Disassemble of 69 SidepipeCover
#21
Melting Slicks
Hi Frank
Its a mixed bag... for me - I did real well on the fiberglass, fit, repair of the screws, etc. However, on the chrome, the chrome shop did a sub par job on the chrome. On the paint, I will have to verify which I used. But on the paint, I waited a bit too long on the razor blade exercise and wound up with paint that looks 'chipped' rather than a nice straight line/edge.
All said, I would most likely just but new ones on sale ($2k) and sell my old ones. My status is - the sidecovers fit well and look decent. When I do get some time, I will re-paint and ensure I do a better job of using a blade before hardening of paint.
Its a mixed bag... for me - I did real well on the fiberglass, fit, repair of the screws, etc. However, on the chrome, the chrome shop did a sub par job on the chrome. On the paint, I will have to verify which I used. But on the paint, I waited a bit too long on the razor blade exercise and wound up with paint that looks 'chipped' rather than a nice straight line/edge.
All said, I would most likely just but new ones on sale ($2k) and sell my old ones. My status is - the sidecovers fit well and look decent. When I do get some time, I will re-paint and ensure I do a better job of using a blade before hardening of paint.
Last edited by kaiserbud; 03-20-2011 at 11:21 PM.
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was amused that in today's German, the english word "oldtimer" appears.
In restoring this car, was chrome vacuum deposition used to restore some of the parts? Chrome vacuum deposition is used to chrome plate plastic parts. I've had the thought of chrome plating my aluminum grill pieces using the vacuum deposition process.
In restoring this car, was chrome vacuum deposition used to restore some of the parts? Chrome vacuum deposition is used to chrome plate plastic parts. I've had the thought of chrome plating my aluminum grill pieces using the vacuum deposition process.
Yes they use vacuum deposition for nonemetalparts.
Thanks
Frank
#23
Melting Slicks
Hi Frank.... yes - I wiped it down with lacquer thinner and then sprayed on the adhesion promoter Bull Frog.
I think I waited to long to wipe off the paint on the fin tips.... when I have the chance to do again - I will do one section at a time and wipe excess paint off the fin tips more diligently.
I think I waited to long to wipe off the paint on the fin tips.... when I have the chance to do again - I will do one section at a time and wipe excess paint off the fin tips more diligently.
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#26
$800 US dollars total? I still think that's a good deal. I plan on sending out all of my pieces that need chrome at one time so I can hopefully get a better deal on everything.
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No News (still at Plating) but one more question:
Are the screws to attach the Sidepipecovers the same as the original to attach the RockerPanel or are they different ,( length) ?
Thanks
Frank
Are the screws to attach the Sidepipecovers the same as the original to attach the RockerPanel or are they different ,( length) ?
Thanks
Frank
#28
#29
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi Frank,
I've used the cross headed screws that are proper for the interior sill plates. These are a #10 screw with a #8 head. This way the smaller head 'nestles' down in the counter sunk area of the holes in the insulators.
I found that I had to be very careful installing the screws because it seemed VERY easy to damage the insulators.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I've used the cross headed screws that are proper for the interior sill plates. These are a #10 screw with a #8 head. This way the smaller head 'nestles' down in the counter sunk area of the holes in the insulators.
I found that I had to be very careful installing the screws because it seemed VERY easy to damage the insulators.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#34
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2001
Location: Europe , Luxembourg
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Hi
Yes, now you need to adjust those with some Scotchbright to get some Patina back .
They are now too nice, hence over-restored.
I will hopefully see them in real in September in St.Leon Rot
Rgds. Günther
Yes, now you need to adjust those with some Scotchbright to get some Patina back .
They are now too nice, hence over-restored.
I will hopefully see them in real in September in St.Leon Rot
Rgds. Günther
#35
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: www.Z16.org North/West Pennsylvania
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Just an idea, to keep them looking good. I would get some of that clear plastic chip guard, and put it on those front pieced, that curve right behind the front tires. It should help minimize the rock chips in the future.
#36
Race Director
As pretty as those are , I'd be installing big mudflaps.
#37
Safety Car
someone actually makes clear molded, protective gaurds for the C2 pipes.
The qualtiy looks great on the chrome work you had done.
The qualtiy looks great on the chrome work you had done.
Last edited by 69Vett; 07-08-2011 at 03:02 PM.
#38
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
This idea sounds good to me but maybe Günther is right, they look to good for a 42 year old car
#39
Those are AWSOME!! Very nice work. Before you try and put them back together I would chase the treads with a tap to clean any of the plating out of the treads. Will make it a lot easier to put back togther. IMHO.
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
First testing of colour and adhesion
I masked a small area on the back of the rechromed part and spray it without preparation (only cleaning
original look
result
Here its a bit better to see
I think the colour is pretty close, so I will take it
Adhesion test follows when its dried
I masked a small area on the back of the rechromed part and spray it without preparation (only cleaning
original look
result
Here its a bit better to see
I think the colour is pretty close, so I will take it
Adhesion test follows when its dried
Last edited by Roma; 07-10-2011 at 05:58 AM.