1969 Parasitic battery drain
#1
1969 Parasitic battery drain
I am having a problem with parasitic battery drain. I have pulled fuses and found my replacement radio was wired in wrong. I found no other draws, yet, usually after 48 hours the battery is dead. Any ideas what to look for? I am looking at the courtesy light switch on door frames now.............
#2
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
Posts: 33,898
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I HATE parasitic drains. Check the date on the battery......older batteries will go dead from car alarms systems and from cell phone chargers being plugged in when not in use/etc.
Being a rookie, I would say clean the battery and terminals first to prevent a slow drain because of dirt/grime on the case.
Disconnect the positive cable from the battery and connect a voltmeter between the positive post and the positive cable terminal. Adjust the voltmeter so that it reads the amount of parasitic draw easily.
(Tape the door-jamb switches closed so they will not draw voltage...and it will be easier to enter/exit the car also
A. Remove a fuse/label it so it goes back in the correct slot.....did the parasitic draw drop to Zero?
If not continue with step A until each fuse is removed.....INCLUDING fuses in aftermarket components (radios/amplifiers/alarms/etc.)
If the parasitic voltage remains....unplug the alternator connection and check the voltmeter.
If the parasitic voltage remains.....remove the large wire from the rear of the alternator that supplies 12Volts to the alternator.....COVER THE END OF THE WIRE TO PREVENT IT FROM TOUCHING/SHORTING OUT. Did the parasitic voltage drop?
If the voltage drops off at any time....you have found the part of the harness that is causing the draw....then you must determine which component/wire is faulty.
Being a rookie......that's all I have.
WAIT FOR EXPERIENCED MEMBERS TO ADVISE YOU IN DETAIL.
Being a rookie, I would say clean the battery and terminals first to prevent a slow drain because of dirt/grime on the case.
Disconnect the positive cable from the battery and connect a voltmeter between the positive post and the positive cable terminal. Adjust the voltmeter so that it reads the amount of parasitic draw easily.
(Tape the door-jamb switches closed so they will not draw voltage...and it will be easier to enter/exit the car also
A. Remove a fuse/label it so it goes back in the correct slot.....did the parasitic draw drop to Zero?
If not continue with step A until each fuse is removed.....INCLUDING fuses in aftermarket components (radios/amplifiers/alarms/etc.)
If the parasitic voltage remains....unplug the alternator connection and check the voltmeter.
If the parasitic voltage remains.....remove the large wire from the rear of the alternator that supplies 12Volts to the alternator.....COVER THE END OF THE WIRE TO PREVENT IT FROM TOUCHING/SHORTING OUT. Did the parasitic voltage drop?
If the voltage drops off at any time....you have found the part of the harness that is causing the draw....then you must determine which component/wire is faulty.
Being a rookie......that's all I have.
WAIT FOR EXPERIENCED MEMBERS TO ADVISE YOU IN DETAIL.
#3
Instructor
I HATE parasitic drains. Check the date on the battery......older batteries will go dead from car alarms systems and from cell phone chargers being plugged in when not in use/etc.
Being a rookie, I would say clean the battery and terminals first to prevent a slow drain because of dirt/grime on the case.
Disconnect the positive cable from the battery and connect a voltmeter between the positive post and the positive cable terminal. Adjust the voltmeter so that it reads the amount of parasitic draw easily.
(Tape the door-jamb switches closed so they will not draw voltage...and it will be easier to enter/exit the car also
A. Remove a fuse/label it so it goes back in the correct slot.....did the parasitic draw drop to Zero?
If not continue with step A until each fuse is removed.....INCLUDING fuses in aftermarket components (radios/amplifiers/alarms/etc.)
If the parasitic voltage remains....unplug the alternator connection and check the voltmeter.
If the parasitic voltage remains.....remove the large wire from the rear of the alternator that supplies 12Volts to the alternator.....COVER THE END OF THE WIRE TO PREVENT IT FROM TOUCHING/SHORTING OUT. Did the parasitic voltage drop?
If the voltage drops off at any time....you have found the part of the harness that is causing the draw....then you must determine which component/wire is faulty.
Being a rookie......that's all I have.
WAIT FOR EXPERIENCED MEMBERS TO ADVISE YOU IN DETAIL.
Being a rookie, I would say clean the battery and terminals first to prevent a slow drain because of dirt/grime on the case.
Disconnect the positive cable from the battery and connect a voltmeter between the positive post and the positive cable terminal. Adjust the voltmeter so that it reads the amount of parasitic draw easily.
(Tape the door-jamb switches closed so they will not draw voltage...and it will be easier to enter/exit the car also
A. Remove a fuse/label it so it goes back in the correct slot.....did the parasitic draw drop to Zero?
If not continue with step A until each fuse is removed.....INCLUDING fuses in aftermarket components (radios/amplifiers/alarms/etc.)
If the parasitic voltage remains....unplug the alternator connection and check the voltmeter.
If the parasitic voltage remains.....remove the large wire from the rear of the alternator that supplies 12Volts to the alternator.....COVER THE END OF THE WIRE TO PREVENT IT FROM TOUCHING/SHORTING OUT. Did the parasitic voltage drop?
If the voltage drops off at any time....you have found the part of the harness that is causing the draw....then you must determine which component/wire is faulty.
Being a rookie......that's all I have.
WAIT FOR EXPERIENCED MEMBERS TO ADVISE YOU IN DETAIL.
#4
Le Mans Master
For me, my '72's glove box door doesn't push the pin down far enough without weight on the glovebox door, so it drains my battery. I too have a PD, but it is either from my front turn signals or my rear turn signals. Best of luck with the fix.
#5
Team Owner
With the 1968 model year, 93.4% of battery drain issues are caused by the windshield wiper system. Now i know 1968 is unique and many of the issues were corrected for the 1969 model year, but wipers are always my prime suspect when it comes to battery drain. Cripes, in 68 the system was designed to drain your battery if you left the "wiper freeze" switch in the on/frozen position.