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Now you won't kill your battery if you leave a door open...AND when you reach under the dash -you won't leave any charred skin on the incandescent bulb!!!
Little steps- between the putting up all the Christmas stuff..
Rather than j-clips- decided rivnuts would work better- and used stainless steel screws-
Still undecided if I want to black out the edges as the factory did...
The gas tank-cap mod is done!!!
No leaks at the sender-will test the pumps today-
New filler welded to the original one- then powdercoated
Np cap removal needed- no more lost gas caps- or where do i put it when filling up?!!!
Just where I wanted it- high enough so it hopefully eliminates and water getting in- have the bottom drain connected like the factory- and have an overflow one drilled as well.
Finished look- subtle V12 emblem....
Richard, the gas filler is awesome. Totally cool not having to grab a micro fiber towel from behind the seat for the gas cap. I would love to see guys face when they see the Pentastar on the bottom. Rivnuts look good too. Love the silver paint color, one of my favorites. I had a silver ‘73 914, it was a bad A autocross car, drove it like I stole it, won a bunch of PCA autocross events. I enjoyed it for years, but it was no C3.
Eddy
Last edited by 74_stingray; 12-31-2018 at 07:50 PM.
Nice! Which model is it? Bolted right up? No modifications needed?
The part number is RET36 BK 2S. I bought it from Summit for $239.00
It will directly bolt up with no adaptor BUT the bolt holes are 15 degrees off from the factory steering wheel holes. I just found it easier to drill new holes than getting an alignment.
You will also have to drill the slots for the horn button screws( I used a Dremel) although the wheel comes with a good looking MOMO horn button.
The part number is RET36 BK 2S. I bought it from Summit for $239.00
It will directly bolt up with no adaptor BUT the bolt holes are 15 degrees off from the factory steering wheel holes. I just found it easier to drill new holes than getting an alignment.
You will also have to drill the slots for the horn button screws( I used a Dremel) although the wheel comes with a good looking MOMO horn button.
Can we get an angled view for the full effect please?
Well... i didnt plan on this buuuut... i tore into it with both feet/hands after finding several issues, mainly the alignment of the shifter console.
Now ive found many issues to fix, BUT i now know why the a/c sucked before. Main cause being the horrid little mouse made a nest in the heat/ac divider AND chewed both vac lines to the actuator in half
also what the heck is the ductwork doing separated from the main body of the duct to the defroster...
also found only 2 of the 8 clips on the dash cap were engaged, definitely explains why the dash was loose and out of alignment
weird how the rest of the car has been untouched, but behind the dash is a nightmare
Pulled the cover off, and fired it up.
Let it get up to temp and blew by a C7 coming out of a curve at Sonoma Raceway.
All while bench racing in the garage.
Pulled the cover off, and fired it up.
Let it get up to temp and blew by a C7 coming out of a curve at Sonoma Raceway.
All while bench racing in the garage.
Put in a removable rear window assembly from a 68 into my 75. Never seen it done. So far so good. Now I am researching buying the the rubber to complete the job. Prior to putting in the 68 assembly I just made my own removable version with the stock 75 glass. It worked well too.
Put in a removable rear window assembly from a 68 into my 75. Never seen it done. So far so good. Now I am researching buying the the rubber to complete the job. Prior to putting in the 68 assembly I just made my own removable version with the stock 75 glass. It worked well too.
I'm collecting the parts to do this also, there are several threads here where others have done it, they all claim it's a great mod!
Hey 75, Until you get all the parts, if you want to go vent thru for a while try this. I just removed my old glass, cleaned up the glue from the frame and re-installed the glass with four screws that I made by adapting some screw ****. I didn't drill any holes. To protect the glass I used some door guard beading around the entire edge of the glass. Two minutes in and out. It wasn't waterproof because I didn't go that far with weatherstripping etc. But, it worked well. GM never should have abandoned the removable glass. It is a much better drive without the glass.
12-31-2018, 05:21 PM
Progress
