riggs 74

Are you running a mas air sensor in the cold air intake, just curious since I don't see one in the photo.

Your engine bay looks really good.

Terry

CWerner

Terry

I'm duplicating Gordon's setup. I've got the credit card MAF sensor on order along with a bolt on slot bracket that attaches to my elbow.

Thanks for the comments

Gordonm

If all goes well mine will be at AR headers tomorrow afternoon. Still in the Florida airport after being gone for 10 days on vacation so hopefully everything will work out tomorrow and I will be on the road late morning to get the headers and exhaust done. I'll keep you posted.

CWerner

Time for an update:

I got my ARH headers now that they developed them on Gordon's 72.

Good news is they are much improved. They fit nicely. The only issue I have is that they are still very close to the floor pan, but not touching. I've added DEI heat shield to the entire bottom of my car. It's about 1/4" thick. The header has about 1/8" before I put the slip fit extension on. At this point the driver side touches the heat shield. When I add the slip fit clamp, it's now pressed tightly against the floor pan with heat shield. On the passenger side, all is good. I have at least 1/2" clearance including the clamp. I know we want the exhaust tucked in there but I think another 1/2" would have been better on the drivers side.

The other concern is the rack steering shaft that goes up to the turn u-joint/rag joint. At the bottom of the shat there is a collar that has 2 set bolts and nuts. There is about a 1/8" clearance issue for the locking nut. Easily fixed on my end with resessed heads.

I think both of these issues need to be tweaked by ARH on future headers. Not on mine, I'm done.

I've also been working on fuel and brake plumbing. Just about complete. It's a pain getting all the right fitting to make everything work. I've lost lots of time chasing parts. This is an area where the cost issues grow quickly. If only Summit was right down the road from me like they use to be when I lived in Ohio.

I've also been working on the wiring harness. Everything looks good but I need to shorten the wire runs about 18-24" to make it custom

I've also run into a starter fit issue with the headers. It's too tight but it's the starter, not the headers. I bought the CRS starter but I need to get more of a bullet style.

Anyway, I'm still a ways away from turning the motor over. All fluids are in but I want to button up a few item first. I've now moved my date out to Labor Day as the first drive. I could do it sooner, but time to work on the car is challenging. Today was the first time in 4 weeks I've touched it. I need 3 good weekends with all the right parts and it would be drivable.

More to come.

riggs 74

I'm glad to see you are making progress. Yes the fittings are a pain to work out which ones, how many and am I missing any? They add to the expense of the build but in the end its a much better job.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Terry

Gordonm

As I was talking to Nick at AR he was saying that on these older cars with motor swaps anything can happen. Body movement and different motor mounts and different accessories. Even though mine is custom built from them it is tight in some some spots but I do have clearance. I figured yours would be a little tight in some areas. Overall very satisfied with the exhaust setup on mine. It maximized the ground clearance.

Of course on mine I was not happy with my setup so I have taken things apart again. Removing the Steeroids and trying the Borgeson setup. This will clean up the PS plumbing. I also had to ditch my plug wire setup from running completely behind the headers. Just not enough room with the 1 7/8 headers without burning the plug wires. I now have the front 3 cylinders coming out, the rear one is still behind. I am going to keep the coil pack down low. Might put a heat shield on them at some point. Just little stuff like this eating up time and money. It will get done at some point.

CWerner

G,

Post some pics about how your redoing your coil packs. You and I have a similar setup with the coils mounted on the lower firewall. When I installed the headers on Saturday, I didn't even look at how tight it's going to be in that location. I'm planning on installing the original style heat shield over my coilpacks.

Thanks

Gordonm

Ok will do. I got my steeroids out today and installed the Borgeson box and idler arm And drag link. Still need to do the tie rod ends and the plumbing and stuff but so far I like the install. I will be curious on how it stack up against the steeroids. Then onto the coil packs and the new plug wires.

hopeuntilwecant

great progress and great thread so far! love the car

CWerner

Got some small updates and pics. Headers are basically complete. Here are some pics:







And the fuel system is plumbed, just waiting power.

CWerner

I'm back at it after months of frustration with headers. Getting the header installed was one thing. Getting them to hook up to my magnaflow BB dual exhaust was a challenge. The main issue was the extension pipe between the header and the magnaflow system. You would think 16" would be simple to cover. NOT! ARH tried three times to get the pipe right. The last time they used Gordon's car as a template. Didn't work. Anyway after Dickinson around with it I got the passenger side to work. On the drivers side I ended up having a temporary aluminum extension made. I'll replace it at a custom SS shop down the road. The headers cost me 3-4 months. I hope they were worth it.









Now I need to finish the wiring harness, bleed the hydraulic, and the start her up for a test run. Goal is no later than Labor Day. After that, put back together the interior and then enjoy.

Oh wait, I forgot the electric wipers, headlights, and.........

riggs 74

You'll forget all about the rough spots in doing the LS swap once you get out and start enjoying it out on the streets. Your setup will bring a smile to your face every time you take it out for a spin.


Terry

CWerner

Need help.....



I installed the GM wiring harness/ECM/fuse-relay to the LS3 crate motor as it said: Fuel pump wired, fan wired, fuse block wired, ignition wired.... I also wired all of the old wires that went to the starter, to the starter. the only things not wired were the MAP sensor and O2 sensor. I didn't have the coils wired yet, nor the spark plug wires. My plan was to crank the motor, but not start it.... just turn her over.



When I hooked up the battery, I got power in the interior (lights came on). When I turned the key to the first position, I heard the fuel pump engage for about 20 seconds. At that point I turned the key to crank the motor..... nothing happened.



So, what does my trouble shooting guide look like???? Thanks in advance for your opinions.

donnie1956

Check the old wire that goes from the key circuit to the starter. On my 78 it was a red wire with a fuseable link. It and a couple other wires go on the small terminal. They power the solenoid when key is turned. Also double check your engine ground and the ground from the battery to frame. These LS engines are must have a good ground.

CWerner

Thanks Donnie.

I did check those items yesterday. I think it may be as simple as the neutral lock out. I don't have it wired, so I will check it out next.

CWerner

It was the neutral safety lock out.

And she cranks!

Tim 1973

Thats great.. When do you think you will be firing it up? You are so much farther along then I am....

Zoomin

Just now found this thread, don't know how I missed it. You're going to have a sweet setup when this is done.

CWerner

Next steps are:

1) Fabricate Custom length spark plug wires
2) Install proper length fan belt
3) add O2 sensors
4) add MAP sensor harness adapter
5) wire-in the DBW

All af this should get done this week. At that point I should be able to start her up!!

pauldana

Are you going to get a chassis dyno when done? It would be interesting with the LS