I got VB&P's complete front end mono spring setup. I can't get these stinkin ball joints loose so I can get the coil spring out. I don't care about the control arms or the ball joints getting messed up. Is there a way I can skip this part since it's all getting replaced? And I tried the pickle fork trick but all it seems to do is hit the frame, I can't get a good angle where the U of the fork lays all the way on the bolt. Anybody have another trick?

 

I put a floor jack under the lower CA to hold some weight on the coil spring... Unscrewed the upper ball joint castle and re-threaded it on upside down and beat it out with a hammer...

I used a coil spring compressor to help with the bottom, but still did not get "all" the tension out of the spring... Had quite a pop when loosened the last bolt to get the bottoms out...

Doing the same upgrade as soon as I get the frame painted... Kind of sad to keep seeing all these nice, new shiny parts sitting in the dining room...

Show us some pictures after you get this installed...

Rogman

 

JC Whitney has a ball joint buster that works great. It has adjustable arms to fit any size balljoint and a solid bolt head that will loosen any ball joint. No more hammering and beating the crap out of the car.

 

Of course I get the drivers side 10 minutes after I post. I just had to adjust the height of the jack under the control arm so the pickle fork was seated all the way and not hitting the frame. And when that ball joint broke..... POW! I was so happy I started yelling and cheering and woke up the two year old from her nap. No more work until mommy gets home then yard work before I can get back to the car. I hope the same thing works for the passenger side and I gotta learn to celebrate more quietly. Here's hoping for rain!

 

Trade secret from someone that's been doing this for about 40 yrs. Forget the pickle fork. Take the nuts off the ball joints and the tie rod end. Thread the ball joint nuts back on until the stud just comes flush with the nut (took them off just to clean the threads making it easier to get them off once they're loose in the spindle).

Take a big hammer and whack the steering knuckle right adjacent to the stud. One or two smacks and the tie rod end will pop out.

Now jack the car up under the frame so the control arms are hanging. The coil spring under this arrangement is trying to pull the studs out of the spindle, assisting you in your objective. Swing the spindle so you can get a good whack at the knuckle beside the stud. Same thing. A couple of whacks and it will pop apart. The nuts will hold things together so it doesn't hurt anyone. Now your lower your jack with a block or jack stand under the lower control arm. As you take the weight off you can remove the nuts with your hand and pull everything apart. Total time, about 10 minutes per side.

This is how you remove any tapered fit stud. Hit the piece that the stud is in 90 degrees to the stud so to speak. Great when you are reusing parts because you don't wreck the boots like a pickle fork does.

Steve g