C3 78 Paint adventure
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
#2
Le Mans Master
I may not have contributed, but IMHO that color is going to look spectacular, especially in those desert sunsets. Please tell me you're going to lower it (edit - lower than OE specs), add a PC or similar style aero package, and have a tire/wheel combo planed that absolutely rocks...
And, FWIW I just love to see everyone's field expedient paint booths.
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And, FWIW I just love to see everyone's field expedient paint booths.
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Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; 05-22-2013 at 10:25 PM. Reason: clarification
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
To: THESKUNKWORKS..Color was pick by wife, I am color blind. It looks red to me. We are putting some ground effects, front spoiler/scoop/air dam and rear skirts. As to lowering it, this is the height we got after installing Neoprene bushings.
The paint booth..works pretty good.
To: MARKIDS77....No not water born..Wandabase HS..I do not like the current wheel, we were looking at the OE type..but unsure for now.
To: 74Ken..I do not know what type of wheel they are or the depth of them. I do know that they have a spacer behind and between the rim and brake drum to hold it out from the brake caliper. The were on the car.
If there is a way to lower it with too much trouble I would like to know about it.
Thanks for feed back.
The paint booth..works pretty good.
To: MARKIDS77....No not water born..Wandabase HS..I do not like the current wheel, we were looking at the OE type..but unsure for now.
To: 74Ken..I do not know what type of wheel they are or the depth of them. I do know that they have a spacer behind and between the rim and brake drum to hold it out from the brake caliper. The were on the car.
If there is a way to lower it with too much trouble I would like to know about it.
Thanks for feed back.
#7
Melting Slicks
I would bet you tightened the control arm shaft end bolts while the car was up in the air. They should not be tightened until the car is at ride height on the ground. That should drop the nose some.
I would not mess with rear ride height until you finalize the wheel/tire combination, and drive the car a bit to settle the rear suspension. Your ride height will likely change after a few road miles. If you find at that time you want it lower, longer spring end bolts will allow some tuning for height.
I would not mess with rear ride height until you finalize the wheel/tire combination, and drive the car a bit to settle the rear suspension. Your ride height will likely change after a few road miles. If you find at that time you want it lower, longer spring end bolts will allow some tuning for height.
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Markids77....some very good ideas and yes...I think we did not have the car on the ground...it was up in the air on jack stands....I never thought of that. Thanks for the insight. The car has never been driven except to bring it here..so no wear on any tiers.
#9
Race Director
Do not worry abut the height right now. This is because you have no weight on the car....with so much being out of it right now....and TRUST ME...when you start to assemble it...it will lower down. I have done numerous Corvettes and they all look like yours in the height department and begin to go down once fuel, interior, headlight, etc are added.
AND...yes..you can lower it without too much trouble.
The color is wicked!!!! AWESOME CHOICE.
DUB
AND...yes..you can lower it without too much trouble.
The color is wicked!!!! AWESOME CHOICE.
DUB
#10
Le Mans Master
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks ...I spent some time researching ride height, and looked at a lot of pic's. After the comments, decided to wait until I finish. Right now just learning to paint is the issue. That is why I decided to start with the smaller parts...practice, lot of practice.
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 05-24-2013 at 08:34 AM.
#12
Le Mans Master
Well, from the looks of things you're apparently a quick study. Every time I see another nice looking home paint job such as yours in the works I'm that much more inspired to tackle doing so myself when the time comes. Keep up the good work, and do post up as it comes together.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
With all advice I received on the paint problem HELP thread I posted, I have come up with a check list, at least for me to follow;
All setting are variable depending on seasonal temps, most cans I have read say 75 deg. ideal temp. Here in the high desert; low humidity and high temps; may-Oct. / mild Nov.-April
Set compressor regulator to correct psi for the type of material begin sprayed,
40 psi for base / clear and 6-8 psi at the gun regulator.
Set compressor regulator to 60-75 psi heavy material such as Evercoat Feather Fill G2 and sealers primers, and the gun to 25-30 psi.
