Chassis Painting - Brush or Spray - Opinions?
12-28-2011, 02:21 PM
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
So I blasted the frame and suspension and a bunch of other parts, and brush painted everything with POR-15 semi-gloss. Let me just say that I hope never to do that again! 
I say that not because I think there is something wrong with POR-15, in fact I think these parts will live longer than I do. Everything is basically hermetically sealed and encapsulated and I cannot imagine it ever rusting. I also used internal frame coating spray from Eastwood and that really gives me confidence that I coated everything as well as possible and I would recommend it to anyone doing a frame off.
Anyway, the reason I say I won't do it again is because it is very messy and somewhat difficult to deal with when brushing on. It starts getting thick very quickly after removing from the can so only take what you need and seal the can back up fast. I actually separated the gallon into 4 separate 1 quart glass canning jars and put them in the fridge, that way I only get what I need and don't compromise the rest of the batch. At $130 a gallon, that is key to me. It's also a lot easier to clean the rim of a canning jar than the rim of a paint can, if you seal the can back up with paint in the rim, good luck getting it open.
The other reason I probably won't use POR-15 again is the final finish or sheen quality. I bought semi-gloss and going on it looks absolutely beautiful. However, once dried it has a very inconsistent finish to it, some glossy streaks, some almost "milky" looking streaks all smeared together along with my brush marks. I will say tho that the brush marks were to be expected and they are not too terrible, it does level fairly well. I was hoping for a much better looking final appearance for my parts without having to top coat it with another product to "finish" it. I followed the instructions exactly including using marine clean and metal ready to prep the surfaces, the metal ready is really a super product BTW, it really gives the metal an 'etched' feel that helps the product adhere. I would recommend using it before applying any paint finish.
Has anyone else had a less than desirable finish quality using POR-15? Was I expecting too much, should I topcoat with something like Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black? It's been about 4 days since I applied the POR-15 so I think I would have to sand every part to apply another coat which sounds unbearable at best.....
Appreciate any input or personal experiences with POR-15....
I say that not because I think there is something wrong with POR-15, in fact I think these parts will live longer than I do. Everything is basically hermetically sealed and encapsulated and I cannot imagine it ever rusting. I also used internal frame coating spray from Eastwood and that really gives me confidence that I coated everything as well as possible and I would recommend it to anyone doing a frame off. Anyway, the reason I say I won't do it again is because it is very messy and somewhat difficult to deal with when brushing on. It starts getting thick very quickly after removing from the can so only take what you need and seal the can back up fast. I actually separated the gallon into 4 separate 1 quart glass canning jars and put them in the fridge, that way I only get what I need and don't compromise the rest of the batch. At $130 a gallon, that is key to me. It's also a lot easier to clean the rim of a canning jar than the rim of a paint can, if you seal the can back up with paint in the rim, good luck getting it open.
The other reason I probably won't use POR-15 again is the final finish or sheen quality. I bought semi-gloss and going on it looks absolutely beautiful. However, once dried it has a very inconsistent finish to it, some glossy streaks, some almost "milky" looking streaks all smeared together along with my brush marks. I will say tho that the brush marks were to be expected and they are not too terrible, it does level fairly well. I was hoping for a much better looking final appearance for my parts without having to top coat it with another product to "finish" it. I followed the instructions exactly including using marine clean and metal ready to prep the surfaces, the metal ready is really a super product BTW, it really gives the metal an 'etched' feel that helps the product adhere. I would recommend using it before applying any paint finish.
Has anyone else had a less than desirable finish quality using POR-15? Was I expecting too much, should I topcoat with something like Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black? It's been about 4 days since I applied the POR-15 so I think I would have to sand every part to apply another coat which sounds unbearable at best.....
Appreciate any input or personal experiences with POR-15....
12-28-2011, 02:34 PM
#22
Melting Slicks
I used Eastwood (not the Extreme) Chassis paint in the spray bombs and it "really" covers well. I also bought a qt. can to brush on in some areas.
12-28-2011, 02:45 PM
#23
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi gb,
Without commenting on when POR15's use is needed and appropriate, (I think it gets used too much), I've never been thrilled with it's appearance. I can understand people's desire for protection, but for me appearance matters too.
How about a picture of what you have?
Regards,
Alan
Without commenting on when POR15's use is needed and appropriate, (I think it gets used too much), I've never been thrilled with it's appearance. I can understand people's desire for protection, but for me appearance matters too.
How about a picture of what you have?
