Disassemble of 69 SidepipeCover
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Disassemble of 69 SidepipeCover
I got used original Sidepipes but the covers needs rechroming.
I unscrewed the compositeisolation and try to remove the 3 metalparts.
One was easy to remove
but the one in the middle and at the end is not removable.
Im afraid to pull to hard, because it feels like the isolation will break
Any ideas how to seperate without destroying ?
Thanks
Frank
I unscrewed the compositeisolation and try to remove the 3 metalparts.
One was easy to remove
but the one in the middle and at the end is not removable.
Im afraid to pull to hard, because it feels like the isolation will break
Any ideas how to seperate without destroying ?
Thanks
Frank
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: www.Z16.org North/West Pennsylvania
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The last set I took apart, came apart easily after removing the screws.
Make sure the people who are doing the re-chrome know that those covers are made of pot metal, that will dissolve, if they try to chemically strip the old chrome. Mine were ruined in the chemical strip process.Good luck
Make sure the people who are doing the re-chrome know that those covers are made of pot metal, that will dissolve, if they try to chemically strip the old chrome. Mine were ruined in the chemical strip process.Good luck
#4
Race Director
The metal parts should certainly come away from the insulators. Just make CERTAIN that you got all of the screws and rivets. You could probably replace the metal parts for less that rechroming but obviously that's your choice. Wreck the insulators though and you've got a real problem.
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Redondo Beach, California
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Hydrochloric acid, I believe, is a common chemical used to strip chromium. It can also be stripped electrolytically. Since hydrochloric acid will eat aluminum vigorously, it can't be dipped. Interestingly, the nickel plate underneath the chromium plate cannot be removed with hydrochloric acid, it has to be electrolytically removed.
Getting your old covers stripped is just part of the battle. You have to find someone that can chrome plate aluminum. You have to strip to bare aluminum, polish, and then anodyze with an electrically conducting anodyze. Then you're pretty much home free with the traditional nickle and chrome plating process.
A new set of factory covers (repro'd with original tools and processes) can be bought for about $2200. I think now you can buy just the end pieces new to save a little money. Since the middle piece is pretty much black, just paint it black completely.
I have the factory sidepipes on my 68.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#7
Race Director
It's the thin, stand off brackets at the back that I was referring to and I see from the pic that you've already removed those. Sorry if I scared you. The rivets on the front bracket don't go all the way through.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If you look at the second picture there is a small spot of glue visible. Did they use a bit glue to fix the 3 Covers on the Insulation ?
#10
Make sure you have taken all of the screws out of the covers where they are secured to the insulators. The factory used some type of silicone adhesive between the covers and the insulators. Be very careful and just use a small screw driver and pry the 2 pieces apart. That is what i have done to several sets that have worked on.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Make sure you have taken all of the screws out of the covers where they are secured to the insulators. The factory used some type of silicone adhesive between the covers and the insulators. Be very careful and just use a small screw driver and pry the 2 pieces apart. That is what i have done to several sets that have worked on.
Nothing broken, everything in good shape, including my fingernails
It was glued on 3 additional positions, but a consistent pulling and some sh..t screams, helped
Here is the result
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Redondo Beach, California
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So far the front left and right grills of my 70 are polished aluminum. The man that does my plating, electrolytically removed the chrome and nickel from the original pieces. They were corroded. The polished aluminum, about 5 years out, still looks OK, but they've never been in the weather. I think some people here have spoke favorable about Zaino. Apparently it provides protection for polished aluminum.
I keep my chrome plated, polished aluminum, etc surfaces coated with WD40. Seems to work pretty good. I clean the surfaces with Windex (window cleaner) and then spray WD40 on a paper towel and coat the surfaces. I haven't tried Zaino yet, it costs about $100 or something like that. Maybe other forum members are familiar with Zaino.
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I will give them
http://www.mov-designtec.de/index.ph...=82&Itemid=111
a try.
The text is in German but the pics should speek for them self. They are well known at the german Corvetteforum and also have expirience with aluminium.
And thanks all for your help
Best Regards
Frank
http://www.mov-designtec.de/index.ph...=82&Itemid=111
a try.
The text is in German but the pics should speek for them self. They are well known at the german Corvetteforum and also have expirience with aluminium.
And thanks all for your help
Best Regards
Frank
#19
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
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I was amused that in today's German, the english word "oldtimer" appears.
In restoring this car, was chrome vacuum deposition used to restore some of the parts? Chrome vacuum deposition is used to chrome plate plastic parts. I've had the thought of chrome plating my aluminum grill pieces using the vacuum deposition process.
#20
Senior Member since 1492
You can always patch the insulators if needed with fiberglass cloth.