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The heater cable had pulled out of the retainer clamp and so the sheathing was moving and not letting the cable actually move the heater door. I glued the sheathing, pushed it into the clamp, and then tied the clamp upstream with some tie wraps and back to the control housing, so the sheathing won't pull loose. It is a bit Bubba, but it is under where no one will see it ever until after I'm dead.
And the new cables don't look like the originals. They are simply metal clamps over the cable.
The heat has been making the console plate a bit hot, so I am insulating the tunnel. I didn't when I put the carpet in, since I ran out of the roll. I didn't want to buy an entire roll for a few feet of area, but have decided I need to.
I also ran into this. There are four cut wires and they are not capped off, but bare. There are two red (?)(could be orange), a white (yellow?), and a blue wires. I can't find them on the wiring diagram in my assembly manual.
Anyone have any idea what they go to? This is a 1968 big block with C60 air, so I wonder if the harness had something that wasn't needed but I don't see the instructions saying to cut these off.
Looks good
After contemplating the adjustments of the door windows and careful consideration from forum members I was able to get it close enough to say good, install door panel, pat myself on the back.
Then I find the window is not done with me.
Start over, the window hit the body edge. I must be getting closer, I keep getting further along.
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 12-24-2017 at 12:12 PM.
There are some things that just don't work out when we try to do them. At that time and after a few try's I'll drive it down and have a pro do the adjustments.
The heater cable had pulled out of the retainer clamp and so the sheathing was moving and not letting the cable actually move the heater door. I glued the sheathing, pushed it into the clamp, and then tied the clamp upstream with some tie wraps and back to the control housing, so the sheathing won't pull loose. It is a bit Bubba, but it is under where no one will see it ever until after I'm dead.
And the new cables don't look like the originals. They are simply metal clamps over the cable.
The heat has been making the console plate a bit hot, so I am insulating the tunnel. I didn't when I put the carpet in, since I ran out of the roll. I didn't want to buy an entire roll for a few feet of area, but have decided I need to.
I also ran into this. There are four cut wires and they are not capped off, but bare. There are two red (?)(could be orange), a white (yellow?), and a blue wires. I can't find them on the wiring diagram in my assembly manual.
Anyone have any idea what they go to? This is a 1968 big block with C60 air, so I wonder if the harness had something that wasn't needed but I don't see the instructions saying to cut these off.
Wow! You're going all in! Good luck! Wish I had the info you need for those wires, but I'm just learning about the C3 now.
So when I picked up my stingray from the transporter, the truck driver thought it was a good idea to undue the radio antenna from the base (allowing it to fall down into the body) so he could load it on the top rack of his inclosed trailer. For whatever reason, he didn't just remove the antenna itself (which would of been so much easier to remove and reinstall).
ANYWAYS! It ended up being a blessing in disguise. When I got up under to try and reinstall it, I noticed that the underside base plate was trashed and had be rigged up to work. It was making it impossible to reinstall. So I ordered a new base plate, ground connector and antenna since the original was bent a little at the top and missing the ball at the end.
While installing all the new stuff I noticed that the original antenna fit better then the new one. So I decided to customize the antenna by shorting it and applying the ball from the new one on to the old one.
Radio still has great reception (heck it did pretty good even without the antenna connected).
I'm happy with how it turned out, looks original, works, but isn't a mile high.
There are some things that just don't work out when we try to do them. At that time and after a few try's I'll drive it down and have a pro do the adjustments.
Wouldn't that be nice. What I have found so far is it is the after market window trim on the front post. The bottom of the window is adjusted all the way in to move the top of it out to slid in the slot. BUT when you look at the alignment you can see where the metal frame of the channel is pinch in not allowing the window to slide in the channel but ride out side of it. causing the window glass to not slid up the last 3". if I close the door with window up it seats just fine. And I am not so sure about the word PRO....
Wouldn't that be nice. And I am not so sure about the word PRO....
Pro as in body shop, a good one who adjusts frame-less windows on a daily basis. I know I've been in several friends cars that will tell you " you'll have to crack the door open to get the window up all the way"
Pro as in body shop, a good one who adjusts frame-less windows on a daily basis. I know I've been in several friends cars that will tell you " you'll have to crack the door open to get the window up all the way"
NO..I understood "Pro" I live out side of Carson City NV. A body shop of that caliber ?????? pickings are slim.....I had to go to Gardnerville, NV. to find a shop that Knew the car and what I was talking about with the A/C...When I needed to get the wheel alignment done finding a shop with the old equipment took awhile and it still drifts to the left. I've had pro's work on cars only to redo it because they took short cuts that cost me more to fix. I found a guy who said he could adjust the windows at $200 per window. While talking to him and accepting his business card he told me he was an ex-con from the NV system, That's where I worked 22.5 yr's. He tossed names of inmates around like I and he were buddies. A check of his card reveled NO Buss. Lic #, the Association he was to belong to as a master tech. did not list him as a member. PRO's ???? it's the area I live in.
thanks for the input.....
DB
NO..I understood "Pro" I live out side of Carson City NV. A body shop of that caliber ?????? pickings are slim.....I had to go to Gardnerville, NV. to find a shop that Knew the car and what I was talking about with the A/C...When I needed to get the wheel alignment done finding a shop with the old equipment took awhile and it still drifts to the left. I've had pro's work on cars only to redo it because they took short cuts that cost me more to fix. I found a guy who said he could adjust the windows at $200 per window. While talking to him and accepting his business card he told me he was an ex-con from the NV system, That's where I worked 22.5 yr's. He tossed names of inmates around like I and he were buddies. A check of his card reveled NO Buss. Lic #, the Association he was to belong to as a master tech. did not list him as a member. PRO's ???? it's the area I live in.
thanks for the input.....
DB
Totally understand. I've lived in those areas as well. Sometimes it's hard to tell if they have more teeth or more brain cells.
Nice addition, welcome to the forum. Picture looks like the Ventura Keys in California.
Good eye, the car came from CA but is now in Texas....
Question for the experts: What color would the side "eggcrate" be painted the body color and have chrome on the raised area? I've seen conflicting info on this. Thanks
12-22-2017, 10:20 PM
