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How do you adjust camber of rear wheels?
I have replaced alot of the rear suspension and car sits great but when I roll it around in and out of the garage the passenger tire bows in and the bottom out
Pics or advice on adjustment please
k
When You adjust these bolts, if the wheels are of the ground.You should adjust till You have about 5 degrees of positive camber, or leaning out at the top of the tire. Once the car is on the ground move it 5 or 10 feet it will pull the tires back in to hopefully around -0.5 degrees.
I forgot to mention that those bolts need to be really tight. I think 175 ft lbs but not 100% sure? I just had my car aligned last week and after 2 days the driver side slipped. They got me a new bolt and its holding so far.Hopefully You post some pics after Your done.
Loosen the nut on the side that is showing. Then make the adjustment by using a socket and breaker bar on the other side. When you get it where you want it, tighten the nut on the side that is showing.
Life savers. Had my front tires swapped to the back today because they were bigger in the front than in the back. Felt the back passenger tire rubbing on the way home, parked the car and noticed the negative camber. Checked to make sure nothing was broken and called the tire shop back and asked if they seen anything out of the ordinary. They then told me that it was just misaligned but didnt tell me before I left??? Then wanted to charge 200 bucks for a alignment.
Good question, great info on torque spec, what side to loosen and tighten and what degree to look for. I need all of that dialed in on my 69 project. I am assuming all of this is easier with the car lifted of the ground a touch.
Hi D,
I wasn't aware that there was a "thick serrated washer" that was part of the camber adjustment hardware.
Is that something that's 68 only?
Regards,
Alan
Are you referring to the 'caps' that that fit against the sleeves in the rod at it's end that's used with the cam bolt.?
Hi D,
I wasn't aware that there was a "thick serrated washer" that was part of the camber adjustment hardware.
Is that something that's 68 only?
Regards,
Alan
Are you referring to the 'caps' that that fit against the sleeves in the rod at it's end that's used with the cam bolt.?
Frankly...I was going to say something snarky...about basic understanding...KERLSO7
HOWEVER...Thousands upon thousands of so called 'mechanics' have no concept of adjusting the rear camber on a Corvette...for 60 years!
I've seen some terrific disasters.
Besides what the nice people above have said, look CAREFULLY at the following that MATERIALLY affects what you are doing.
1. Broken or 'relaxed' rear spring. they're only good for 200k cycles and so many are just plumb SHOT!
2. BENT lower strut rods...this is what made me hold my tongue...the dribbling mouth breathers back in the day would not adjust the eccentric cams, they would BEND the strut rods.
3. OR the above had happened, the bushings were shot within the strut rods, the eccentric cams were adjusted ALL THEY'D GO....THEN they would bend the strut rods.
4. Spring vertical height adjuster/ pads and etc should be in pretty good shape too!
If the Strut rods are bent/ shot just change them, they're pretty cheap!
Knowing that this is an old thread that was activated again. The another thing to consider...because it CAN happen is that the side yoke(s) in the rear differential is badly worn down and now not allowing the strut rod to be able to set the camber.
Knowing that this is an old thread that was activated again. The another thing to consider...because it CAN happen is that the side yoke(s) in the rear differential is badly worn down and now not allowing the strut rod to be able to set the camber.
DUB
Even though this is an old thread...might as well give my modest input. The IRS is subject to influences that other cars are not. It is most important to make sure the car is smoothly driven in forward before gently stopping on a flat surface. This eliminates any external inputs that affect rear wheel camber. Start with that before making any adjustments to the strut rods. The old eyeball from the rear of the car is better to determine vertcality of the tires than any bumpy alignment rack.
You would be surprised at how many resurrected old threads have helped me in recent years since I originally knew Zero about Corvettes when I joined the Forum.
Hi D,
I wasn't aware that there was a "thick serrated washer" that was part of the camber adjustment hardware.
Is that something that's 68 only?
Regards,
Alan
Are you referring to the 'caps' that that fit against the sleeves in the rod at it's end that's used with the cam bolt.?
The Caps! Mine had marks in them from the sleeve ends inside the rubber bushings. That must be what I remember as "serrated washers"
The Caps! Mine had marks in them from the sleeve ends inside the rubber bushings. That must be what I remember as "serrated washers"
'Doorgunner' No need to
Not that it matters...but I knew what you meant due to I have seen this effect on these collared washers once that have been installed with the rubber strut rod bushings.
07-25-2010, 06:35 PM
How do you adjust camber of rear wheels
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