BOSTONCAMARO

Ok so when the motor is on number 1

Make sure balancer is at "0" TDC, remove driver side valve cover, ensure that the rockers 'wiggle' and that they are loose, this is because the motor is up on number 1 on its compression stroke....DO NOT adjust anything.

At this time, take off distributor cap and even though in this picture, the carb is blocking the view...the metal tab / contact on the rotor should be facing the tip of the valve cover as it does in this picture. This is because that on an HEI like you have, even though it is an MSD, from your posts, the number one on the cap...happens to be right there, right in line with the number 1 cylinder when it is up on number 1 on TDC.

If you find that the rotor is looking more like it is pointing at say number 3 or numer 2 cylinder, we will need to get you set up to put distributor in right...some people will say, doesnt matter and you can rotate plug wires on the cap etc, but it is not the right way and it is not how Chevy did it.

BOSTONCAMARO

examples of TDC, how it looks on tab



When set up on number 1, on compression stroke, both rockers on number 1 should be loose as the valves should be closed and the piston is up all the way...mark of TDC should look like this and rotor of distributor should be directed at number 1 as I previously posted.

BOSTONCAMARO

Sounds like the cam is advanced when the chain was set up, not what I am talking about with the dist...

Check the dist as discussed and we will go from there, just checking the basics will make sure you are starting at the right place....I tend to think we will find an issue with initial set up of dist...I could be wrong....but lets see

BOSTONCAMARO

how do teh spark plugs look? did you pull them for a read? can you post pics of them....lay them out, specifically like to see number 7 and what do you have them gapped at?

also waht carb are you running?

fishslayer143

have you checked for a leak in the intake gasket? while idling, spray a little carb cleaner along the gasket above #7..if idle changes, its leaking, causing a lean condition, causing the heat ... if thats not it, then loose the rocker on the exhaust valve on #7 ,til it clicks, then back down 1/2 turn.. it may be too tight, not letting it close all the way..if you don t want to adjust w/engine running, bring the #7 piston up on compression stroke [ both valves closed] and loosen the exhaust til you can turn the pushrod with your fingers ..there are only a few reasons for that tube to glow.. eliminate them one by one

surfertom

exhaust valve is the one above the exhaust port in the head. adjust them both. be sure they are both closed while adjusting.

fishslayer143

Brady...exhaust valve is always the one directly above the header tube, right on #7 ... loosen til you can spin pushrod, then tighten 1/2 turn... and count how many turns it takes to loosen ...max is 1 full turn.. if its much more, thats your problem..if its not, then you have eliminated that possibility ..

brady5885

ok i checked the rocker/valves.... the exhuast was about 1/8 too tight but is still doing the same.
i doesnt glow on idle but only when its say 2k for a minute
i sprayed carb cleaner around the intake with no change in the idle speed

fishslayer143

well, then I suggest a compression test on that cylinder to see if the valve is burnt .. test cylinders on #3 and #5 too.. so you can see if its in line with them..all 3 should be within 10 lbs or so .. a vacuum gauge will show a bad valve as well, the needle will drop regularly as that cylinder fires ... you have already verified plug wires are good and correct? and ignition timing is set correctly?, no restriction ? ..rocker is set at 1/2 turn? and you verified full motion on that valve while idling? ? .. you re running out of causes for that tube to glow..its either a bad valve or a F/A issue ...... unless someone else has an idea?

brady5885

With this cam having 0 miles on it would that matter? i have read on a few other forums that headers will glow upon break in......(but only one.... i dont know)

fishslayer143

I have never seen a new cam cause just one tube to glow ..I cannot imagine why it would .unless an exhaust valve was overtight., you have verified it is not overtight.... .now, a flat cam lobe because of improper break-in sure will cause problems tho . thats why I asked if you verified full motion on the rocker arms of #7 while idling. ..did you do the initial start -up after this engine was built or did previous owner? do you know proper cam break-in or if he did? how much running time is on this motor now?

fishslayer143

to stab and align the distributor , you need to bring the 0* [ mark with white paint or chalk] on the balancer to the center mark on the front timing tab ..but you need to be on the correct stroke, the compression stroke ..remove #1 plug,put your finger over the hole, turn engine , as the piston comes up it should blow you finger off hole as the balancer reaches 0*..if it doesn t, go around again. stop at 0*...then drop distributor in with rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire terminal on the cap..thats the front on the drivers side ...disconnect the vacuum advance canister , connect your timing light, start engine and turn distributor til you get about 10* advance on the tab...then reconnect vacuum adv hose

briankeery

I really do applaud you Joe for all the help you are offering Brady on his problem.....probably the main reason i love this forum so much. Something's really telling me (and sincerely I hope I'm wrong) that the cam has wiped the lobe. Good luck with your continued troubleshooting.

fishslayer143

thanks Brian, I ve been working on these cars since they were new.. I enjoy helping new enthusiasts if I can.. you may be right about cam lobe, thats why I keep asking if he verified full motion of rockers ..

fishslayer143

you re saying the #7 rockers move similar amout while idling as the other cylinders rockers ? then your cam is OK, another cause eliminated.....is your dist back in and timing set?..now move on to compression test ..

fishslayer143

the only mark you need to use is the 0* , many have a groove all the way across at 0*... some balancers have marks at 10* increments from the 0* up to that 60* mark, some go all the way around .. some have at 60, 90, 180 ..not for initial ignition timing.. .. position the balancer at slightly before the 0* at the center of the timing tab and drop the dist pointing at #1... ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE...if you still aren t sure, bring the #1 piston up on compression stroke til it reaches the top of the bore,stop.. stick something in the plug hole, you can feel the top of the piston? look at your valves on #1 both should be closed .. ..look at your balancer at the timing tab center , thats the mark..drop the dist. pointing at #1 ... ...sorry, .maybe Im just not explaining it well enough....anybody else want to jump in?

fishslayer143

540 vette

How does the car idle? If the plug wires were mixed up or in the wrong spot the car would not idle well if it idled at all. Does the motor sound like it has a miss. Heat is lean, check the plug in that cylinder. Bad lobe on intake, or bad plug wire and it's detonating. Check the push rod it could be slightly bent. If the cam has zero miles on it he may have wiped a lobe during breakin. I doubt that all your wire are mixed up, the car just wouldn't run.

briankeery

Just a thought here. If these spark plug wires are new, why not try replacing the number 7 wire with one of the old ones?

fishslayer143

Chevy Small blocks respond with 8-16* initial , and enough mechanical advance to total 34-38* , when added to initial ,all in around 2500rpm. the bigger the cam, the more initial timing.. also, you can use 10-12* on the vacuum advance can, because at WOT, there is no vacuum , so it puts 0* in. .. this gives at light throttle cruise, around 44-46* for best MPG.. do you have the distributor in yet?