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I pulled my radiator, fan, and shroud. Putting a dual spal fan kit on my DeWitt radiator.
I can't wait until my 68 is ready for the Radiator to go in. Dewitt's is fairly local and I am planning on using their big block manual kit with fans on my build. Will probably jump on their typical January 15% off sale and pick up to save on shipping.
Finally starting to go back together. My buddy Carl has been doing the work, and nice work it is! The car was very far apart, only thing not done was taking the body off and removing the differential. Carl fixed NUMEROUS fiberglass issues, some caused by the driver side half shaft coming loose (before I bought it) and others caused by sins of previous owners over the past 48 years.
Rebuilt trailing arms
Rebuilt front suspension
Engine compartment, frame and suspension cleaned and painted
All new brakes to include all new bearings/seals drilled and slotted rotors and e-brake
All new suspension bushings, tie rods, pitman, idler
Several new wiring looms and vacuum hose
New under floor shields
New carpet over dyna mat heat and sound shield
Rebuilt original 427 with roller top end and correct aluminum intake
Rebuilt original 4 speed trans
All new u-joints for drive and half shafts (one half shaft replaced)
Upgrades:
Tilt/tele steering wheel
Power brakes
HEI distributor
The first three pics are just after engine removal so you can see the difference between then and now.
I drove her to work for the first meeting of the campus car club. The lug stud replacement worked out. Driving home in a black car with no AC on a HOT humid day was not favorite, but a bad day in a C3 is still better than than the alternative.
Took delivery of a Bow Tie Overdrives 200-4R Level 3 for my '77 this afternoon.
I wish this wasn't the hottest weekend of the year in Jackson, Mississippi.
Took delivery of a Bow Tie Overdrives 200-4R Level 3 for my '77 this afternoon.
I wish this wasn't the hottest weekend of the year in Jackson, Mississippi.
Congrats! It looks sweet. I need to understand this whole 700R4 vs. 200R4 thing before I decide what to put behind my (to be built) 383.
Congrats! It looks sweet. I need to understand this whole 700R4 vs. 200R4 thing before I decide what to put behind my (to be built) 383.
I chose the 200-4R because it is a practically direct swap for the TH-350 that was originally in the car. This means no messing with the driveshaft length, etc. I did spring for their tubular cross member because my original was really beat up - It looked like Bo & Luke Duke may have jumped it back in the day.
Also, my existing transmission cooler lines, which are practically, new can be used with minor tweaks at the transmission end.
I chose the 200-4R because it is a practically direct swap for the TH-350 that was originally in the car. This means no messing with the driveshaft length, etc. I did spring for their tubular cross member because my original was really beat up - It looked like Bo & Luke Duke may have jumped it back in the day.
Also, my existing transmission cooler lines, which are practically, new can be used with minor tweaks at the transmission end.
Just did the 200 4R swap. My install went so much smoother than expected. I have 3:54 gears in my '81. The swap made a world of difference.
Enjoy
Today I finished installing my Spal dual fans on my Dewitt's radiator.
Last edited by Street Rat; 07-23-2017 at 11:52 AM.
Just did the 200 4R swap. My install went so much smoother than expected. I have 3:54 gears in my '81. The swap made a world of difference.
Enjoy
Today I finished installing my Spal dual fans on my Dewitt's radiator.
Thanks!
I'm taking it kinda slow since it's so hot in my shop right now.
I just finished installing a Derale transmission cooler and plumbed it into the existing lines.
I also added 4 rubber flaps to my baking pan fan shroud to let air through when the car is moving.
After spending the last 2 years restoring parts for my 68 nut and bolt restoration, I pulled pretty much everything out of the garage and cleaned it. I was amazing how dirty my new garage was. All the sand blasting, grinding, buffing, painting and all the other tasks involved. The day was beautiful and I took advantage of it. I have reassembled the chassis for the most part and working on the drive train. I am rebuilding the differential than the 4 speed and motor.
Played with my polisher.
Also swapped the pass seat for the driver seat to hold me until I can recover them, gave me an opportunity to give the carpet a good vacuuming.
