77 window alighnment and adjustment
#1
77 window alighnment and adjustment
I have been dealing with the following problem for over a year now.
I am unable to get the inboard and outboard adjustment on the drivers side window. I have had the window completely apart cleaned all the old grease out washed the parts and put napa silicone on all areas that the bushing roll in. We also inspected then for damage and none was found. I install a new motor and regulator spring. New outside rubber and molding. We have aligned the door also. We have a 1977 and 1979 service manual from chevrolet and have followed all the adjustments in it that we can with the following exception.
Both service manuals are wrong. They show an adjustment bolt "E" at the center top of the rail that has the other adjustment bolts. Bolt "E" does not exist on either door of my vette but it is in the manual as the bolt to loosen and . I have had two certified mechanics work on this door for many hours and they are also miffed.
Additional info. I was told here that if your 77 has the alarm on the door it is an early 77. When I ran the VIN with Corvette America we found out that it is a laste model built in august 1977.
Am I the only one out there that has found these discrepancies and has anyone else found this problem????
I am unable to get the inboard and outboard adjustment on the drivers side window. I have had the window completely apart cleaned all the old grease out washed the parts and put napa silicone on all areas that the bushing roll in. We also inspected then for damage and none was found. I install a new motor and regulator spring. New outside rubber and molding. We have aligned the door also. We have a 1977 and 1979 service manual from chevrolet and have followed all the adjustments in it that we can with the following exception.
Both service manuals are wrong. They show an adjustment bolt "E" at the center top of the rail that has the other adjustment bolts. Bolt "E" does not exist on either door of my vette but it is in the manual as the bolt to loosen and . I have had two certified mechanics work on this door for many hours and they are also miffed.
Additional info. I was told here that if your 77 has the alarm on the door it is an early 77. When I ran the VIN with Corvette America we found out that it is a laste model built in august 1977.
Am I the only one out there that has found these discrepancies and has anyone else found this problem????
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
Posts: 38,928
Likes: 0
Received 1,468 Likes
on
1,247 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
Sorry. I can't help with Bolt E. My 76 and 80 AIMs each have an E callout.
The Corvette Black Book says the alarm switch moved from the fender to the door with #27373 -- about half way through the production run. As far a switch location goes, cars with the switch in the fender would be early; switches in the door would be late.
The Corvette Black Book says the alarm switch moved from the fender to the door with #27373 -- about half way through the production run. As far a switch location goes, cars with the switch in the fender would be early; switches in the door would be late.
#3
Sorry. I can't help with Bolt E. My 76 and 80 AIMs each have an E callout.
The Corvette Black Book says the alarm switch moved from the fender to the door with #27373 -- about half way through the production run. As far a switch location goes, cars with the switch in the fender would be early; switches in the door would be late.
The Corvette Black Book says the alarm switch moved from the fender to the door with #27373 -- about half way through the production run. As far a switch location goes, cars with the switch in the fender would be early; switches in the door would be late.
Bill
#4
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
That is what I was also told. Mine then should have early T-tops on it. The weather strip molding for the T-tops is diferent on the early and the late. This is what propted me to check the VIN the early t-top weather strip would not fit. The late fit like a glove. Could you check the nchange on the T-top for the production year. My VIN 21429
Bill
Bill
You know for us.. when following protocol fails... we use suction cups!
Yep.. we put one man inside the car and one man on the outside with suction cups on the glass. We hold the glass where it should be (1" from the t-top rubber and 1" from the pillar) and tighten it down. Sounds easy.... it ain't.. Just a suggestion...
But it seems to give us a fixed starting point to tweak from.
Have you adjusted the pillars weatherstrips and the T-top weatherstrips?
Is there an issue in the door hinge pins and bushings?
Are the outer felts new?
and lastly is the door glass striker in good shape?
Just a few things that may be giving you an issue.. These problems are very hard to do in person and even harder trying to do over the internet.. Good luck..
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 01-16-2011 at 03:21 PM.
#5
Bill-
You know for us.. when following protocol fails... we use suction cups!
Yep.. we put one man inside the car and one man on the outside with suction cups on the glass. We hold the glass where it should be (1" from the t-top rubber and 1" from the pillar) and tighten it down. Sounds easy.... it ain't.. Just a suggestion...
But it seems to give us a fixed starting point to tweak from.
Have you adjusted the pillars weatherstrips and the T-top weatherstrips?
Is there an issue in the door hinge pins and bushings?
Are the outer felts new?
and lastly is the door glass striker in good shape?
Just a few things that may be giving you an issue.. These problems are very hard to do in person and even harder trying to do over the internet.. Good luck..
Willcox
You know for us.. when following protocol fails... we use suction cups!
Yep.. we put one man inside the car and one man on the outside with suction cups on the glass. We hold the glass where it should be (1" from the t-top rubber and 1" from the pillar) and tighten it down. Sounds easy.... it ain't.. Just a suggestion...
But it seems to give us a fixed starting point to tweak from.
Have you adjusted the pillars weatherstrips and the T-top weatherstrips?
Is there an issue in the door hinge pins and bushings?
Are the outer felts new?
and lastly is the door glass striker in good shape?
Just a few things that may be giving you an issue.. These problems are very hard to do in person and even harder trying to do over the internet.. Good luck..
Willcox
#6
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
No problem Bill and I have ran in to these cars that could not be adjusted... What a PITA..
#7
I think I'm going to give up for about a month and then go back to it. I hate getting stumped.
#8
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
That is what it is looking like for me. We adjusted the window all the way one way and all the way the other and stopped a hundred times in between. The window will not go outboard enough to roll up in the rubber with the door closed. Like I said prior we have been trying to adjust this window for a year now with no luck. It does amaze me that chevrolet service manuals are wrong and they don't make the corrections in the years to follow. I would hate to be a chevrolet mechanic.
