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After timing and adjusting the carbs, I took it for a 40 mile ride, what I found is, the rpm has increased instead of returning to idle speed when the throttle is not depressed. I believe the cause is my using a fuel pump with out a pressure return line. Causing the excess pressure to bleed into the carb and keep the rpms up while the throttle is released. Ideal rpm set at about 1K, increases to 15-20K. The next thing I played with was the manual door crank window adjustment (for the umpteenth time) I can get the back window edge to seal in the channel and about half way toward the wind shield it begins to gap open about 1/8" not fitting in the channel. I have loosened all the nut & bolts, pulled everything up, retightened everything, and still a gap. All plastic wheels were replaced. the metal channels were in good shape ( NOT bent or rusted out ) so no need to replace them.
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 11-04-2017 at 04:46 PM.
I was looking for something to replace the seatbelt light and push button then ended up completely reconfiguring it-
The camera really doesn't do it justice-
Battery (Alt light)
Door ajar pic ( I know it needs to be straightened...)
Fan pic- will be able to manually switch on fans via the clock set button- one push turns on one fan-push again-turns on the second one. Push and hold for three seconds and it turns them off.
Headlight pic( Headlight doors)
Here's what I used- actually nice aluminum housings-
Until recently I was ignorant to the degree of flexing these vettes have. I was in the home stretch of adding glass and getting my door gaps better than factory. But...my car was on jack stands. Big mistake. So then I put the wheels/tires back on and discovered my problem. Discovering the flex and thinking about my situation I realized I still had a problem. I have 4 tires and 3 different sizes.
Yesterday I got out the stock wheels I picked up a month ago to see if the old tires on them would hold air. I switched out the wheels/tires (orig wheels I bought all had 235/75 15s) so today I'm bolting my doors back on to see where I'm at. Also, yesterday I rechecked my rear wheel alignment because a few weeks ago work came up and I had to quit before I was satisfied. I was pretty sure the drivers side was good and sure enough it was absolutely perfect. The passenger side was off slightly (as expected). All I had to do was move one shim from inside to outside and now the passenger side looks as good as the drivers.
With 4 decent, same sized tires on there I see I need to revisit the rear camber. Last time I tried to adjust that I would jack the rear, adjust, lower, then roll and measure. Lots of trial and error. This next time I think I'll put a rolling floor jack under each rear rotor, adjust, bounce the car, measure and see if that is any easier/quicker.
Cleaning car accidentally discovered a better way to polish the wheels
I was rushing to finish washing the Vette because the weather was deteriorating. The TT2's needed a polish so I took to them with a powerball mounted in the battery drill. One of the wheels had some water on out and I found that when this mixed with the polish everything worked much better and the shine came up a lot quicker and easier so I sprayed all of the wheels with water before polishing. Doing it this way I didn't have to finish them with a cloth, just respray with water and then blow this off with the air line. Polish I use is called Autosol that comes in a tube like toothpaste.
There's a lot to do on my car, but the first order of business was to fix the hood latch cables. I just installed the first cable that goes from the handle to the drivers side latch, and now I am looking for the cable that goes between the two latches...
Then maybe tomorrow I can stare at the engine bay!
Not too much today, just trying to figure out why, after installing a new fuel injection system, the engine won't "stay" running after it fires up. Probably just a "tune" issue.
Over the weekend changed valve covers. I think they are B&M after merging with Hi-Tek. Very heavy aluminum. Could use some polishing but will do that later. I do get some static for "not original" (i.e. sidepipes, wheels, seats, radio, paint, etc, etc) but if you can't do stuff to your car, what's the point? Hope y'all had a great weekend, Bill
BTW, the water in the radiator isn't original either.
Over the weekend changed valve covers. I think they are B&M after merging with Hi-Tek. Very heavy aluminum. Could use some polishing but will do that later. I do get some static for "not original" (i.e. sidepipes, wheels, seats, radio, paint, etc, etc) but if you can't do stuff to your car, what's the point? Hope y'all had a great weekend, Bill
BTW, the water in the radiator isn't original either.
Looks nice and for the "not original" crowd my reply is generally " I don't remember you paying for any of this and if you don't like it , tough s..t."
This is an on going project. Started several weeks ago. I originally tried to save a few bucks and bought a used dash from a guy that advertised it on the forum. After prepping I dyed the dash and it looked very nice, however if it touched almost anything the dye came off. Also discovered while fitting the headlight switch the dash was actually a oem dash with a cap glued on. The thickness of the two parts made it impossible to fit all of the accessories. SOO back to plan A which was to bite the bullet and buy a new correct color dash. It looks terrific, however nothing fits with out a lot of tedious alterations and fabrication. Patience is definitely a virtue if you choose to do this. My car is a 79. I am posting a few pictures to show my progress. It took me all day yesterday to install my speakers.
Of course you can imagine what getting the harnesses hooked up to all the switches, radio, lights, etc. etc. Keep your fingers crossed for me and I will up date later.
11-04-2017, 04:38 PM
