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Wonder if it could be repaired? I've heard of some who go to extreme lengths to save the original block.
It wasn't worth it to me as I would rather spend the money on other items. If "numbers matching" was important to me I would have just restamped the existing block as I could have done that for about $500.
I was lucky in one way and that is most the original parts (intake, heads, distributor) were swapped to the new block. But items that wear (water pump, engine mounts, clutch, fan clutch) were all replaced when the engine was out of the car.
Sometimes I wonder how much that $500 dollar investment would bring on the other end, but that's not how I roll, but it's easy to see why folks do it.
There is a guy that is parting out a 69 on the c3 parts section. He says its a numbers matching engine and transmission. Could fit the bill on your dates needed. The post is listed about selling an ecklers front clip. I am in the process of putting together a period correct 427/390 for my 69. It mostly just for the fun of the hunt for parts. It actually pretty easy to find what you need, but something's are pretty expensive.
Sometimes I wonder how much that $500 dollar investment would bring on the other end, but that's not how I roll, but it's easy to see why folks do it.
Probably zero as it would be picked out as a fake pretty quickly. Most are. Reproducing the pad surface correctly plus both sets of numbers costs a lot more than $500 and still runs the chance of getting caught.
Probably zero as it would be picked out as a fake pretty quickly. Most are. Reproducing the pad surface correctly plus both sets of numbers costs a lot more than $500 and still runs the chance of getting caught.
You would only get "caught" if you considered it wrong to begin with, which many don't. It would also depend on what you advertised and claimed....
And my next question is what percentage of C3 buyers do you think really understand items like mill marks on the pad surface? My personal guess is it would be less that 25% and that is being generous.
Heck.... 90% of the for sale ads are a lie in the first paragraph, or do you really believe nearly every C3 sold really has the original mileage noted on the odometer. I really don't see where there is a difference in the mileage or numbers match claim, it's buyer beware.
Heck.... 90% of the for sale ads are a lie in the first paragraph, or do you really believe nearly every C3 sold really has the original mileage noted on the odometer. I really don't see where there is a difference in the mileage or numbers match claim, it's buyer beware.
Your mileage may vary....
Rolling back an odometer is a criminal act. So is restamping a pad and advertising it as an original.
I have a non-numbers-matching late 69. It has a Chevy crate 350 HO, a 1980 Quadrajet, a composite leaf spring and probably other "upgrades". (Just bought a '74 Tilt/Tele and when it's fully checked out, I will want to trade for a 69. I plan on converting to power windows too.)
I go back and forth as to whether I should just go ahead and "Foosify" the car or if I should try to return it to originality.
What would be the chances of me finding the original block somewhere? Is it a pointless unicorn hunt? If the original block is now machine screws and rebar, is "numbers-matching" completely out of the question or is there a range of 1969 blocks that would be unquestionably OK when installed?
Thanks,
Chris
My advice.
At this point it is daily driver .make it.. Reliable , fun and fast. Finish it off that way and enjoy the car. How many people will even know or care if the engine is the original as your tooling down the road? None. ....so it's really all about you. I could care less if I see your car going down the road with none original parts, it's just a cool vintage vette.....I'll like it period , correct motor or not.
If the "original survivor with correct born with drive train " obsession hits you .....or is important ...then start fresh with another corvette.....one worth sinking time and money to that end.
People need to understand their own expectations ....before ever buying any car.
Your car is FOR YOU ....not us .
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Nov 14, 2014 at 03:17 PM.
MY 69 is a good example- the original L-89 spun a main bearing and was replaced under warranty with an L-88. (worked at the dealer back then) The cam broke on that one in 1975. Bought an LS-7 over the parts counter and put that in.
Problem is, I don't have the build sheet or window sticker, and the dealer is long since gone.
I KNOW that's how it was built- I'm the 3rd owner and have known the car since the 2nd owner bought in it 1971. But with no documentation to back it, it's another 69 Corvette. So I'm building a new and improved BB for it. And doing it my way.
Wonder if it could be repaired? I've heard of some who go to extreme lengths to save the original block.
I'm a 409 "W" engine guy as well, and a bunch of those 425/409 blocks cracked/froze,windowed, etc...
Mine is an original '63 SS 425/409 that has been welded and is correct in every way including the exhaust manifolds, distributor, carbs, intake, stock bore and crank, yada, yada. Yes, it's not perfect, but it's acceptible as the real deal. So, i'd say yes, fix an original block if possible.