brakes
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
brakes
My problem is when you hit the brakes firmly, it pulls to the right, what should I be looking for, I would appreciate any advice. (1972 Corvette)
I've had the car about 3 months (really nice car)
Thanks, Jerry
I've had the car about 3 months (really nice car)
Thanks, Jerry
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 45
From: nassau co. new york
mine were doing exactly what you describe and i ended up replacing the 4 calipers with rebuilt ss lined loaded ones.replaced the 4 flex hoses and bled the system repeatedly.this was the only way i was able to stop the pulling completely. it was mostly the calipers in my case.if the pads are contaminated or flex hoses weak pulling might occur.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
You might be getting more braking action on the right side than the left. Possible causes are:
Leaking fluid on the left side.
Stuck caliper piston on right side (not retracting and heating up the brake pads)
Bad hose on right side not allowing caliper to retract
Stuck caliper piston on the left side (not pressing the pads against the rotor)
If any of those has been going on for a lot of miles then you should see the pads more worn on one side than the other.
Leaking fluid on the left side.
Stuck caliper piston on right side (not retracting and heating up the brake pads)
Bad hose on right side not allowing caliper to retract
Stuck caliper piston on the left side (not pressing the pads against the rotor)
If any of those has been going on for a lot of miles then you should see the pads more worn on one side than the other.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
Likes: 174
From: WI
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 576
Likes: 3
From: Muskegon MI
It certainly could be the caliper binding up or a plugged up hose. Let me know if you are looking at replacing the calipers and if you have any questions.
Andrew
800-442-0335
http://www.muskegonbrake.com
Andrew
800-442-0335
http://www.muskegonbrake.com
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,698
Likes: 9
From: Johnson City TN
You might be getting more braking action on the right side than the left. Possible causes are:
Leaking fluid on the left side.
Stuck caliper piston on right side (not retracting and heating up the brake pads)
Bad hose on right side not allowing caliper to retract
Stuck caliper piston on the left side (not pressing the pads against the rotor)
If any of those has been going on for a lot of miles then you should see the pads more worn on one side than the other.
Leaking fluid on the left side.
Stuck caliper piston on right side (not retracting and heating up the brake pads)
Bad hose on right side not allowing caliper to retract
Stuck caliper piston on the left side (not pressing the pads against the rotor)
If any of those has been going on for a lot of miles then you should see the pads more worn on one side than the other.
I upgraded to O-ring pistons (already had SS sleeved calipers) and no problems since.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,668
Likes: 695
From: Danville Illinois
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If it has recently had work on the ft brakes, check to make sure the pads are the same type, mine pulled to the left.
Does it pull more when you get the brakes hot, the warmer my brakes got the more it pulled. Difference in pad Autozone/Advance .
Does it pull more when you get the brakes hot, the warmer my brakes got the more it pulled. Difference in pad Autozone/Advance .
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
Everyone above is right.... and then some
It can be anything:
bad tire
bad shock
bad ball joints
bad tie rods (any of them, no matter front, rear, right or left)
broken spring
faulty piston in the brake calipers
oil on the brake shoe (any brake shoe)
glazed pads or overheated rotor(s)
bad or loose roll bars
broken frame, cross member, or even motor mount
to diagnose:
get the car up on a ramp if possible (the type used for alignments where the tires are still holding the car up)
look for leaks - antifreeze, oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid that is near a brake shoe
take a large pry bar and test every joint by prying on them - not huge effort, if something doesn't look right -it isn't
check the rear suspension as well because it literally could be any of them.
If those checks fail to bring up the issue:
check the body mounts and motor/transmission mounts
If those checks fail:
put the car up, off its wheels and check the bearings,
pay close attention to the trailing arm bushings
hopefully it's something simple, but if you methodically go through each suspension point, you should find it.
and the super benefit is; you'll know your car stem to stern so you'll see problems before the happen
It can be anything:
bad tire
bad shock
bad ball joints
bad tie rods (any of them, no matter front, rear, right or left)
broken spring
faulty piston in the brake calipers
oil on the brake shoe (any brake shoe)
glazed pads or overheated rotor(s)
bad or loose roll bars
broken frame, cross member, or even motor mount
to diagnose:
get the car up on a ramp if possible (the type used for alignments where the tires are still holding the car up)
look for leaks - antifreeze, oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid that is near a brake shoe
take a large pry bar and test every joint by prying on them - not huge effort, if something doesn't look right -it isn't
check the rear suspension as well because it literally could be any of them.
If those checks fail to bring up the issue:
check the body mounts and motor/transmission mounts
If those checks fail:
put the car up, off its wheels and check the bearings,
pay close attention to the trailing arm bushings
hopefully it's something simple, but if you methodically go through each suspension point, you should find it.
and the super benefit is; you'll know your car stem to stern so you'll see problems before the happen