#s matching 72

Any suggestions out there to forever stop that pesty oil leak from the rear of the stock sheet metal valve covers.
I have tried straightening the sealing surface of the cover and am aware that you don't want to over-tighten the the attach bolts. It seem to last awhile and then the leak reappears.
I am trying to keep my 72 350 CI factory stock for judging purposes but have been thinking of going to the Cast aluminum valve covers that were offered that year on the LT1. Probably will lose some points with N.C.R.S. for originality and correct part not installed, but they will not flex as much as the sheet metal ones.
Another question did the original LT1 Alum. covers have a the rubber push in "Oil" cap or the twist on oil cap. I see most of the aftermarkt covers have the twist on caps.
Thanks John http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...ies/smile5.gif

Roughrider

With the stamped steel valve covers you can use rubber rather than cork gaskets, and buy a set of the metal tabs that help spread out the tightening force on the cover. Those are sold in most places like Pep Boys, Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc.

Outside of that, make sure the sealing surfaces are completely clean of sealants and old gasket material.

The best thing is to do as you already are considering...get a pair of cast aluminum valve covers as they don't twist.

Billysvette

Ive got 2 sets of new custom aluminum polished valve covers that i will sell to ya,they will not leak like the flimsy stock covers.One set is for old type heads like what was in your car and i have the center bolt ones too.If interested i will post pics for you and price which will be cheap.

Nowhere Man

do you have the long flat holders on the bolt

#s matching 72

no just the stock triangle type stiffeners

Nowhere Man

ok that's what i was talking about. I would run cast aluminum covers, and put on the stamped steel covers before judging

Mashman

Here's what I do, and I havn't had any leakage since doing it this way.

1) Make sure valve covers are clean. Add a thin even layer of RTV on the valve covers, and put on the gasket (I use cork). Leave the valve cover to setup over night.

2) Add another thin even layer of RTV on the bottom of the gasket, then put the cover on the head. Use cover bolts with spreaders, but don't tighten them - just start them to make sure they are in the correct location. Leave it overnight.

3) Tighten the bolts to correct torque.

#s matching 72

That sounds like it is worth a try. I have heard of using RTV but not quite the process as you stated.
Thanks for the suggestion.
John

Nowhere Man

if you use to much and a you don't remove the squeeze out the judge will get you for that

Ironman Motorsports

I've always used extra thick cork gaskets, they are twice as thick as as normal gaskets. I used them on my race car motors for years for extra clearance for tall runners on intakes and they help with any warpage of valve covers. I also put rtv on cover then let gasket set up with bolts threw the holes to help keep them lined up then put more rtv on gasket before I bolt them down on head.

MotorHead

I do the same thing only all at once, put the rtv on the head rail and put the gasket on then put RTV on top of gasket and put the covers on and let them cure over night torqued down.

And the F'ing covers still leak because AFR has not addressed the oil return passage problem even with their new line of Eliminator heads and so much oil gets caught up in the heads they eventually start to leak no matter if I welded the F'ing covers on

You guys aren't all NCRS are you ?.....oh look a puppy...time for bed