Regards,
Alan
12-28-2011, 02:45 PM
#24
Drifting
So I blasted the frame and suspension and a bunch of other parts, and brush painted everything with POR-15 semi-gloss. Let me just say that I hope never to do that again! I say that not because I think there is something wrong with POR-15, in fact I think these parts will live longer than I do. Everything is basically hermetically sealed and encapsulated and I cannot imagine it ever rusting. I also used internal frame coating spray from Eastwood and that really gives me confidence that I coated everything as well as possible and I would recommend it to anyone doing a frame off.
Anyway, the reason I say I won't do it again is because it is very messy and somewhat difficult to deal with when brushing on. It starts getting thick very quickly after removing from the can so only take what you need and seal the can back up fast. I actually separated the gallon into 4 separate 1 quart glass canning jars and put them in the fridge, that way I only get what I need and don't compromise the rest of the batch. At $130 a gallon, that is key to me. It's also a lot easier to clean the rim of a canning jar than the rim of a paint can, if you seal the can back up with paint in the rim, good luck getting it open.
The other reason I probably won't use POR-15 again is the final finish or sheen quality. I bought semi-gloss and going on it looks absolutely beautiful. However, once dried it has a very inconsistent finish to it, some glossy streaks, some almost "milky" looking streaks all smeared together along with my brush marks. I will say tho that the brush marks were to be expected and they are not too terrible, it does level fairly well. I was hoping for a much better looking final appearance for my parts without having to top coat it with another product to "finish" it. I followed the instructions exactly including using marine clean and metal ready to prep the surfaces, the metal ready is really a super product BTW, it really gives the metal an 'etched' feel that helps the product adhere. I would recommend using it before applying any paint finish.
Has anyone else had a less than desirable finish quality using POR-15? Was I expecting too much, should I topcoat with something like Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black? It's been about 4 days since I applied the POR-15 so I think I would have to sand every part to apply another coat which sounds unbearable at best.....
Appreciate any input or personal experiences with POR-15....
I say that not because I think there is something wrong with POR-15, in fact I think these parts will live longer than I do. Everything is basically hermetically sealed and encapsulated and I cannot imagine it ever rusting. I also used internal frame coating spray from Eastwood and that really gives me confidence that I coated everything as well as possible and I would recommend it to anyone doing a frame off. Anyway, the reason I say I won't do it again is because it is very messy and somewhat difficult to deal with when brushing on. It starts getting thick very quickly after removing from the can so only take what you need and seal the can back up fast. I actually separated the gallon into 4 separate 1 quart glass canning jars and put them in the fridge, that way I only get what I need and don't compromise the rest of the batch. At $130 a gallon, that is key to me. It's also a lot easier to clean the rim of a canning jar than the rim of a paint can, if you seal the can back up with paint in the rim, good luck getting it open.
The other reason I probably won't use POR-15 again is the final finish or sheen quality. I bought semi-gloss and going on it looks absolutely beautiful. However, once dried it has a very inconsistent finish to it, some glossy streaks, some almost "milky" looking streaks all smeared together along with my brush marks. I will say tho that the brush marks were to be expected and they are not too terrible, it does level fairly well. I was hoping for a much better looking final appearance for my parts without having to top coat it with another product to "finish" it. I followed the instructions exactly including using marine clean and metal ready to prep the surfaces, the metal ready is really a super product BTW, it really gives the metal an 'etched' feel that helps the product adhere. I would recommend using it before applying any paint finish.
Has anyone else had a less than desirable finish quality using POR-15? Was I expecting too much, should I topcoat with something like Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black? It's been about 4 days since I applied the POR-15 so I think I would have to sand every part to apply another coat which sounds unbearable at best.....
Appreciate any input or personal experiences with POR-15....
Never had any issues with either brushing or spraying POR15... Always has a smooth, hard as hell, and with a brilianr sheen... I topcoat with BlackCote and it has a great shine... I preferred my parts to have a glossy finish versus the semi-gloss... It is a pain to clean up and the vapor is very noxious... I have a slew of parts that I need to shoot and kind of dreading it... Put up the plastic, hang the parts, spray, wait, spray, wait spray... But in the end, it's worth the work... I've tried to strip a part that I messed up, and it was he!! to get all that paint off...
Rogman
12-28-2011, 03:16 PM
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
Hi gb,
Without commenting on when POR15's use is needed and appropriate, (I think it gets used too much), I've never been thrilled with it's appearance. I can understand people's desire for protection, but for me appearance matters too.
How about a picture of what you have?
Regards,
Alan
Without commenting on when POR15's use is needed and appropriate, (I think it gets used too much), I've never been thrilled with it's appearance. I can understand people's desire for protection, but for me appearance matters too.
How about a picture of what you have?
Regards,
Alan
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx...92847CBED7!725
12-28-2011, 03:31 PM
#26
Did you mix it completely? I've used POR-15 on numerous projects over the years. On my frame and many other parts and it came out beautifully. I didn't use a bristle brush, but instead a sponge brush. I did, however coat it (the frame) with their Chassis Coat Black as well. Pics can be seen in my signature link.