Ensure correct tip is installed,
proper reducer... Material with reducer can be added back to can.
activator / hardener with material can not added back to can ..
use for the temperatures. Fast = for small repairs / parts.
Medium= mild temps.. .....slow= high temps
Wet the floor. Drain water out of compressor.
Ensure the parts are clean not over sanded
Spray at a constant quick rate, light coats first, then slower for heaver coats, do not stop or pause this causes runs, DO not start your spray at the top and work down this causes runs. work from the bottom and go up this reduces runs.
Spray either vary early in the AM or at night when temps are lower.
If temps are vary high put material in refrigerator over night to cool it down.
Read and re-read the tech sheets. and ask questions....
Spray a test on something and practice often.
All setting are variable depending on seasonal temps, most cans I have read say 75 deg. ideal temp. Here in the high desert; low humidity and high temps; may-Oct. / mild Nov.-April
Set compressor regulator to correct psi for the type of material begin sprayed,
40 psi for base / clear and 6-8 psi at the gun regulator.
Set compressor regulator to 60-75 psi heavy material such as Evercoat Feather Fill G2 and sealers primers, and the gun to 25-30 psi.
Ensure correct tip is installed,
proper reducer... Material with reducer can be added back to can.
activator / hardener with material can not added back to can ..
use for the temperatures. Fast = for small repairs / parts.
Medium= mild temps.. .....slow= high temps
Wet the floor. Drain water out of compressor.
Ensure the parts are clean not over sanded
Spray at a constant quick rate, light coats first, then slower for heaver coats, do not stop or pause this causes runs, DO not start your spray at the top and work down this causes runs. work from the bottom and go up this reduces runs.
Spray either vary early in the AM or at night when temps are lower.
If temps are vary high put material in refrigerator over night to cool it down.
Read and re-read the tech sheets. and ask questions....
Spray a test on something and practice often.
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Here is the hood that gave me a bit of trouble.(I'd rather claim it was the hood, than my ablity)
moving on to the rest of the car
I know most paint the entire car at one time, and maybe that is ok if it were a single coat type of paint, like house, or spray can where one coat is the same as the last coat no difference in depth, tone, color, I have found this stuff is like stain, the more you apply the deeper it gets.
moving on to the rest of the car
I know most paint the entire car at one time, and maybe that is ok if it were a single coat type of paint, like house, or spray can where one coat is the same as the last coat no difference in depth, tone, color, I have found this stuff is like stain, the more you apply the deeper it gets.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
Here it is 7/26/13 and we are painting color on the body, front end. What a challenge to paint, his I had a lift to get the car up in the air better, it is hard to get under and paint the bottom side with the size of the gun, canister, air hose...and not be so close to run the paint. And to make sure you have a good even coat.....
Looks good in the photo..we'll let it dry then take a closer look.
Looks good in the photo..we'll let it dry then take a closer look.
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
it's going to need another coat or two to get where we want in depth....I was just telling my wife we should have maybe picked a sold color and not the pearl for our first attempt at body & paint on this car..But then what kind of a challenge would that have been.
I see spots on the paint, checked the car and the camera..it's the lens..need to clean that..
I see spots on the paint, checked the car and the camera..it's the lens..need to clean that..
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 07-26-2013 at 11:24 AM.
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
So here I am sanding, buffing,and painting and wondering how come I am going through so paint, recheck the settings, recheck how I add the reducer..but it still vary thin, takes several coats to cover an area???? I have no choice but to order more paint...I dig out the paint Numbers on the receipt, there on the bottom it says reducer....What???... I call the store and ask they guy who mixed the paint. Are you adding reducer to the pain...yes he says....and then I add reducer to the paint as per the instruction on the can and info sheet from company. Mix is 2:1 by me adding reducer it becomes 1:1......
I marked this can NO REDUCER......MIX @ 2:1 to reduce..
Makes a big difference in the coverage....
I marked this can NO REDUCER......MIX @ 2:1 to reduce..
Makes a big difference in the coverage....