I think I'm going to give up for about a month and then go back to it. I hate getting stumped.
I think I'm going to give up for about a month and then go back to it. I hate getting stumped.
#9
The outer sash rubber tends to push the glass in. We are about to cut a 1/16 off the rubber and give it a shot. That just might allow the glass to go out enough. I don't know. Now I sound like a shade tree mechanic. I have never in my 40 years working on old cars run into a problem like this.
#10
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The outer sash rubber tends to push the glass in. We are about to cut a 1/16 off the rubber and give it a shot. That just might allow the glass to go out enough. I don't know. Now I sound like a shade tree mechanic. I have never in my 40 years working on old cars run into a problem like this.
is the car a power window car and if so.. what type of outer felt did you get. If you purchased the cheep replacement wipes the rubber will push and bind on the glass. They are easy to detect since they do not have the whisker look to them.. Just curious about this.. I've had that issue when the correct outer felts were not available.
Willcox
#11
The outer wipe.. the part you arm would lay across if the window were rolled down?
is the car a power window car and if so.. what type of outer felt did you get. If you purchased the cheep replacement wipes the rubber will push and bind on the glass. They are easy to detect since they do not have the whisker look to them.. Just curious about this.. I've had that issue when the correct outer felts were not available.
Willcox
is the car a power window car and if so.. what type of outer felt did you get. If you purchased the cheep replacement wipes the rubber will push and bind on the glass. They are easy to detect since they do not have the whisker look to them.. Just curious about this.. I've had that issue when the correct outer felts were not available.
Willcox
#12
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
dYes we carry the correct replacement felts. However, the old trick was to just slice the rubber away until it's about 1/16" wide. This will prevent it from rubbing or pushing the glass.
Again, before the good felts were made in reproduction this is about the only choice we had. It will not wipe the glass either. It will fill the void between the glass and the door but that is about all it will do.
Here is the link to the felts..
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=15422
Willcox
Again, before the good felts were made in reproduction this is about the only choice we had. It will not wipe the glass either. It will fill the void between the glass and the door but that is about all it will do.
Here is the link to the felts..
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=15422
Willcox
#13
Burning Brakes
Hey Willcox, are those felts ready to put straight on the car or do they have another piece they go on to? I need some for my 74 convertible and mine has no old ones to go on.
Cheers
Grant
Cheers
Grant
#14
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
There was a metal stainless steel molding that went on first. Then the felt.
I may have some used SS moldings, they are not available new. If this is what you are needing with the felts, post back.
I'll have a chance to check tomorrow to see if I have any.
Willcox
I may have some used SS moldings, they are not available new. If this is what you are needing with the felts, post back.
I'll have a chance to check tomorrow to see if I have any.
Willcox
#16
Not sure about the bolt I'll have to check. As far as the other my 77 is late for the most part but has the door alarm and an early radiator overflow tank. Pretty much as they ran out of early parts they began the late ones. Mine was built 8/77 so there can't be many built will all late parts. What are you calling the rail where the bolt is?
#17
Not sure about the bolt I'll have to check. As far as the other my 77 is late for the most part but has the door alarm and an early radiator overflow tank. Pretty much as they ran out of early parts they began the late ones. Mine was built 8/77 so there can't be many built will all late parts. What are you calling the rail where the bolt is?
#18
Sorry I don't have the service manual but according to my door and my AIM you are right. No center hole in my door nor does AIM show it.
#19
Heel & Toe
Hi All,
I am also in the restoration of my driver's door power window components on my C3/77 and fell in the old misalignment trick. The window gets too far inboard at the pillar while lifting and hit the windshield pillar metal clip that retain the weatherstrip.
Did the diminution of the thickness of the outer sash rubber do the trick? did it solve the issue ?
Otherwise, I though at either look at adjusting differently the pillar weatherstrip (including removing the metal clip) or at modding the bottom of the window rails to see if I could have the window following a wider outer trajectory when rising.
According to you, do this have a chance to work ?
Thanks.
I am also in the restoration of my driver's door power window components on my C3/77 and fell in the old misalignment trick. The window gets too far inboard at the pillar while lifting and hit the windshield pillar metal clip that retain the weatherstrip.
Did the diminution of the thickness of the outer sash rubber do the trick? did it solve the issue ?
Otherwise, I though at either look at adjusting differently the pillar weatherstrip (including removing the metal clip) or at modding the bottom of the window rails to see if I could have the window following a wider outer trajectory when rising.
According to you, do this have a chance to work ?
Thanks.
Last edited by bioposi; 10-17-2011 at 07:11 AM.
#20
Burning Brakes
Hi All,
I am also in the restoration of my driver's door power window components on my C3/77 and fell in the old misalignment trick. The window gets too far inboard at the pillar while lifting and hit the windshield pillar metal clip that retain the weatherstrip.
Did the diminution of the thickness of the outer sash rubber do the trick? did it solve the issue ?
Otherwise, I though at either look at adjusting differently the pillar weatherstrip (including removing the metal clip) or at modding the bottom of the window rails to see if I could have the window following a wider outer trajectory when rising.
According to you, do this have a chance to work ?
Thanks.
I am also in the restoration of my driver's door power window components on my C3/77 and fell in the old misalignment trick. The window gets too far inboard at the pillar while lifting and hit the windshield pillar metal clip that retain the weatherstrip.
Did the diminution of the thickness of the outer sash rubber do the trick? did it solve the issue ?
Otherwise, I though at either look at adjusting differently the pillar weatherstrip (including removing the metal clip) or at modding the bottom of the window rails to see if I could have the window following a wider outer trajectory when rising.
According to you, do this have a chance to work ?
Thanks.