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That kit from Ecklers is interesting for repairing the rocker panel mount points. Bottom line here is that you got it repaired and the rocker panel mounts up.
I use these... if the owner is concerned about making sure it looks like what GM installed.
And I also use these... and I grind down the points so it will lay flat and either tack weld it in place or use an epoxy adhesive. These can be purchased at most hardware stores.
Not sure who you got your wiring harness from but mine is from PSI. Fan 1 is programmed to come on at 182 and fan 2 comes on at 192. I will also wire the AC to trigger both fans. once I( wire the AC into the system I'll post the wiring for that). That will happen after body is married to frame.
Tim
My harness is stock, but that's not what counts really, when you say "programmed" how is it programmed, via the PCM, if so what PCM are you using?
As listed in my wiring harness installation manual stock programming is 226 and 235, I'm not sure how PSI programs this but I would think its inside the PCM, Also any other requirements removed as its a stand alone wiring Harness.
That kit from Ecklers is interesting for repairing the rocker panel mount points. Bottom line here is that you got it repaired and the rocker panel mounts up.
I use these... if the owner is concerned about making sure it looks like what GM installed.
And I also use these... and I grind down the points so it will lay flat and either tack weld it in place or use an epoxy adhesive. These can be purchased at most hardware stores.
DUB
Before I purchased the repair kit I did a search on the form and the only thing I found was using this kit. Should have asked...
Only a few things to do on the rolling/running/frame.
Need a little help, as you see below I have started working on the door Jams. I pulled the hinges. I will blast them replace pins, bushings and springs. Looking at the jams both Left and Right they just look terrible. Can someone post a few pictures of a correctly restored jam or original jam. Did they put any seam sealer where the fiberglass butt's the the metal?
I will be on Vacation starting Thursday. Headed to Germany. I'm not going to have time to get on here while on the other side of the big pond.. I'll be returning on the 30th.
Sorry I don't have any completed just yet but soon will. I do know that I had to spend a few days prepping them. I would like them to have a smooth finished look instead of the rough as a cob look.
RVZIO
Can someone post a few pictures of a correctly restored jam or original jam. Did they put any seam sealer where the fiberglass butt's the the metal?
Thanks
yes there was seam sealer put there .Not a lot and mine was all crumbly and doing nothing so I scraped it out gave the area a quick sanding and put some fresh stuff on so its kinda close to original ,
I use the SEM beige seam sealer. It is catalyzed but is also flexible and is sandable if needed.
In the bare steel areas of your hinge post..I shoot PPG epoxy primer and let it dry...than I apply the SEM beige seam sealer and then prime up the rest of the door jamb area when I have completed all of the work. I have photos of this process from beginning to end ...but I have to find them.
When using the SEM sealer ...even though I am concerned that I apply it so it does its job and looks good...BUT...my MAIN concern is at the very top portion of the fiberglass panel where it stops and the sealer 'blends' into the steel pillar post. THIS AREA is important so your door weatherstrip does not get all chewed up due to the sealer not being really smoothed out and a perfect transition.
Also...for what it is worth...I would not apply anything at his time on your hinges until you have installed them and got the door fitted....because...there is an area that you really want to visually verify when the door is open....because if you don't...you can end up with a hyper-extended door and the edge of your door being damaged. And this also goes for brand new hinges. I have taken brand new hinges and performed my modification to them to make sure I do not have to fix the door.
When you get the door back on...let me know.....there is a place you need to look at.
Not that this matters...but
When I get the Corvettes in my shop.... what I am going to describe to you to look at. I look at before I remove the doors. So I can modify what I need on the hinges and then I remove the hinges and prep the post and apply the epoxy, seam sealer and prime the jambs and then re-assemble.
Just wanting you to understand the process...and you can do as you wish.
So...if you want..I guess you could get the hinge post to your liking...and then the portion of the hinge that contacts the shims and hinge post is epoxied...that will do. But leave the portion of the door hinge that the door bolts to bare steel.
Thanks Dub, it wiil be awile before im ready for the door to go on as I want the body to be on the frame before I gape the door.I will do as you have suggested ol leaving the door post bare metal. This is my first time on a corvette but know on my 37, the body mounting to the frame has evertthing to getting the door gaps correct. With the body up high it sure makes it easer to work on the jams....
Prepping and working on your hinge post is still 'do-able'...even with it beign up and not on the frame.
The reason is that what you are looking for does not matter because it deals with the function of the hinge in relation to the door. Gaps are irrelevant..but getting the door flush to the outside fender kinda important.
I'm Back in town for a week, Had a few chores around the House but was able to get in the shop today.
I'm working on getting all the work under the body compleated so I can shoot the underside and marry the frame with the body. I have decided to change on what I'm shooting on the underside for a few resions. I'm gpoing to use lizard skin shound deadining and Cerimic heat coating.
Today I installed the new Seatbelt body mounts. Did both sided but only showing pictures as they both look the same.
10-08-2017, 05:52 PM
may need to tone them down abit..
