Chrome bumper broken mount... options?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
Chrome bumper broken mount... options?
So it took me FOREVER to get this front bumper off and that was due to the bolt in the bumper had broken it's welds and was just spinning. Took a lot of stuffing things down in there and spinning the hell out of the bolt to get it out of there. Believe it or not an olive cocktail fork was the tool that actually worked and got the bolt separated from the nut.... who would have thought.
I guess my only options i can think of are:
1. Buy new bumper. Mine is in pretty okay shape and I don't plan on spending the money for a new one.
2. Take it somewhere and have them cut out the old bracket, weld the nut back to it, then welt it back to the bumper...
I guess my only options i can think of are:
1. Buy new bumper. Mine is in pretty okay shape and I don't plan on spending the money for a new one.
2. Take it somewhere and have them cut out the old bracket, weld the nut back to it, then welt it back to the bumper...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 914
Likes: 10
From: Brooklet Ga.
If you cut the bracket off and try to reweld it back to the bumper you are gonna ruin the plating on the other side. I would make a small plate with a tapped hole in it and then drill a couple of 1/4 inch holes in the bracket, then slip the plate behind the bracket and plug weld the holes to hold the new tapped plate to the existing bracket. That way you won`t burn the plating off the face of your bumper. You could cut the flat face of the bracket with the hole off and reweld a nut on the back side and tig weld the small piece back
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Denver nc
Why did you need to remove it?
If it is in good shape I would run a tap through it and run the bolt through a die so it threads real easy. JB weld the nut on and put it back on. Any welding will probably mess up the chrome.
If it is in good shape I would run a tap through it and run the bolt through a die so it threads real easy. JB weld the nut on and put it back on. Any welding will probably mess up the chrome.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,270
Likes: 4
From: Celeste Texas
Take the old square nut into Ace hardware and get a new one. Wiggle it in where the old one was and reweld it. If you can't weld take it all to your nearest muffler shop and they will tack that nut to the bracket for you.
Bill
Bill
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
I also plan on painting the car within the next year or two and this would have gotten in my way at some point...
I have zero welding equipment but my work does. I might be able to use that stuff but then again i've never welded anything so i would probably have to ask one of my bosses who does know if he could help me... Or I could try on my own and see how that works out!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 914
Likes: 10
From: Brooklet Ga.
this isn`t something you want to learn on, I don`t think you can weld a nut on the back of that in place without ruining the threads. Take it to someone who can use a grinder to cut the flat piece of the bracket with the hole from the 4 welded corners then get someone with a tig/heliarc machine to tack a new nut on the back of it and then weld it back on where you cut it
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
That nut plate looks like it could work and be just what I need. Only problem is finding one and then finding one in the size i need.
I was also thinking an automotive speed nut might work but after looking at the gap i have i highly doubt i can fit one.
I was also thinking an automotive speed nut might work but after looking at the gap i have i highly doubt i can fit one.
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Williston Florida
As "texaswilkins" said, pick up a new nut at Ace. Slather the nut in JB Weld and put it in place. Let it harden adequately. Run a tap through it to clean the threads. Use anti-seize when you put it together. Done.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
I had a rivet gun handy and at the hardware store they had 1 nut plate that fit to the T.
I figured i'd try the nut plate first as it was the easiest and if it did fail I could always fall back to tac welding a regular nut onto the back area after cutting into it.
So now is this good enough you think? Should i have my boss tac it in as well in a few spots? Or I could drill another 2 holes at the top/bottom and put in 2 more rivets if that would make it more secure?
I figured i'd try the nut plate first as it was the easiest and if it did fail I could always fall back to tac welding a regular nut onto the back area after cutting into it.
So now is this good enough you think? Should i have my boss tac it in as well in a few spots? Or I could drill another 2 holes at the top/bottom and put in 2 more rivets if that would make it more secure?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,486
Likes: 71
From: Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin
Yhe nut plate should have been on the back side, not the front. I would tack weld it in if you are going to keep it on the front side just watch your heat so you don't blue the chrome.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
There wasn't enough of a gap on the top/bottom to be able to fit the entire nut plate behind there. Same goes with the automotive speed nuts.
Seems like every option involved cutting a large chunk of the bracket off(but not the whole thing) and welding it back on with a new nut.... Which is a ton of work for something so tiny without the proper tools or skills....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
I had a rivet gun handy and at the hardware store they had 1 nut plate that fit to the T.
I figured i'd try the nut plate first as it was the easiest and if it did fail I could always fall back to tac welding a regular nut onto the back area after cutting into it.
So now is this good enough you think? Should i have my boss tac it in as well in a few spots? Or I could drill another 2 holes at the top/bottom and put in 2 more rivets if that would make it more secure?
I figured i'd try the nut plate first as it was the easiest and if it did fail I could always fall back to tac welding a regular nut onto the back area after cutting into it.
So now is this good enough you think? Should i have my boss tac it in as well in a few spots? Or I could drill another 2 holes at the top/bottom and put in 2 more rivets if that would make it more secure?
Could you cut only one side of the bracket, bend it up enough to get a not in there and welded, then bend it back and weld the bracket?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
There are plenty of options that I can do if i'm willing to cut and weld. I just don't want to go that option just yet as it would mean spending time and money on something I don't feel is all that important?
I mean how much force does this thing actually take? It's got 3 other bolts holding it on in other spots so I guess my plan is to put it back on like this, see how it looks gap wise, then seeing how well it holds up. If anything it might just strip right out then i'll know for sure i'll need to find a better method to attach it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,486
Likes: 71
From: Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin
If you cut the threaded portion of the nut plate down, say half the threads, would it then slip in? That would be way stronger than just the rivets. The rivets are just to keep it in place they are not meant to take the load.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
I guess I can look into cutting on up and see how small it needs to get before it'll fit down in the hole without me having to cut anything.
