flynnd_33

im in the process of restoring my 1980 and i need a two new bumpers, i already have the new rear from toledo fiberglass...which i am i happy with the fit and finish for the the rear. But i still need the front and i was wondering before i spend more money for another bumper how hard is it to mold the tru-flex bumpers to the orginal fiberglass...? i know too v the groove out and how to go about doing regular glass work...but for this should i use a fusor product or just glass with a light coat of good filler? just looking for advice tips and picture of people that have done this without cracking. i tried searching and found a few tips but found little of the tru-flex to fiberglass... Thanks

flynnd_33

nobodys molded tru-flex bumpers??

Rotonda

"If a TRU FLEX BUMPER becomes damaged it can be repaired with any common polyester resins or fillers. "

The above is from the Toledo Tru-Flex web site. Treat the bumper like a normal fiberglass part. There are a number of posts on molding fiberglass bumpers, both in the C13 section and the paint & body section. Do some searches.

Easy Mike

The stock hood surround panel on the 80s is SMC. It is my understanding the older polyester materials are not compatible with SMC.

I would call Tru Flex and ask, just to be on the safe side.

gkz

I molded mine in. If I had it to do over, it would be with 'real' glass not flexy. You still have to deal with a little waviness. Here are some pics.

It helps to be on an incline; the chocks behind the front wheels actually prevent the car from rolling backward! Here the bumper was attached using West Systems epoxy resin mixed with their 403 adhesive. Bulletproof. Them small SS bumper retainers sold by vendors were used to keep in place.


No doubt you heard of the bumpers not lining up. Here, Tracdogg's doubletape method is used to outline the area to be glassed. The gelcoat was removed to promote adhesion, but some say this is not needed.


Here the glass and resin (again West Systems epoxy) were applied


Next, the seam was slightly "U"d and filled with glass.


Any slight waves were filled with West epoxy mixed with their 407 filler--makes it like a bondo


This was a personal thing: I liked the non-fang 74 bumper, but also liked how the 75 curved in instead of jutting out like the 74; so I filled in the fangs w/glass and filler.

Hope this helps. I had the same questions as you...

flynnd_33

gkz thanks alot it helps alot that basically what i had in mind.... i did searchs maybe i was typing in something wrong because i only found one good result.... thanks again tho....and about this west systems epoxy? can i get this anywhere? and whats so differnt about this company compared to regular glass and resin? why did u pick west systems?

gkz

A local friend restores vettes and recommended marine epoxy for repairs to the SMC. So, I went to a West Marine store and purchased everything needed.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...11151_10001_-1

Their tech support is fantastic. I figure that if their epoxy can hold up to salt water, hot, cold, storms, etc on boats; it'll be ok for the vette. It is, like all epoxy, susceptible to UV damage. They have a very informative instruction booklet addressing this and more.

I didn't know beans about fiberglass. I'll pass on the three recommendations given to me: (1) Baby powder on exposed skin before working with the 'glass, (2) Duct tape for removing 'glass from your skin you missed with baby powder, (3) Wear gloves.

79L48

I used to be a West Systems dealer (the now defunct competition to West Marine)- It is in my opinion the best and most thorough epoxy system on the market with excellent tech write-ups and a multitude of product solutions.

flynnd_33

thank you alot really..... ill use there products as well and ill use a non flexy bumper from toledo glass on the front... thats what the suggested to me.... may be a bit more pricey but do it once and do it right.... thanks again