Bird Cage - Paint or Not To Paint
#1
Burning Brakes
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Bird Cage - Paint or Not To Paint
Hey Guys,
I'm retro-fitting a '76 cab Bird Cage to fit an '80. New floor pans for sure, but all of the clips and brackets from my '80 cage will be moved over to the donar. My question is, should I paint the cab frame afterwards or have it galvanized (as I've seen some guys do)? If it's to be painted, with what? Powder coat?
I'm retro-fitting a '76 cab Bird Cage to fit an '80. New floor pans for sure, but all of the clips and brackets from my '80 cage will be moved over to the donar. My question is, should I paint the cab frame afterwards or have it galvanized (as I've seen some guys do)? If it's to be painted, with what? Powder coat?
#2
Melting Slicks
if it were me, I would simply paint, I am sure it will be fine for another 30 to 40 years if not longer....I would just use a good sealer type primer or self etcher, then flat black it. Or....use a rust inhibitor from say Pep Boys, something that turns surface rust/rust into an epoxy...then prime it with cheap spray bombs and cheap flat black spray bombs.
I think anything beyond that wouldnt be worth the expense, time etc
I think anything beyond that wouldnt be worth the expense, time etc
#3
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Birdcages were coated at the factory to help slow down rust; the 76 is probably zinc chromate green; the 80 black or dark gray.
I would think you would want to coat any bare areas.
I would think you would want to coat any bare areas.
#7
Racer
Wow seems like bird cage week!...
I went with powder coating. It is not cheap, but it will be very well protected. However, having said that, painting with POR15 is also excellent.
One thing that I would like to see you do is to paint the inside of the cage as well. I am talking about the inside of the box frames, etc. I use the Eastwood rust converter with the tube and 360 degree spray nozzle. It's an awesome product and will convert the rust you don't see outside. Protecting the inside will add additional protection and not permit the cage from rusting from the inside out.
I went with powder coating. It is not cheap, but it will be very well protected. However, having said that, painting with POR15 is also excellent.
One thing that I would like to see you do is to paint the inside of the cage as well. I am talking about the inside of the box frames, etc. I use the Eastwood rust converter with the tube and 360 degree spray nozzle. It's an awesome product and will convert the rust you don't see outside. Protecting the inside will add additional protection and not permit the cage from rusting from the inside out.
#9
Melting Slicks
Self-etching zinc chromate then primer then paint. How often are you going to let this thing sit out in the rain/snow? My 81 was zinc chromate primed and painted from the factory, mostly overspray.
#10
Racer
By the way, did not mention, when I looked into galvanizing the bird cage, I was told that we would not get some of the internal rust off the inside of the birdcage and boxed frame of the car. In other words, you'd still have to paint the internal portions of the cage and frame.
Additionally, not all paints are compatible with the galvanization process. Certain paints will not adhere even if the part is not "quenched" at the end of the process. Quenching leaves an residue that is a problem. However, even without that done, not everything will stick. When I looked into it, I was actually thinking of overkill and powder coating the galvanized parts. I found it was not possible and stayed with the powder coat.
As for letting it sit in the rain or snow... .... it depends, some of us have no choice. In Florida, you will get rained on, at some point. Rain is given here, particularly in the Summer. Also, some cars may not get a garage life. It may be covers. Last, it does not have to sit in the rain. If the water gets down into the pillar by seeping past the sealing/weather stripping, you can't dry it. If metal is exposed, you're getting rust. The OP is in Canada, granted, but once you are at that level, protect the cage as best you can. Most don't want to do this twice!
Additionally, not all paints are compatible with the galvanization process. Certain paints will not adhere even if the part is not "quenched" at the end of the process. Quenching leaves an residue that is a problem. However, even without that done, not everything will stick. When I looked into it, I was actually thinking of overkill and powder coating the galvanized parts. I found it was not possible and stayed with the powder coat.
As for letting it sit in the rain or snow... .... it depends, some of us have no choice. In Florida, you will get rained on, at some point. Rain is given here, particularly in the Summer. Also, some cars may not get a garage life. It may be covers. Last, it does not have to sit in the rain. If the water gets down into the pillar by seeping past the sealing/weather stripping, you can't dry it. If metal is exposed, you're getting rust. The OP is in Canada, granted, but once you are at that level, protect the cage as best you can. Most don't want to do this twice!
#11
Melting Slicks
I hear you, and it's good to formulate a game plan. But you can do a better job sealing these frames up than they did at the factory. Seal more of the water intrusion points. Prime it up with a self-etching chromate primer. You can put that stuff on bare steel and leave it outside for years and it won't rust. I've done it. I use it on all my outside parts. Buy a really good urethane calk or use 3M 2-part self-leveling seam sealer and work it into ALL the edges of the metal pieces. That, along with a good paint, and you'll have it well sealed up, better than at the factory. If water DOES get in there it should over-fill and spill on your carpets.
One idea I toyed with, but didn't implement (yet) is a drain nipple on each side. Basically weld in a steel piece, or screw in a brass nipple on each end and run a hose down the A-pillar under the plastic trim. Run it down and exit the car at the floor or go out the kick panel. That would allow an escape for any moisture that does (and WILL) eventually get in there. It would prevent it from pooling up and rusting the metal below. Nearly all moon-roofs have a drain, usually one on each side of the vehicle ...and electric antennas have them as well. I might do that on my car yet, I haven't decided. But I've had the same thoughts you have. On the later cars, GM used an expanding foam inside the A-pillars to prevent wind from entering the cabin. This also can hold moisture. So, you want to keep that area dry. But installing little nipples or small steel tubing (probably have to be installed at an angle) shouldn't create a wind issue.
Let us know what you come up with.
One idea I toyed with, but didn't implement (yet) is a drain nipple on each side. Basically weld in a steel piece, or screw in a brass nipple on each end and run a hose down the A-pillar under the plastic trim. Run it down and exit the car at the floor or go out the kick panel. That would allow an escape for any moisture that does (and WILL) eventually get in there. It would prevent it from pooling up and rusting the metal below. Nearly all moon-roofs have a drain, usually one on each side of the vehicle ...and electric antennas have them as well. I might do that on my car yet, I haven't decided. But I've had the same thoughts you have. On the later cars, GM used an expanding foam inside the A-pillars to prevent wind from entering the cabin. This also can hold moisture. So, you want to keep that area dry. But installing little nipples or small steel tubing (probably have to be installed at an angle) shouldn't create a wind issue.
Let us know what you come up with.
Last edited by Mark G; 03-27-2013 at 03:29 PM.
#12
Burning Brakes
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Last edited by avner; 03-28-2013 at 12:45 PM.