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If you are doing the drive, I put my nose in a 5 by 9 u haul open trailer. Tied it down good. No issues. Shipping? I think it is too flimsy to ship in anything less than a plywood and pallet board case.
Originally Posted by rvzio
Tony don't worry about the front end parts. If you still need them I will deliver them if you buy the donuts! Will get with you as to when.
R
Originally Posted by Norm07
DG
I stripped that area by hand and the radius on mine was minimal, to the points it's a sharp edge...so to speak.
And....the angle from the top edge down is different all around the opening. I was very careful when sanding to stay away from that edge to maintain the edge.
Originally Posted by SPCL FX
Wow ! You're really moving along nicely!
I believe that your easily going to finish ahead of me !
I wish I could pace myself like you !
Really looking good DG !
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
Hey DG ,mine doesnt have much of a radius either
....RATS.....all of my replies were deleted when I reposted the individual comments!
Thanks everyone for the great help and advice. Derek...I'm not getting the complete clip/just the flat part that surrounds the headlights since mine is covered with bondo and cracked off. Thanks for the pics Norm and RR.....now I see what I need to do.
I'm going to the garage between rainstorms to study the situation.
Last edited by doorgunner; 03-17-2018 at 03:09 PM.
That would probably ship in 2 end-to-end boxes like I did with the bumper lip. 40-50 bucks FedEx or UPS ground.
Derek.........(As we said in Nam) "There it is!" Make a box!
I spent a couple more hours on the deck channel sanding the added fiberglass to prepare for body filler. I also decided to seal the rectangular drain holes so leaks in the rectangular deck support/drain would not leak because of hidden stress cracks or the large hole in it on the driver's side. Per Derek I placed aluminum sheet metal tabs in the holes to support the fiberglass filler.........
Now....back to the garage to apply body filler across the rear channel.
Last edited by doorgunner; 03-17-2018 at 06:36 PM.
More channel work/nearly finished (or close enough for the paint shop).
I sanded the body filler to a sharp edge across the back of the channel....Then turned the sander on it's edge and sanded the filler on the channel shoulder................................ ...
I used a 2 1/2" dia. sanding wheel to cut the corner radius' into the channel..................
Since I extended the cargo area all the way to the rear frame crossmember I filled in the vents with fiberglass earlier....today I leveled the inside of the sealed vents with body filler. I will install 1/2" aluminum tubing so the rainwater can drain completely (using lowbucks method)...........
Nice tools DG, they come in very handy for certain types of work. Your getting pretty good at all this dude!
RVZIO
S'Up R..........that sander really makes a straight/flat cut and saves time/who woulda' thought. I've used two quarts of filler and starting on my 3rd can.
So far I'm finding only surface voids/divots. I accidentally dripped filler onto the drain groove in the channel (too tired) and thought I'd just pop it out with a screwdriver.....not so....
I had to use a small chisel and hammer to break it loose/then sand the remainder flush
It's good to know the filler adds strength to the repair as well.
(Sleep 3 hours/awake 3 hours/repeat )
Last edited by doorgunner; 03-18-2018 at 06:46 AM.
Since I extended the cargo area all the way to the rear frame crossmember I filled in the vents with fiberglass earlier....today I leveled the inside of the sealed vents with body filler. I will install 1/2" aluminum tubing so the rainwater can drain completely (using lowbucks method)...........
For the vents, are you going to leave the grills? And with the larger cargo area, will the gas door also remain.. but go nowhere?
Nice job on that radius, btw!
For the vents, are you going to leave the grills? And with the larger cargo area, will the gas door also remain.. but go nowhere?
Nice job on that radius, btw!
Thanks oldgto......................yes, I have to fit the chrome vent grills...the gas door will be usable but I have to seal around the filler pipe so gas won't drip into the extended cargo/trunk space....also have to reroute filler pipe-to tank between rear wall of trunk and tail light panel.
Since I couldn't sleep last night I decided to update the 1st page of the thread to make it easier for me and members to locate certain parts of the Project.....Whew!
NOTE: When I started this thread, I had no idea of what life had in store...so this is turning into more than a build-thread.
I'm new to Corvettes and want to buy a very neglected '68 convertible near my home with late '70s front & rear bumpers....
Side note: I've had the "fever" since 1968 when I saw that $4,550 red Corvette on the showroom floor at the local dealership.....and ended up with the $2,695 1969 Camaro convertible that was sitting next to the Corvette!
I'm not trying to "restore" to a factoy look since the car is a "basket-case" vehicle......I have no bodywork experience.....just want to get the body back to 1968-looks....and have a D.D./keeper just for me.....
