SonOfGaladriel

Hello All.
Please understand that I am new to classic cars, have no prior mechanic skills, and I must refer to my shop manual for anything I plan to do with this car. However, I am very eager and willing to try repairs/restoration on my own, when appropriate. I'm trying to learn the skills with a wrench!
Just as I was feeling extremely satisfied with myself today, after having completed the process of dyeing and replacing my old door panels and trim and fixing a poorly tracking window, ...BAM!!!....no brakes on the way home from a trip to the hardware store!
Brake pedal all the way to the floor just to get it to slow down. Limped home a few miles. Pretty scary.
Got it in the garage, crawled under, and found a huge dripping leak coming from the driver's side front wheel. No leaks at the other wheels or master cylinder. Got on the search function here and read that it was likely the caliper.
Took off the tire, took off the caliper, and found this:the gasket, o ring, seal, whatever, was popped out. Still very flexible and intact. This is where the leak was coming from, upper inside piston. Turned the car on, pumped the brake, and saw the fluid coming from this spot.

I pushed the 'seal', gasket, o ring, whatever its called, back into place so it looked like the other 3:

Turned the car on and pumped the brakes. Leak appears to have stopped but brake pedal still goes all the way to the floor and slowly comes back up, but it does have a bit more resistance than before.
I have not put the caliper back on. I understand that I need to wipe everything clean with brake fluid remover first?

Did I fix the problem? Should I top off the brake fluid level and drive straight to the mechanic to complete the job?
Should I take the caliper itself to a mechanic and have them inspect it before putting it back on?
From what you see, does the caliper need to be replaced or rebuilt to prevent the gasket/o ring/seal from popping out again?
Do I really need to replace the brake pads since one got wet? One was obviously quite wet, the other not so much. They look fairly new.

I could not get the pistons to push back into position, so I disconnected the hose leading to the caliper to bleed off the pressure thinking I was going to put it back on the rotor, but decided to hold off until I get some advice here.
Now I'm not sure what to do in terms of putting it all back together?
I assume I need to bleed the lines now to get all the air I've now introduced but I've heard this can be a difficult job and I don't have any special equipment (bleeders, vacuums,etc) to do that.

Here's my current brake fluid level. Fluid appears to be in good condition. Clear as you can see on my finger, but I'm no expert. Does it look as if I need to have the fluid replaced or just topped off?



Honestly, I'm a bit nervous to drive it. My driveway is very long and very steep with a few sharp U turns on the way down and there is no way for a tow truck make it up to the house.
Any advice on how to continue the repair myself? Any advice on how to get it safe to drive to a mechanic?
I'd like to do what I can, but, as I've said, this is my first attempt at anything automotive mechanical.

TimAT

Easy way is to replace the caliper. I'd do both on that axle. New pads too. Then go back and bleed the brakes all the way around. The replacement calipers from NAPA and all the others are pretty much all sleeved.

noonie

Agree with replacing the calipers is the easiest, any local parts store has or can get them. The rubber you see is just the dust seal, the real seal that is leaking is underneath that.

As far as the pads, they look almost new, I would just soak them in gasoline for 5 minutes and dry them off. Been doing that for 40 years with no problems. Your choice.

Try and cap off the lines or reconnect the caliper so you don't drain the master dry. Will make it easier to bleed.

Glad you're willing to learn and do this yourself, part of the fun of ownership.

7T1vette

You should remove the dust seals and pull the pistons on that caliper. At least 1 seal is damaged/rolled/cut. Reseal the piston(s), reinstall, clean all external surfaces, pads and rotor with lacquer thinner or brake cleaner and put it together.

The system 'pumped up' because the shuttle valve in the brass 'proportioning valve' (it is really only a front/rear toggle valve) has probably tripped to operate only the front calipers; you may not be getting any pressure to the rear pads at all. You need to reset that valve to center it, before bleeding the brakes and putting the car into operation again.

The M/C needs to be filled to within 1/4" of the top surface and cap put back on before bleeding the brakes. You can likely get by with only bleeding the back ones (both bleeders on each rear caliper). When bleeding, push down and release pedal slowly, so that shuttle valve doesn't trip again. When bleeding, if you do more than 10 pedal-pumps, you need to open and refill the M/C with more fluid. Don't let the M/C fluid level get too low, or it will start pumping air into the system.

If you do that and all appears to be good, let 'er rip.

SonOfGaladriel

Thank you all for the replies and help! I have found that it will be easier and quicker for me to just replace the entire caliper. I could not find a local shop that repairs calipers and I'm sure that if I did, it would be at least a few days wait for the repair.
I found the caliper at Advanced Auto parts for $50 and get a $25 store credit toward future purchases which I'll use for the other caliper when the card arrives in the mail.
I'm heading there now to pick it up.
Noonie- I'll take your advice and just soak the pads in gasoline and reinstall them. They are brand new and I hate to toss them.
Fingers crossed the install goes easy. Worried a bit about the 'bleeding' process. Still a bit confused by all that.

arklacat

7T1, you need to read again. The problem is on the front, not the rear.

Easy Mike

Good advice from TimAT; replace both front calipers. The other one is as old and possibly in the same condition as the bad one.

Do the pair.

arklacat

Oops. Double post. Sorry.

SonOfGaladriel

Agreed. I will purchase the other caliper after the gift card arrives in a few weeks. I went ahead and bought new lifetime pads as well. Starting the replacement right now. Fingers crossed for an easy install and fluid bleed.
Thanks again all for the help! You are a great bunch!

SonOfGaladriel

Got the caliper on and bled the line leading to the wheel with the help of a friend. The pads are still gripping the wheel a bit and I can't seem to get them to loosen up so that the wheel will spin freely. What do I need to do? There is good brake pressure but it doesn't seem to release much. I pushed the rubber thingies on the master cylinder lid in as far as they would deflate when putting the cap back on.

ddawson

There are springs behind the caliper pistons to keep the pad in contact with the rotor.

Without being there it's hard to tell, but what you feel may be normal.

7T1vette

OK. Just change the word "rear" to "front" in my previous post.

Easy Mike

Corvette brake pads are in contact with the rotor at all times. They do not retract. You should be able to move the rotor, but you should feel a definite drag from the pads. The rotor should not spin freely.

SonOfGaladriel

That is exactly what I feel when I move the wheel, a drag. Looks like I have done it correctly. I'm actually looking forward to changing out the other side in a few weeks! Should take about 1/4 of the time.
I have not yet had a chance to drive it, but plan on taking her out later tonight for a short spin around the town to test them out. Fingers crossed she stops.
I must say, it is quite satisfying accomplishing the door panel replacement, fixing the window, and now this caliper replacement. These are things I never would have attempted, due to the intimidation and ignorance factors, before owning this car. The money I saved by doing it myself is also quite satisfying!
Of course I owe a great debt to all of you guys, and many others from past threads, of which I have learned from!
It stinks when a problem arises, but it is so refreshing to come here, do a search, or post a 'help' thread, and get the information leading to a resolution!
Thanks again everyone.

7T1vette

If you find that you are actually enjoying the work on your car while fixing problems, then you can actually claim to be a

GEARHEAD !!

SonOfGaladriel

I actually do like working on her. I especially like the small restorations I'm doing to her, knowing that I'm making her look, feel, and drive better. I look forward to the next project. Never in a million years would I have thought I could become a 'gearhead'.
Took her for a ride tonight and the brakes work great!

7T1vette

Doing the work and getting successful results yields a VERY satisfying and empowering feeling. You and the car have become a "Team". Welcome to the "DIY Auto Mechanics" club.