.

I have your file for my car printed off but it just came to life watching the video. Many Thanks for taking the time and posting up the perfect way to bench test these motors.

I don't think your editing skills lack at all: easy to follow and on the mark.
Old 02-26-2010, 06:57 PM
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Thanks Dustup-

Just make sure the copy you have off the site is the newest copy too!

We changed the 68 and the 69-72 files. (69-72 was changed about two months ago), 68 two weeks ago.

Ernie

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Old 02-26-2010, 07:20 PM
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Excellent....these should be made a sticky.
Old 02-27-2010, 11:35 PM
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Now that is a thought! So many people have problems with these. I may add the 73-82 motor next.

Willcox
Old 02-28-2010, 04:50 AM
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Fortunately I don't have a problem with my '72 wiper motor at the moment but how can I save the video for future reference.
Twelve months down the track I won't remember this.
Willcox have been great to me I have bought many parts from them and their service from an overseas buyer has been first class.


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