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I don't have pictures of the front jamb yet. Will take some next time the door is off again. The gaps are such that I can just insert a 11/64" drill bit.
I made good progress on the driver side too. That'll be for the next update.
In the meantime, thanks for taking a peek!
Then I hang the door back and sanded the gaps up to 1/8", using a 1/8" drill bit as a reference. The door can open even with such a small gap.
Next I'll work on the flushness aspect, then open up the gaps further using progressively larger drill bits, by increments of 1/64", up to 11/64" (like the passenger door), then remove the door again and do the final touches on the jamb and door. Above are the high tech tools I use to get regular gaps.
Everything looks great! I know I've had my fair share of VPA sanding so I know what it takes to get the results you are getting. Keep up the nice work, you , must be very pleased with the fruits of your labor.
Then I hang the door back and sanded the gaps up to 1/8", using a 1/8" drill bit as a reference. The door can open even with such a small gap.
Next I'll work on the flushness aspect, then open up the gaps further using progressively larger drill bits, by increments of 1/64", up to 11/64" (like the passenger door), then remove the door again and do the final touches on the jamb and door. Above are the high tech tools I use to get regular gaps.
Thanks for taking a peek!
Looking great. I'll be needing this info in the not to distant future. Thanks
Thanks everyone! I'm pretty happy with the gaps so far. Priya, that sandpaper comes from a roll of sticky 80 grit paper I bought at a local autobody supply store. It's the same paper I stick to my sanding boards. It sticks as long as the mating surface is clean, and I change it every 10 minutes or so.
Next I fabricated aluminum brackets for the hood pins. Bought modeling clay to figure out exactly where to drill the holes. The location and angle of the pins need to be tweaked precisely.
Because I wanted a symmetrical setup on the top of the hood, there were not many options for the pin locations.
On the passenger side, I had to drill through the inner steel bracket.
Ultimately I will paint those brackets to make them look nicer.
Hood Pins - A bad news, good news, bad news, good news story
Bad news: I realized that one of the two aluminum disks had a smaller hole than the other. This prevented me from opening the hood. There was absolutely no play between the pin and its disk.
You could see the difference with the naked eye, and it turned out that the good disk had a 17/32" hole, while the bad one had a smaller 1/2" hole. These are anodized pieces, Eddie Motorsports Billet Hood Pins MS110-45CA, for $125 + taxes.
Good news: I got in touch with Eddie Motorsports, explained the problem, and they decided to send me a replacement disk. I did receive it.
Bad news: Well, the replacement part had the same issue: a 1/2" hole. Great!
Good news: I gave up with Eddie Motorsports and bought a 17/32" drill bit. Drilled through the hole, losing the anodized layer in the process. I can open the hood now, which is kind of important.
Winter is a good time to build a paint booth. The first step was to build an outdoor 8x16x8ft ShelterLogic to make room for the paint booth inside the garage.
Layout the booth's baseboards. Dimensions will be around 13ft wide, 21ft long and 8ft tall. I wanted at least 3ft of room everywhere around the car for comfortable painting (without the 2 bumpers attached). At the same time, I still wanted to be able to position the car in front of the booth.
11-04-2018, 09:21 PM
Passenger door gappiness and flushiness - Part 3
