Gaps appearing in door area when I lift my vette?
#1
Racer
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Gaps appearing in door area when I lift my vette?
Hi folks,
I've noticed that when I lift the vette, cracks will open up on the area of the upper inner door on the body. I'm using my EZcarlift, so the car is being lifted evenly just like a 2 post lift would.
Here are pics of the driver's side door gap on the lift, the inside door area on the lift and the driver's side door gap on the ground.
Here are pics of the passenger's side door gap on the lift and the inside door area.
I can easily open and close the doors while the car is on the lift and it doesn't feel and different that when it's on the ground. I know these C3's flex a lot, so my question is, does this look normal or do I have a problem.
I've noticed that when I lift the vette, cracks will open up on the area of the upper inner door on the body. I'm using my EZcarlift, so the car is being lifted evenly just like a 2 post lift would.
Here are pics of the driver's side door gap on the lift, the inside door area on the lift and the driver's side door gap on the ground.
Here are pics of the passenger's side door gap on the lift and the inside door area.
I can easily open and close the doors while the car is on the lift and it doesn't feel and different that when it's on the ground. I know these C3's flex a lot, so my question is, does this look normal or do I have a problem.
#2
Le Mans Master
my '81 does the same thing when I put it on a two post lift. A lot of other cars flex on a lift also. I think it's normal.
#4
Instructor
When I bought mine my driver door was very hard to open. I was doing work on it and when up on the lift I noticed the gap. I lowred it back down and the door opened so much better.
Very strange...
Very strange...
#5
Melting Slicks
I would NEVER lift my 77 with the t-tops off, they might never fit again. When I set my project back on wheels after a several year "nap" on stands the door gaps at the tops closed up a lot quite like the OP shows. It is not a function of rust as my car has none I have yet found... more of flex from a 50 year old frame design. Yes it is really based on the 1963 (!!!!) Sting Ray, and precious little changed over the entire production run.
#7
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '07
A bit of flex might be normal, but that much isn't. I'd be checking the body mount bushings, along with a very thorough check for rust in the birdcage and/or frame. My 77 doesn't flex a bit when I lift it. These cars are rather notorious for inconvenient rot - so much that they came up with a way to weld heavily galvanized parts for the C4 frames.
#9
Racer
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That's why I find this so strange. I had my interior completely out over the winter and checked the birdcage and interior body mounts extensively. There was almost no rust and everything was solid. I also checked the mounts behind the inspection panels in the rear wheel wells and they are in great condition as well. The frame has some light surface rust on it but is very solid too. So if the birdcage and frame are good, why am I getting these body gaps when I lift it on the hoist?
#10
Melting Slicks
I'm wondering about bonding at the firewall? Maybe that is an issue on yours?
Our '77 was doing the same thing, but I have not had it up in the air since I re-bonded the fenders to the firewall and cowl. Just a thought.
Adam
Our '77 was doing the same thing, but I have not had it up in the air since I re-bonded the fenders to the firewall and cowl. Just a thought.
Adam
#11
Melting Slicks
Because of a couple things exclusive to Corvette production.... I already mentioned the frame design age. I failed to mention the Union Pipefitters who assembled your frame's general disregard for accuracy or quality assurance in the jigging and welding of these chassis. Or the Pipefitter's complaints that GM as providing them with absolute crap materials to fab from. Or th general strife at the time between labor and management. These cars flex oddly since the torsional and bending rigidity of the machines depends largely on the care excercised in the fabrication and construction of the frame...the body is rubber mounted and contributes almost zero to the ridgidity of the chassis as a whole... and these are all "vintage" vehicles now which allows the depredations of time, mileage, care and other factors to show any weak points vividly all these years later. If your flex bothers you it is repairable... seam weld the frame. Add back the likely "missed" factory stitch welds and gusset the thing as per GM racing guidelines. Use alloy or other "solid" body mounts. Be certain all your body seams and joints are tight and correctly bonded. Or simply try and limit the time it spends in the air and enjoy it.
#14
Melting Slicks
Adam, I'm not a body guy, so I'm curious to know how you went about rebonding. Thanks. Sorry OP not trying to rob the post, but with many of us experiencing this separation, we can all benefit