The fridge is a great idea and I would recommend using smaller cans. If you need to seal a can put Cling Wrap between the lid and can before hamering the lid.
The fridge is a great idea and I would recommend using smaller cans. If you need to seal a can put Cling Wrap between the lid and can before hamering the lid.
12-28-2011, 03:34 PM
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
Yes, I definitely mixed it thoroughly. I'm wondering if it might have been affected by cold during shipping. My guess is that would be bad for it......
12-28-2011, 11:48 PM
#28
Drifting
If you do the POR 15, use the metal ready. Even if it has been blasted. Maybe not the Marine Clean as Dawn dish soap will do as well. The directions recomend the metal ready for a reason. You'll be happier with the results over time.
If done in POR 15 I'd then paint it with POR 15 Chasis Black for the correct look. When done in that order you can beat it with a hammer and it won't hurt it.
If done in POR 15 I'd then paint it with POR 15 Chasis Black for the correct look. When done in that order you can beat it with a hammer and it won't hurt it.
12-29-2011, 08:51 AM
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
If you do the POR 15, use the metal ready. Even if it has been blasted. Maybe not the Marine Clean as Dawn dish soap will do as well. The directions recomend the metal ready for a reason. You'll be happier with the results over time.
If done in POR 15 I'd then paint it with POR 15 Chasis Black for the correct look. When done in that order you can beat it with a hammer and it won't hurt it.
If done in POR 15 I'd then paint it with POR 15 Chasis Black for the correct look. When done in that order you can beat it with a hammer and it won't hurt it.
12-29-2011, 09:06 AM
#31
Drifting
To make it last I never open any of their products unless it has to be stired. I use self tapping screw that has the rubber seal on it and drill it through the top side of the can. Then squeeze out through the hole all I need. Then replace the screw. if the top comes off and any paint gets in the groove, it can be impossible to reopen.
I've had cans last several years using the screw method to keep it fresh. When I do the frame I fish a line through the frame and tie the ends together around a sponge, soak the sponge and pull it through the frame. Soak it again and pull it back through until it's coated.
Makes a mess, so cover anything you don't want that color, including hands. Oh Yea, don't wear your Sunday go to meet'in cloths either.
I've had cans last several years using the screw method to keep it fresh. When I do the frame I fish a line through the frame and tie the ends together around a sponge, soak the sponge and pull it through the frame. Soak it again and pull it back through until it's coated.
Makes a mess, so cover anything you don't want that color, including hands. Oh Yea, don't wear your Sunday go to meet'in cloths either.
12-29-2011, 11:11 PM
#32
Melting Slicks
In my opinion POR-15 is fine for parts that you do not care about the final finish as much as you are for rust encapsulation which it does a great job of.
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black goes on fine, but no very tough and I will not use it again if I have a choice. For spray bomb parts I use black refrigerator epoxy, for a spray bomb it is the most durable I have found.
I had my frame blasted and powder coated. You can specify how much gloss you want and it is by far the best you can do.
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black goes on fine, but no very tough and I will not use it again if I have a choice. For spray bomb parts I use black refrigerator epoxy, for a spray bomb it is the most durable I have found.
I had my frame blasted and powder coated. You can specify how much gloss you want and it is by far the best you can do.
12-30-2011, 06:01 AM
#33
Pro
Thread Starter
Your frame looks beautiful! I don't regret using the POR15 because I think it's going to last a lifetime, but I sure don't want to go through the process of taking a scotch brite pad to the entire frame and suspension at this point to prep it for a finish coat. Arrgh.....
12-30-2011, 10:00 AM
#35
Your frame looks beautiful! I don't regret using the POR15 because I think it's going to last a lifetime, but I sure don't want to go through the process of taking a scotch brite pad to the entire frame and suspension at this point to prep it for a finish coat. Arrgh.....
12-30-2011, 10:19 AM
#36
Drifting
Your frame looks beautiful! I don't regret using the POR15 because I think it's going to last a lifetime, but I sure don't want to go through the process of taking a scotch brite pad to the entire frame and suspension at this point to prep it for a finish coat. Arrgh.....
Cross members are sure easier than the whole frame, but remember, you have put in A LOT of work to get your baby down to a bare frame... If you're okay with not thinking about what could've been 2-3 years from now, then stick with what you have... I never could and would've always thought, "Why didn't you take the couple of extra days (and money) to fix this the way you wanted"...
Just my two pennies and everyone is entitled to one... BL: My recommendation would be to take a little break, maybe do a little research on the different products, and re-shoot that thing...
Rogman