Thanks for any input/threads-to-read...since I'm learning as I go....
Some of the experimental mods that I try on this car would NEVER EVER be tried by me on an original car!
Build Date Dec 14, 1967
Time for a TABLE OF CONTENTS!
Advice/Finding the "Right Car".................................... ......pg. 1-2
Thanks RR......I was taking the day off but I needed to see why the bolts wouldn't hold the hinges for the deck lid in place even after I ran a tap through the nuts. The rivet nuts were rust so much that they were spinning inside the deck support channel.
I wasn't about to remove the support to replace two rivet nuts so BUBBA told me to drill through the support channel and install 2 thru-bolts to hold the upper hinge in place.....I listened.......
Today's challenge was to replace the twisted-off rivet nuts on the driver-side deck hinge with something stronger. I used I/4" x 1" x 6" long steel flatbar drilled and tap and drilled for pop rivets to hold it in place once it is bolted together. I also tapered the bolt threads to help locate the blind holes they fit in...........................
It isn't positioned yet......(notice the hole that the seized rivet nuts made when I tried to remove the retaining bolts).......the pop rivet you see is installed in the plate-only so I can hold it to move the plate into position/it also prevents the plate from falling out of sight into the end of the support-channel.............................
The insert has been positioned and the two upper bolts have been tightened.............................
The lower bolt is tightened............................... .........
Deck lid bolt hole measurement across.................................. .........
Bolt hole measurement across from hinge to hinge........................
That's it for the A.M. I pulled (ouch) a back muscle. Tomorrow I will install the two pop rivets to hold the threaded bar in place....then I will fiberglass over the large hole.
Last edited by doorgunner; 03-19-2018 at 03:02 PM.
More deck lid work this afternoon. I sanded down the filler I added around the edges of the deck lid. There are some areas that need building up/out more.
Passenger-side top of quarterpanel............................ ..
Before gassing the hinge mount in, be sure you have it either in place correctly or within range of any adjustment ability. WAAAAY over 99% you have this covered, but other people are gonna use this as a guide to do this repair...
Before gassing the hinge mount in, be sure you have it either in place correctly or within range of any adjustment ability. WAAAAY over 99% you have this covered, but other people are gonna use this as a guide to do this repair...
Thanks Derek.....with my meds I need you guys to double-check me just in case I (usually) forget something. I measured the hinges hole-to-hole just to be sure.....within 1/8" of the deck lid mounting holes....plus.....each hinge has 1/8" of sideplay to make up the difference.......
Out to the garage with my new straightedge to tweak the inside shoulders of the channel.
Thanks Derek.....with my meds I need you guys to double-check me just in case I (usually) forget something. I measured the hinges hole-to-hole just to be sure.....within 1/8" of the deck lid mounting holes....plus.....each hinge has 1/8" of sideplay to make up the difference.......
Out to the garage with my new straightedge to tweak the inside shoulders of the channel.
Looks great DG !
At this pace your gonna run off and leave me in your dust !
At this pace your gonna run off and leave me in your dust !
Thanks SPCLFX!
I spent about 6 hours fighting......errrr.....having a fit......errrr fitting the deck lid in to the channel. So much for "trim the edges of the deck lid to be square" and then bolt the lid in place!
The hinges were straight within 1/8" overall but when the lid was installed the lid sat crooked. I spent 2 hours readjusting the hinge bolts just to be able to rough-in the edges of the lid that I built-out.
I did chip a couple spots on the deck lid edges since it was too wide to fit in the channel on the first try. After 2 more hours of sanding away some of the edges/body filler I was finally able to NEARLY close the lid.
Another two hours of sanding off more of the body filler I was finally able to close the lid completely.
I used a mini level to sand the channel shoulders square.........
The left side is sanded square and the deck edge sanded away until it fit in the channel..........................
I did the same procedure to the passenger-side until it fit in the channel..............
The passenger door gap/lid gap/quartepanel gap are ready to be filled so they are all flush with each other....................
Front and rear pics of the deck lid roughed to size/it opens and closes with no problem................................
The deck lid probably was permanently bonded closed 30 years ago by the previous owner when he converted the '68 nose/bumper and tail light clip to '76 rubber bumpers front and rear
Tomorrow I will repair the chips on the deck lid edges and also fill in gaps where needed.
I now see that it would have been better to build-out the edges of the deck lid with fiberglass rather than use body filler to avoid chips while handling it for hours.
Last edited by doorgunner; 03-20-2018 at 10:04 PM.
03-17-2018, 03:01 PM
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