Been looking for a 2 seater car for while and didn't have that much interest in Vettes until I happened upon this 1979 L48 4 speed car with only 42,000 miles. It needs the driver's seat cover replaced, and an original style radio put back in. Under the hood I'm installing a new water pump, hoses and a tune up. The biggest issue is it darts back and forth on the road at highway speeds, it has just been safety certified and had a recent alignment so any suggestions will be appreciated! Was going to add some photos don't see how, probably because it is my first post.

 

This is how you post photos.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/c3-gen...post1583096314

https://www.corvetteforum.com/c3-gen...irections.html

 

There's an adjustment that's often overlooked. That's the Steering Gear Box adjustment. On top of the steering box is a big nut, with a stud in the center, that is slotted for a flat blade screwdriver. This is for taking up any loose slack in the steering gears. Common thing on these cars. Loosen the big nut, while holding the center stud with the screwdriver. Then hold the wrench and tighten the stud to a reasonable 'tightness'. Don't overtighten, as your taking up the lash in the gears and you don't want to bind the gears either. Better to do it in stages as necessary.

 

ok thanks, I have been searching the forums for answers, looks like it's the steering box adjustment like you mentioned or the control valve or possibly alignment issues. It did just have an alignment before I bought it so that should be ok if it was done right.

 

ok I will give it a try when I get a chance

 

 

Nice lookin ride

 

We're approvin' here at the shop, great looking 'Vette!

 

Very nice!

 

How is your suspension? My 81 drove pretty much exactly as you describe. Not stable at high speeds or on bumpy roads. I had the control arms and bushings replaced front and back then a 4 wheel alignment and it is much better. If you have 30+ year old rubber bushing they need to be replaced. Also these C3 vettes are a little darty handling. If it is too much or you just don't like the feeling when you have your next alignment get just a little bit of toe in and it should help.

 

Welcome Rumbles. Road ruts on the freeway with 255 60 X15 tires will make the car a bit darty. 2 lane blacktop and twisty roads equal fun.

 

Thanks for the comments, regarding the darting it seems almost dangerous to drive. A slight amount of correction and the car seems to have a mind of its own and it wants to pull the wheel out of your hand. It seems like even sitting in the driveway and you turn the steering wheel slightly right it wants to continue turning in that direction. That makes me think it might need the control valve adjusted or replaced. They replaced a power steering hose for the safety certificate and maybe some dirt got in and screwed things up. Just a guess though this is my first Vette. Thanks for any help.

 

Nice car, When I bought my 79 (28k miles) it darted all over the road at speed. Changed the 15 year old tires, new Bilstein HD shocks and did the steering adjustment and added grease. Made all the difference in the world.

 

I agree, you need to adjust the power steering control valve. It's not that hard, really! You have to jack up the car (safely) and then disconnect the hydraulic ram from the frame (one bolt, it's easy). Make sure the adjustment for the control valve is accessible before you start.

Big SAFETY TIP here. Keep your hands and arms out of the steering wheel BEFORE you start the car, because the steering wheel may move suddenly and violently, depending on the control valve is set. Just reach around the steering wheel to start it, and you'll be OK. After the first initial movement, it should settle down and be still.

The control valve adjustment is really a 'centering' act between left and right. With no input, it shouldn't move at all. If it does, it's because it's biased in one direction or another. By manually pushing on the rod in either direction, with no input you should feel the same amount of force going in either direction.

When you're happy with that, shut the car off, attach the ram to the frame and then start it up again (same precautions) and see if the steering wheel stays still and then, if you can feel the same amount of force going either way. If you can, put on the wheels, try that out and if it feels ok, drop the car and take it out.

Anybody else, please feel free to chime in, if I left something out!

 

Nice ride. I have the almost clone of yours. I have the pacecar airdam on the front.
Have somebody wiggle the steering wheel while you look for where the play is.

I messed with mine so long I finally put a rack and pinion kit in it. Tight as a drum now. I love it.

Where in ontario? Some locals might be able to help out.

dodosmike

 

Nice find! My all original '79 had 43K miles when I got it last Spring. I had to rebuild the rear end, trailing arms, replace a leaking steering box, and replace all of the bushings. I'm finding that "all original" means most parts need rebuilding or replacing. Now drives like new and probably good for another 34 years.

 

Hi there, I live in the town of Essex way down at the west end of Ontario

 

Good looking car! Put the front PC spoiler on and the car will look better, IMHO, get more air through the radiator and handle better at high speeds, after you fix the steering and suspension of course.

There are so many places a Corvette can have slop in the front steering and front and rear suspension. You just need to check everything piece by piece. Any original rubber front or rear will be bad just from age. Lower ball joints never lasted long, I'm sure they are due. The idler arm is usually loose by 40 to 50 thousand miles.

It sounds like a disaster, but if you get good rebuild kits from someone like Wilcox during a sale, it eases the pain and you will get quality parts. They aren't really that hard to rebuild, just time consuming and a lot of elbow grease. The rear can be tough if the trailing arm bolts are frozen, still doable in your own garage.

One problem you may have after replacing worn parts is most alignment shops have no clue how to properly align these cars. Do not use stock specs here either. Search for alignment and you should find specs from one or more of the distributors that will work better for handling on modern radial tires.

It's well worth fixing it right. It can make the difference from loving the car or growing to hate it.

 

I assume that since it was just certified safe for the road by a licensed mechanic all worn parts should have been replaced, they did replaced one lower ball joint, sway bar links and bushings, master cylinder and front brake calipers and pads, then did an alignment. Now sure they may have missed something and my plan is to take it back to them before I start messing with it. In Ontario basically the mechanic and where he is employed are responsible for the certified vehicle for 31 days after the inspection, so I will give them a chance to sort it out at their expense. If they would have road tested as they are suppose to it would never have left the shop that's how bad it is.

 

One lower ball joint??? WTF, if one is bad, the other one ain't far behind. I'd be jacking them up, that's for sure! Make em replace the other ball joint too!