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Lots of killer parts going on that thing..plus the SHO Taurus in one of the pics is a nice contrast...do they get in fights in the garage?
I think you saw one of the cars in my engine photos. Those pics were taken at Black Wolf Auto...they did the heavy lifting of the drive train and brought the car back to me so I could redo the engine compartment. Besides...it wouldn't be a fair fight.
Awesome thread! This is really cool to see as I plan on doing a very similar resto-mod in the near future but with ridetech's new set up. Its nice to see that quality work can be done without taking the body off the frame if the car is in good enough condition!
Awesome thread! This is really cool to see as I plan on doing a very similar resto-mod in the near future but with ridetech's new set up. Its nice to see that quality work can be done without taking the body off the frame if the car is in good enough condition!
Thanks! The key is the frame and the mounts. If they are in good shape it can be done. I went around the entire car with a small hammer to make sure the frame was solid. The other concern you should consider are the fuel and brake lines. The main brake line is replaceable although a PITA but if the fuel lines are compromised or in poor shape a body lift may be necessary to replace them.
Fortunately my car only has 42K original miles, and was kept inside its entire life, so the frame and body mounts are all excellent. I may take the windshield out and coat that section of the bird cage in epoxy/POR15 as it does show some slight surface rust. The brake lines look to be in great shape and I will likely replace/reroute the fuel lines once I swap over to fuel injection and a new tank. Im still up in the air as far as engine goes....LS crate motor or rebuild the original 350 with aluminum heads/cam/valvetrain/etc. Right now Im leaning towards LS....something about a forged, stock displacement, aluminum 347 LS that will rev to 7K backed by the factory M21 4 spd sounds like a lot of fun to me
Update - I've installed the headlamp assemblies, front bumper bracket, Master Cylinder, tightened up the brake lines and assembled the wring harness. The harness was really easy with the aide of the DrRebuild color diagram. I'm really glad I decided to replace these. That is because when I was comparing the old with the new I could really see Bubba's handy work...what a mess. This progress did not come without it's share of snags as everyone knows...the corvette gremlin shows itself in deceitful ways. I tried to test fit the new rag joint to the steering column and guess what I discovered. That spline on the steering column is hosed up so the rag will not slip on...arrghhh. I wasn't planning on replacing the steering column at this point but it looks like that is exactly what will need to happen. Upon close inspection the spline is a mess. Anyway, it's getting close, another month and her motor gets dropped back in...can hardly wait.
Hi Ranger,
What is the rust inhibitor you are using (Manufacture) and what type / make of black spray are you using
Thanks
Sig1977
It's Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. It's engineered as a primer coat so you can spray on it bare metal also (got a little happy with the grinder as I cleaned the frame). No need for a top coat but you can apply one to achieve a certain finish if you desire.
Thanks Ranger, for the response.
I recently purchased a product call Rust Converter metal primer from Corroseal. The product chemically alters the rust and prevents rust from returning. A friend of mine is in the business of frame on restros and he recommended this product to me. I have very light surface rust on portions of my frame but it was bugging me so I will treat in the spring. A little cool in NH right now. P.S. Also, I use to live just across the WW bridge in MD till 95 when I moved north.
Installed new wiring harness, expansion tank, front bumper and the Borgeson PS box. My big challenge is the steering column at the moment. With the new PS box in it appears the length may be an issue. I have a Flaming River column ordered so I hope the length will work.
Last week I installed the rad carrier, grill, control arms and QAs. I also adjusted the front cross member to get the bumper gap correct. This I found is done using the frame extension coupled with the shim packs under the front of the horseshoe. Next up are the front wheel assemblies, steering linkage and steering column (custom ordered from Flaming River). I would have done that this weekend except for the damn cold weather we've been having. I can stand 30+ with my heater in the carport but this cold is too much so I'll wait for warmer temps before I finish this part of the build. Then she will be ready to send to Black Wolf to get her rumble back.
I hear ya on the weather....Norfolk is miserable. Curious what wiring harness you're using...I found it strange that neither Painless, nor American Auto Wire sell a C3 harness.
I hear ya on the weather....Norfolk is miserable. Curious what wiring harness you're using...I found it strange that neither Painless, nor American Auto Wire sell a C3 harness.
I got them from Paragon. They are produced by Lectric Limited. Nice piece of work as far as I can tell.
Well I caught a decent day on Sunday and took advantage of it. I was able to get the entire front suspension installed as well as the motors for the headlamps. Now all I need is the steering column from Flaming River and can send it back to have the power installed.
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