Dropped a caliper on the toe next to my big toe on the left foot. Doc told me no fix for broken toe. Advice was to get a grip, man up and suffer in silence. You would think being a total doofus was suffrage enough, but apparently not. Looking now for steel toed flip-flops.
Dropped a caliper on the toe next to my big toe on the left foot. Doc told me no fix for broken toe. Advice was to get a grip, man up and suffer in silence. You would think being a total doofus was suffrage enough, but apparently not. Looking now for steel toed flip-flops.
Originally Posted by shok
Yeah I think when mine are due for a rebuild I will just go to the lighter wilwoods.
HOWEVER- if you go with the 6 piston -you'll still break your toe(s)!!!
OK-
Today since I was messing with fiberglass rebuilding my Cupola -
I decided to mess with my hood- LOT of ideas but nothing has really jumped at me.
Already has a big hole it it- so I decided to cut more-
Flipped the piece over-and fiberglassed it in- Did I say how much I like working with the foil 3M tape- as fiberglass doesn't stick to it and it's strong enough to hold pieces together...
From the top-
On the car-
Now the next thoughts-
the vents- and mold them into the raised part of the hood...
Or the tinted glass- used a back light on the pass side to see the Velocity stacks... Either way- the air filter will be mounted in the hood- right behind the scoop...
I finally got time to start the front end rebuild....Bought the parts two years ago. So far I managed the get the passanger side upper arm done and back on, the lower cleaned and painted. Wet weekend, so paint drying takes a while.
One thing I have to mention. I rebuilt this whole front end about twenty years, and 130,000 miles ago. Used poly bushings then. The upper bushings needed replaced, but the lowers still looked fine. They twisted right out of the shells with a set of channel locks, and I used a threaded rod with a nut and washer to pull the new bushings in. Way easier then the rubber bushings for sure. Outer shells still look like new, so I did not replace them.
Last edited by The Money Pit; 07-24-2017 at 09:37 AM.
I finally got time to start the front end rebuild....Bought the parts two years ago. So far I managed the get the passanger side upper arm done and back on, the lower cleaned and painted. Wet weekend, so paint drying takes a while.
One thing I have to mention. I rebuilt this whole front end about twenty years, and 130,000 miles ago. Used poly bushings then. The upper bushings needed replaced, but the lowers still looked fine. They twisted right out of the shells with a set of channel locks, and I used a threaded rod with a nut and washer to pull the new bushings in. Way easier then the rubber bushings for sure. Outer shells still look like new, so I did not replace them.
One thing I have to mention. I rebuilt this whole front end about twenty years, and 130,000 miles ago. Used poly bushings then. The upper bushings needed replaced, but the lowers still looked fine. They twisted right out of the shells with a set of channel locks, and I used a threaded rod with a nut and washer to pull the new bushings in. Way easier then the rubber bushings for sure. Outer shells still look like new, so I did not replace them.
on the poly. My adjustable struts with poly are still serviceable after 20+ years.
Out with the old! Must have been a core shift in the block casting. It was bored .030 over in a rebuild 2000 miles ago. Result, crack in the #4 cylinder wall. Water started leaking into the oil pan, I caught it fairly early. The cylinder wall was getting ready to blow a 2 sq in hole!
After much thought, decided to keep with the old school gen 1 sbc. Im having a dart shp 427 sbc being built. Almost went LS. They are nice, have 1 in my Camaro. But the new engine will have a conservative 500 hp with about the same in torque. Plus its 1/2 the cost of doing the LS 3 swap I wanted to do.
Out with the old! Must have been a core shift in the block casting. It was bored .030 over in a rebuild 2000 miles ago. Result, crack in the #4 cylinder wall. Water started leaking into the oil pan, I caught it fairly early. The cylinder wall was getting ready to blow a 2 sq in hole!
Man what a bummer...but sounds like you are taking lemons and making lemonade!!!
Man what a bummer...but sounds like you are taking lemons and making lemonade!!!
Always! Could have done without this right now, but I had been contemplating more power recently. The new block should last for as long as I own the car.
07-20-2017, 02:46 PM
