First Timer - 1979 L82 Corvette Frame Off Restoration Thread - LOTS OF PICTURES!
10-05-2013, 01:45 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
I don't know much about powdercoating but its my understanding that its more durable than traditional painting methods. I'd get your costs first and if you can afford powdercoating get it done. If you do decide to prime and paint it yourself use quality products, just covering it with Rustoleum won't last long.
I did the front suspension and the front portion of my frame on my 64 SS about 8 years ago with spray cans. It still looks pretty good, and I drive this car quite a bit in the summer.
10-05-2013, 02:39 PM
#22
Drifting
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
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I would shop around and check out how much powder coating will cost. I found a place locally that does it and it was under $350 for the whole process, including sand blasting. That was an easy decision at that price. I know that prices vary a lot so I would check into it and then decide. If was worth it to me not to have to deal with any of it.
Seems like it is coming along well.
Good luck and thanks for saving another vette.
Seems like it is coming along well.
Good luck and thanks for saving another vette.
10-05-2013, 02:46 PM
#23
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Yes, I suppose depending on what kind of driving you do it can last a while. I based my experience on a vehicle that was used year round in a lot of nasty winter weather and freeze/thaw cycles. In that situation you'd get two years at most out of a rust paint and generally need to reapply every year.
10-05-2013, 03:03 PM
#24
Melting Slicks
Yes, I suppose depending on what kind of driving you do it can last a while. I based my experience on a vehicle that was used year round in a lot of nasty winter weather and freeze/thaw cycles. In that situation you'd get two years at most out of a rust paint and generally need to reapply every year.
10-06-2013, 12:31 PM
#25
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I would shop around and check out how much powder coating will cost. I found a place locally that does it and it was under $350 for the whole process, including sand blasting. That was an easy decision at that price. I know that prices vary a lot so I would check into it and then decide. If was worth it to me not to have to deal with any of it.
Seems like it is coming along well.
Good luck and thanks for saving another vette.
Seems like it is coming along well.
Good luck and thanks for saving another vette.
Yes, I suppose depending on what kind of driving you do it can last a while. I based my experience on a vehicle that was used year round in a lot of nasty winter weather and freeze/thaw cycles. In that situation you'd get two years at most out of a rust paint and generally need to reapply every year.
Last edited by Chadillac2000; 08-04-2014 at 12:08 PM.
10-06-2013, 01:39 PM
#27
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Last edited by Chadillac2000; 01-09-2014 at 11:41 AM.
10-06-2013, 01:42 PM
#28
Pro
I also really appreciate you documenting your work Chadillac. You're off to a flying start. Thanks, and keep up the courage!
10-08-2013, 09:26 PM
#30
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I'm going to strip everything off the frame tomorrow. More pictures to come!
Last edited by Chadillac2000; 01-09-2014 at 11:41 AM.
10-08-2013, 09:46 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
I don't know much about powdercoating but its my understanding that its more durable than traditional painting methods. I'd get your costs first and if you can afford powdercoating get it done. If you do decide to prime and paint it yourself use quality products, just covering it with Rustoleum won't last long.
Doing great work, once its all apart 9on my frame off) I boxed up stuff in groups and as I got to that area I unboxed that box with all nuts and bolts in baggies all marked.
Once it starts going back together it get so much easer.
I'm in Texas so the cost is likely different
Tim
10-08-2013, 09:51 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
Powder coating is great and looks awesome. I've used it on race and street motorcycles for years. The problem with it on something like a car frame is once you get scratches and chips, there is no good way to make touch ups that look good. With paint you can at least touch it up. If it is going to be a show car, it is the only way to go. It wouldn't be so good for an NCRS car.
I did the front suspension and the front portion of my frame on my 64 SS about 8 years ago with spray cans. It still looks pretty good, and I drive this car quite a bit in the summer.
I did the front suspension and the front portion of my frame on my 64 SS about 8 years ago with spray cans. It still looks pretty good, and I drive this car quite a bit in the summer.
10-08-2013, 11:07 PM
#34
Melting Slicks
If you are indeed trying to keep costs low so you can sell this car, I wouldn't worry about powder coating a frame. Try spending that extra expense to fix the hole in the floor.
10-09-2013, 12:47 AM
#35
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Mine cost me $500.00 that included the sandblasting and all cross members and the front bumper support metal.
Doing great work, once its all apart 9on my frame off) I boxed up stuff in groups and as I got to that area I unboxed that box with all nuts and bolts in baggies all marked.
Once it starts going back together it get so much easer.
I'm in Texas so the cost is likely different
Tim
Doing great work, once its all apart 9on my frame off) I boxed up stuff in groups and as I got to that area I unboxed that box with all nuts and bolts in baggies all marked.
Once it starts going back together it get so much easer.
I'm in Texas so the cost is likely different
Tim
Exactly my thoughts. But the car was originally my grandmother's sister-in-law's. She passed away a long time ago and it wasn't driven much after.
The money can be better spent in other ways.
ALSO...no build sheet on the gas tank. The paper may have had writing on it at some point, but it's blank now.
Last edited by Chadillac2000; 01-09-2014 at 11:42 AM.
10-09-2013, 01:02 AM
#36
Safety Car
The next step is removing the majority of the components from the frame. Once we have that done, we can move on to getting this frame stripped down and repainted, possibly even powder coated depending on price.
Last edited by hunt4cleanair; 10-09-2013 at 01:05 AM.
10-09-2013, 01:11 AM
#37
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10-10-2013, 12:02 AM
#38
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I had an opportunity this afternoon to spend some time stripping all the remaining items still bolted to the frame.
Menage Tois.
As you can see, the build sheet didn't stand the test of time.
And after a couple hours of wrenching, I had everything removed.
Luckily I was able to get the trailing arm bolts out rather easily which allowed the entire rear suspension and differential to be removed.
Now it's time to find somewhere to sandblast and powdercoat the frame, as well as getting quotes for a variety of things.
Menage Tois.
As you can see, the build sheet didn't stand the test of time.
And after a couple hours of wrenching, I had everything removed.
Luckily I was able to get the trailing arm bolts out rather easily which allowed the entire rear suspension and differential to be removed.
Now it's time to find somewhere to sandblast and powdercoat the frame, as well as getting quotes for a variety of things.
Last edited by Chadillac2000; 08-04-2014 at 12:10 PM.
10-12-2013, 09:01 PM
#39
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After calling around to a few places this weekend, I found a powder coating facility locally that can take care of the sandblasting and powdercoating for $550-$600, so I'll be dropping it off on Tuesday and getting it back Monday of the following week.
Does anyone have any recommendations as to which parts of the restoration I should attack next. Paint? Drivetrain? Suspension?
Does anyone have any recommendations as to which parts of the restoration I should attack next. Paint? Drivetrain? Suspension?
10-12-2013, 09:24 PM
#40
Burning Brakes
I Think the best thing to do is work on getting a rolling frame, makes it much easer to move around the shop and you can put wheel rollers under it once the suspension is back together. Are you going to make any mods to the suspension? No sense in doing work twice. Are you going to rebuild the Trailing arms? Are you leaving the stock rear and front springs? You have lots of choices to make.